Posts by jonzjeepyj

Her lights were in the auto position 25 min after the accident when the officer checked them for the
first time when he wrote his report. She had time to switch them in the auto position while she waited
25 min, sitting in her ca, waiting for the officer to show up and take his report.

I saw her on impact without lights, She sat in the intersection after the crash without lights and when
they towed the vehicle away, the vehicle did not have lights.

He also said he tried to check to see if there were black marks on the lenses of the headlights from the
impact blowing out the bulbs. He said that the collision shattered both headlamp lenses and he could
not definitively tell if her headlights were on.

I only have to convince the judge of 50% liability to have all my damages paid. I never would have turned
if she was visible with her lights on. There is defiantly room for question and that's all I need to have all my
damages paid for.

If need be, I can layer up, I will be fighting the ticket and seeking all damages for my jeep and myself.

[size=medium]BFrank Wrote:[/size][size=medium]You were at fault here? Even without collision coverage if she was at fault or even partly at fault you should be able to get some damages from her insurance company.

This is true. If she is at fault I will get 100% of all my damages recovered for my Jeep

In Delaware, if you are 50% at fault or less and your total damages are less then the other drivers total damagesthen the other drivers insurance will pay out 100% of all your damage. I know my totaled Jeep's damages of 5000 is a lot less then her 2011, ToyotaRav-4 that was totaled.[/size]

[size=medium]Here is the situation . . . . .

[/size][size=medium]At 4:41 pm it was at dusk and pretty dark. She was coming Eastbound on Rt 4 at old Churchman's Rd. I was traveling Westbound and was waiting to turn left onto Old Churchman's rode at a green light, not a green arrow. Traveling Eastbound was a white Bronco with it's light on and turn signal on to turn left. I waited until it approached closer to the intersection to make sure that it was definitely turning left. It slowed down ad started to turn left in front of me. Since I was also turning left, we would turn in front of each other. I looked behind the Bronco and all was clear for 1/2 mile up the road to the next light at the entrance to Delaware Park. I started to turn and crossed my lane, the median area, the first lane of the Eastbound traffic, turning in front of the Bronco and started into the 2nd lane when she had pulled out of the Bronco's blind spot, Without her lights on. I slammed on the brakes and she nailed me and spun me 1 1/2 times. We came to a stop and I looked up and she was sitting in the middle of the intersection still without any lights on. I pulled my flashers to protect her from being hit again as she sat there for 18 minutes before the rescue team got there.I told the police that she did not have her lights on. He wrote the report and gave me a ticket for failure to yield to oncoming traffic, an 89.00 dollar ticket. The ticket does not admit guilt. I think if I can plead my case of her driving without her lights onthen the Judge might determine 50% fault which would open the window for me to gain damages. [/size]

[size=medium]The trooper did check the position of her auto light switch and it was in the auto position. I went back the next day on Saturday evening and sat from 4:35 to 4:50 to see what the light conditions were. I noticed that 1 out of 10 vehicles did not have their headlights on. At that time right before dusk, her sensor probably did not pick up that it was quite dark enough to turn her headlights on. Most likely in the next few minutes it would have come on. [/size]

[size=medium]Remember that I only have to prove her to e 50% guilty to claim 100% of my damages.

[/size]

[color=rgb(255, 102, 0)][size=2.65em]Comprehensive [/size][/color]

[size=1.45em]Comprehensive Insurance covers all types of damage and loss including:[/size]
[size=1.45em]— Fire
[/size][size=1.45em]— Theft
— Vandalism or malicious damage
— Riot
— Flood
— Earthquake or Explosion
— Hail
— Windstorm
— Falling or Flying Objects
— Damage Due to Contact with a Bird or Animal
— Windshield Damage[/size]

[color=rgb(255, 102, 0)][size=2.65em]Collision Insurance Coverage [/size][/color]

[size=1.45em]Auto Insurance that covers the damages of the car resulting from a collision
with another car or object. Collision coverage reimburses you for the repairs
or replacement costs of your car after an accident.[/size]

