Posts by jonzjeepyj

I know High Pinion axles are preferred for clearance and it also helps to lessen
drive shaft angles for SUA setups, but what about SOA setups? I'm looking at
a set of Waggy Dana 44's that is low pinion but I'm going SOA at the same
time as my axle swap. I would think that being low pinion SOA wouldn't matter
for clearance since the axle would be lower then the diff. The low pinion Dana
44 would help lessen the drive shaft angle now that it's on top of the Axle. I
have a great deal on a set of Waggy 44's but is it worth giving up my HP Dana
30 with solid axles and a high steer kit on it for the Low Pinion Dana 44, when
my intentions are to only run 35x12.5x15 BFG TA KO's as a max tire size?

I have just about anything you will need if you want to borrow anything.
I even have a garage high hat heater that's 330,000 BTU's of output heat.
You literally put it on for about 4-5 minutes and warm your garage up to
temp. It uses propane like your grill. Your more then welcome to borrow
it or anything else you need. I will be a basketball with my son on Saturday
morning and then my son and I are going camping with the Scouts at Ashland
on Saturday afternoon until Sunday. Let me know if you want the heater or
if you need any tools.

According to Rough Country's instructions, number 14 states .....
14. Locate the provided bushings, and sleeves in 7593bag and install into the
new sway bar link. Install the new sway bar link in the lower factory location on

nuts on the upper mount.

Installed my RC 4" Lift over a year ago without any problems. No abnormal sag
or anything. I can't compare my ride quality to anything but I'm satisfied with it.
I'm sure it's not the best out there and there are better quality springs that give
a better ride but again, I satisfied with it, especially for the price.

2.5L - 5/speed definitely go with the 4.88's I re geared mine to that and bought 33's
and loved it. I have since went to 35's but can't re gear do to my Dana-30 size restriction.
4.88's are as low as you can go. With 35's, you need to be at 5.13's-to-5.33's . I will do an
axle swap next spring when I do my SOA project. Then I'll go with 5.33's all the way.

Quote

got a tom woods front shaft brand new for 150obo

Hmmmmmm. I'll give you a call.

John

I'm not getting any bad vibes I just want to upgrade to a better front drive shaft.
I have a good source in Jersey that makes custom drive shafts. They did my rear shaft
for only 225.00 to my door. I wonder what they would charge for a front shaft? Anyway,
anyone know what the cost would be to just balance my front shaft? I know it wouldn't
hurt to get it balanced anyway.

John

Do you know the cost of just a balance? It might be worth it
to look for a TJ front shaft to cut and balance instead of using my
stock YJ front shaft. That's if I can find one.

Just upgraded to an XJ passenger side 1 piece axle on my front
Dana30 in my YJ. Where in DE can I get my front drive shaft balanced?

Give Aaron Stape a PM. He is on the DeJA board and goes by AStape.
He lives off Naamans Rd. I know he is able to weld anything you want
but I'm not sure of his time schedule.

Shoot him a PM.

John

Posted by: GSE Nick

Quote

u should buy that my old d30 off of nervanarules. its a non disco 30 with a more highsteer kit. grab that and build it up over the winter with chromos and a locker.

How do I get a hold of him? What does he want for the set up?

Did it solve your Vibes?

I made a nice set out of box tubing, for my YJ, and then never used them.
I ended up going SYE and a new drive shaft. If you want the set, you can
have it for $15.00. I'm located in Bear, DE. Just PM me and let me know if
your interested.

I want to get rid of the vacuum actuator, switch to a manual cable/push button actuator up front,
upgrade the axles in the Dana 30 and add some type of locker all at the same time. At this time,
I still drive on the street a lot so give me the run down on what's what with choices.

Thanks,

John

Something to check........

Eliminate fuel delivery by pushing on the fuel inlet on fuel rail, to
see if it's charged. This looks like the valve stem on your tire. Turn
your key to the on position and then use a small screwdriver and
depress the center pin in. If it's charged it will squirt fuel.

If your pump is continually running, It sounds like it's not priming your
fuel system. This could be a hole in your pickup tube and it's sucking
air and not allowing it to prime. It would make since that when it sat
it lost it's prime and now it's not delivering fuel to the fuel rail.

It also could be that your pump has gone bad and not charging your fuel
system. Either way it has to be checked and eliminated. The only way to
check this it to drop your fuel tank and pull the sending unit out of the tank
to inspect it. A new fuel pump and sending unit cost about 200.00 and takes
about 2-3 hours to replace.

Any questions just ask,

Good Luck,

John

Keith_C wrote:

Quote

Is it really that hard to turn on the headlights when it gets dark?

No, It was just a thought. I am like a lot of other guy on here and like to work on
my rig. I don't always take the easy road but will listen to opinions. I enjoy modifying
and upgrading when possible. It's not necessary to do the auto light switch with a
sensor but thought it might be fun idea. I like to think it through and problem solve
modifications for my Jeep. I'm not likely to do it just throwing the idea around to see
if it had been done before and if there was a upgrade that I wouldn't have to reinvent
the wheel.

anything in the jeep family that utilized the setup so I could use the switch?

My headlight switch went out on me so now I have to replace it. I want
to replace it with a auto on light sensor that will go on and off with the
brightness outside. Do TJ's have this type of headlight switch or will I
have to go and hunt for one in the local pick and pull yard? Also, where
would the light sensor be located so I can snag it along with the switch?

I wanted to upgrade my used, rusted, kinked, burred, and hard to handle winch line with a new
synthetic line. I also need to know what length, diameter size, strength, and brand fellow jeepers
are using on their rigs. Are there any pros or cons related to the use of this style of recovery line?
Any brands to stay away from, your opinion on style and price would also be helpful.



Thanks,

John

Here are both of the flatty fenders completed. I really like it a lot. I gave
me all the extra clearance I needed up front. You have to remember that
with a SR Kit, the Axel swings rearward. I was having issues with the tire
rubbing on the lower fender in a hard turn while hitting a bump. The rear axle
would swing back and the tire would rub. I now have the clearance I need.

I had to show the finished product....

[size=5]Before.....[/size]







[size=5]After....[/size]