[color=rgb(255, 102, 0)][size=2.65em]Bodily Injury Liability Insurance [/size][/color][size=x-large]100,000 / 300,00 / 100,000[/size]

[size=1.45em]BI is an Auto coverage type, which covers the medical costs of injury you or members of [/size]
[size=1.45em]your family might cause to other people in an accident such as loss of income for the party [/size]
[size=1.45em]you injure and costs of your legal defense. Bodily Injury Liability covers injury to people [/size]
[size=1.45em]resulting from an accident which you are at fault for, not damage to your car or injuries to [/size]
[size=1.45em]passengers in your car. It does not pay for your own injuries or the ones of your spouse or [/size]
[size=1.45em]other family members either. [/size]

[size=2em]I had BI/Liability on both vehicles 100,000 / 300,000 / 100,00[/size]
[size=2em]with collision and comprehensive added on the suburban[/size]

sorry, got distracted while typing.

Rear Dana-35 - Corrected the add

I have a number in my head that I want for the whole thing.
If your interested, shoot me some offers.

I know I can get a whole lot more parting it out but I'm not
sure if I want to take the time.

I found out that you can't split collision coverage. If you have it on both vehicles then you have to
have the same limits. When they said that I could not split coverage's, that is what they meant. When
I was adding coverage on my Jeep 3 years ago, this is what they told me and I took it to mean that I
had to have full coverage on both vehicles. They say I only have liability ins on the Jeep, I will pull my
policy and double check. My collision ins is 100,000 / 300,000 / 100,000 on our family suburban.

Tires are a set of 5 American Racing Outlaw II rims 10x15
with a full matching set of BFG TA/KO's 35x12.5x15's with 80% tread left. $600.00

Center Console and Soundbar are both available. $75.00 for both

Windshield is in good condition with very minor paint bubbles at bottom $75.00

Winch is an Atlas 13,000 lb roller fairlead - 2 remotes - mounting plate $500.00

48" farm jack $40.00

Hard top with roof basket $50.00

Hard doors $300.00

Rear Dana-35 with Yukon 4.88 ring and pinion installed $175.00

Teraflex High Steer arm with extended drag link and tie rod, 4" drop pitman arm $200.00

Family Style Rollbar $75.00

2 piece spice soft doors (round corner) - Tonneau cover - Family style bikini top $175.00 set

5" BDS lift springs (4) $180.00

5" Lift shocks BDS (3) $40.00

Just a start from the questions.

[size=4]I will post up all parts with prices when it's cleared from the insurance company.[/size]
[size=4]Wanted to generate interest first.[/size]

[size=4]Please post interest in any parts. When the insurance [/size]
[size=4]companies finalize, I'll start the parting process. [/size]

[size=1.45em]I finalized the swap Late Monday night, I was hit on Friday evening[/size]

[size=3.95em]4 Days[/size]

[size=1.45em]
Well if you haven't heard, I was in an accident a week ago. I was hit on
Dec 2nd on Rt-4 at 4:41PM. A lady without her headlights on, hit me at
dusk. She wasn't visible to me as I made a left hand turn. The Jeep is
totaled. The whole front of the frame is twisted. At least I was not hurt
and neither was the other driver

This was after I spent over a week at Aaron's garage, 1800 dollars and
many late nights helping Aaron put a 4.0L AX-15 in her. I'm pissed off to
say the least. I might as well have flushed that money right down the toilet.
By By ! !

I was told you can't split insurance on two vehicles on the same policy
meaning you have to have the same coverage on both vehicles. I thought
I had full coverageon the Jeep. Now that they may have to pay out they
are saying Nope. I know when the insurance company totals it, it will be
worth 1/4 of the actual value. I will try to buy it back to part it out. In
Delaware, if you . . .

are 50% at fault or less
your total damages are less then the other drivers total damages
the other drivers insurance will pay your vehicle out
even if you only have liability insurance.[/size]
[size=1.45em]
This is my only chance to get a payout. [/size]
[size=1.45em]
It's definitely not drivable or fixable. I don't have the money to get another
Jeep to swap over any parts so the unthinkable is on the table, she is being
parted out. I will be posting up what's available and prices for the parts when
the insurance companies decided what is going on. All parts are First come,
First served.

I just landed a new job and have no wheels to get to work. The wife and I
are sharing the family vehicle so it's a real inconvenience. My cell phone was
my work phone which they took back. I no longer have a cell until I start my
new job on Thursday. They will be giving me a new work phone once I start.
Looks like at this point I will be out of commission for quite awhile. I need to
concentrate on my new Job and finding a new DD.

I will be posting up lots of parts for sale, soon, when the insurance [/size]
[size=1.45em]companies finalize the accident.

jonzjeepyj
John Hewitt

[/size]

Nick, got your text. Dropped phone and snapped in two. What did you need?

OK,

Let me say this, yes I plan on going 1 tons in the future as well as SOA but my intentions were never to
do this with a 2.5L motor. At this stage of my build, I using my rig as primarily a street rig while I build
so that I may also enjoy it on the road. It will take me quite some time to gather the parts needed to
accomplish my goal. So while the build is in progress, I will run my little 2.5L to get me around. Sorta
like rollers on a axle for a garage build. Included in my future build is also a Motor swap. I'm not sure
what yet as I haven't gotten to that stage. I don't plan on putting these under my YJ until .....

1) I have gathered all parts needed. **( Axles, Motor, Tranny, T-Case )**
2) I have built my Dana 60's with gearing, lockers and a High Steer kit.
3) Upgraded my Motor, Tranny and Transfer Case **( Not sure what Yet )**

I was looking at this warn kit since I have upgraded to the TJ axles with the
larger U-Joints already.

[img alt=Jeep Wrangler/Cherokee premium hub conversion with 297x, U-Joints - Mile Marker #33-50020]http://store.4wheelingplus.com/images/MM-Jeep-Manual-Hub-Conv-tn.jpg[/img]

Product ID: 33-50010
Manufacturer: Mile Marker
Jeep Wrangler/Cherokee premium hub conversion with 297x, U-Joints
Mile Marker #33-50020
List Price: $1,027.53 Price: $699.95


I do not plan on wheeling this thing until I reach my goal. I working on my wife to replace my Chevy
2500HD that I sold to pay off bills. At that time My YJ will become my Play Toy and not my DD so the
one tons, Motor, Tranny T-Case and 37's will go on and Mileage Will Not Matter. I am enjoying
building this project as much as driving it or wheeling it. I was also thinking that with the warn hub
conversion kit that is only 700.00 new and the one I found used was 300.00, would give me the benefit
of the better gas mileage while I owned it and it would also slightly increase the value of the HP Dana 30
for resale. Like I said, I know that my HPD30 with .....

HP Reverse Cut Dana 30 RP
Solid axle conversion / Eliminating the CAD
TJ axles with the larger U-Joints
Teraflex High Steer Kit
Re geared to 4.88's
Aussie Locked

Won't be hard to sell. I just wondered if anyone had good or bad experience with any hub conversion
kits. This kit also says that it's good for tires up to 33". I'm not so sure if it will work with my 35" tires
or is this a recommendation.

John

Well, I already converted my front to TJ axles and eliminated my Vac Disconnect so my entire front drive
train is locked together. With my underpowered 2.5L, under geared 4.88's and my over sized 35" tires, it
killed my MPG on the road. After doing this mod my Miles Per Tank (MPT) went from 260-265 down to
around 190. I took out my front drive shaft and it popped right back up to 260-265 MPT. I do use this
extensively on the road and would like to gain some MPG back. I'm already buying a 78 F-250 Rear Dana
60 tomorrow and will keep gathering parts for the front Dana 60 as everyone here suggested but I won't
be ready to do the swap for quite some time. My budget is slow as well as my build. I also found
someone who is parting out their front HP Dana 30 with the manual Lockout kit on it as well as a
lunchbox locker. I will be gathering parts for the better part of the year and getting my front and rear
Dana 60's set up. I know I will be able to sell my front Dana 30 with the 4.88's, TeraFlex High Steer Kit
and soon Manual locking hubs and a locker. I also know I will never get all the money back out of it but
would like to do the swap with used parts to gain some MPT back. That's 70 to 75 MPT or 5.3
gallons and at 3.40 gal, it adds up quick. It's also a PITA to keep pulling out and re installing my front
drive shaft.

Just wanted some real experience on this upgrade.

John

I know it is expensive but has anyone ever done this or had any
experience doing one. If I were able to find one at a cheep price
or a used one I just might go for it. Any experience or knowledge
besides don't spend any money on a Dana 30, would help.

Thanks,

John

Again, I thank everyone for their opinions. I have found a 79 F-150 HP Dana 44 for $125.00
for my front axle. I will search for either a Waggy 44 or an Explorer 8.8 for the rear.

Quote

they now make Dana 30 5.13 and 5.38 ring and pinions

I did look into the 5.38's for my YJ's 30. Yukon makes them but they are for
Standard Rotation Dana 30's only!
Not for the YJ's reverse rotation Dana 30.

I know I will never wheel my rig hard. I like to fab and build things and wanted to have a project
that my kids and I can enjoy. My YJ will be built to be driven as a daily driver so ride quality and
mpg do matter, built for sand to surf fish on the beach, capable of driving well in the snow as I
transport my medical staff during snow storms and light off road use for fun with the kids.

Quote

Did I miss where you were asked to search?

I'm speaking in general terms. When people complain about adding their opinion on subjects that
have been " beat to death " or interject " Search is your friend " or give their sarcastic responses
aren't helping us newcomers. In general terms to Turtles reference of asking the same questions
5 times and getting the same answer, I'm researching peoples different opinions and then will make
my own.

Quote

Removing the vacuum disconnect option cannot result in a drastic change like that unless something is seriously wrong with the axle.

I got a constant 265 to 275 miles per tank. I did the solid axle conversion and got 195-210 a tank.
I then took out the front drive shaft to give it a test and sure enough, it went back up to 265 to 275
per tank. When the snow started hitting a month ago or so, I put it back in to prepare for the snow
storms and back down it went. I just filled the tank tonight and drove 219 miles on 17.3 gallons. That
averages 12.6 mpg instead of my usual 275 miles on 17.5 gallons. That's 15.7 mpg. Yes it's possible
and Realistic.

I have said this before, it always kills me when someone says .....
This has been debated before
This thread is beating a dead horse
Just search, there is a lot of info on that
Search is your friend You got the same answer several times

This is an INTERACTIVE forum about jeeps. Yes, almost everything on here has been covered before.
Yes, I could just sit and search, but why do people CHAT on these forums, they want to INTERACT
with other Jeepers. They can also input there experience along with their knowledge.

Thanks for your input but if it bothers you that I'm trying to research this and wanting the same
questions answered by different people then give me your input and then let others answer. Your
input is valued but is not the only viewpoint. I want to gather all the facts that I can by as many
people as I can and then make MY decision based on what I find. I'm asking this several times wanting
different opinions, not yours over and over again. I heard what you had to say. Not everyone has
the same knowledge, facts and experiences. Each person could potentially add somthing new and
different to the conversation. If I get the same answer several times by several different then I
can conclude that it has some merit. If I get several different answers then I need to research some
more to find the truth. With no disrespect, I don't really know you at all. I don't know if everything
you say is coming from experience and facts or if it's your opinion based on nothing. See what I mean.
I just want to make sure I'm making good decisions based on facts that are collaborated by many
different people saying the same thing.

Quote from: turtle on Yesterday at 20:45:00
they now make Dana 30 5.13 and 5.38 ring and pinions

Yes they do. Yukon makes them and they are Standard Rotation. Not compatible for the Reverse
Rotation YJ Dana 30. Unless someone else makes them then these are useless.

Holy S _ _ T ! ! Why The attitude ? Let me just say, you made a great impression on a new member!

Quote

You seriously sound like you have a hard on to buy the axles...so why bother asking?

I'm trying to find out if these would be a good buy to flip to make some money.
If they are worth 300-400 bucks as a set and I can get them for 100 bucks, then
You do the math. There are plenty of people out there wanting Waggy Dana 44's
as an option for an upgrade. I just don't know what they are worth as a purchase
price or a selling price.

I understand the benefits of the Dana 44 over the Dana 30/35 set up. I'm coming
from a profit point of view. If I could purchase the set for 100 bucks and re sell them
for 300-400 for the set, it would be worth it for me. Or I might just get that Hard ON
like you said and decide to build them.

Quote

the Dana 44 has manual hubs, true, false is having any kind of effect on the gas mileage

I did the solid axle conversion from an XJ and only replaced the right side 2 piece
axle, and eliminated the Vac disconnect. This swap now has my front drive shaft,
both axles and wheels all locked together. This upgrade alone dropped my mileage
from 273 miles per tank down to 193 miles per tank. With gas at over 3 bucks a
gallon, my Jeep getting 14 mpg, the math is pretty simple. That would equate to
over 80 miles per tank or the equivalent of a 5 gallon loss or over 15 bucks a tank.
I know that not having the extra drag will make a hugh difference in my mpg and
wallet. I do use my rig as a daily driver and would like the benefits of manual lockout
hubs and YES, Better Gas Mileage.

Quote

they now make Dana 30 5.13 and 5.38 ring and pinions

I did not know this. This is great info to post up. I'll have to do some investigation
on this. I didn't think it was possible do to size restriction of the D30. Do you know
the company's that make them?

Oh, And Forget I Asked ! !

First, I went to the party last Saturday and wanted to say thanks to everyone
for welcoming me.

Everyone I have talked to has also said to stay away from the Waggy 44's as a
set up on my Jeep for a SOA upgrade.

Please give me your thoughts and reasons for this. I have been working on this
guy that has the set of waggys and I think I can get them dirt cheep. What would
be a .....
1) Great price
2) Reasonable price
3) and a high price
for these axles as a set ( front and rear Dana 44's )

If I decided that I want to go a different route and not use them, I could flip them if
I can get them for the right price. How desirable are they for an upgrade?

From what I understand about the Waggy Dana 44's, this is true .....

1) LP Dana 44 has larger stock axles over the D30 stock axles
2) LP Dana 44 has larger U-Joints over the D30's U-Joints
3) LP Dana 44 is capable of 5.33's gears unlike the maxed 4.88's in my D30
4) LP Dana 44 has manual Lockout Hubs which creates less drag and moving
parts under load which will give a little better gas mileage on the road.
5) The Dana 44 being LP, Is easier to set up for High Steer
6) I found a Set of Waggy Dana 44's for only $250.00 - W o W !

Yes the HP Dana 30 gear sets are a little stronger due to the reverse cut design
but for what I'm using this for, the benefits of the Waggy 44's far out way the
strength of the Dana 30 gear sets

I also can sell my Dana 30/35 geared to 4.88 with the D30 having a Teraflex High
Steer kit installed and the solid axle conversion done, to recoup some money back.

My next question would be what would my axle setup go for? $400.00-$600.00 ?

The main gain of the waggy 44 swap for me is to get lower gearing. I want
to be at 5.33's with my 2.5L with 35's. The Dana 30 restricts me to 4.88's
which I have already regeared to now.

turtle wrote:

Quote

HP is always preferable for rocks as you have increased drive shaft clearance...

I can completely understand and see that for SUA, but what about SOA?
It seems to me that a High Pinion Diff, SOA would increase the angle of the
front drive shaft. How could this help?