Posts by cdlongjr

It could be metalflex hose. Only about an inch OD.

After adding the fresh gas and Foo Foo juice, I was headed to the DMV when BANG, muffler blew out @ the top rear. I have replaced the Cat and the muffler. I need to know where I can get the tube or high temp hose, (Cat came with a short piece of hose to connect to the tube), that comes off the down pipe and goes to the Cat. I've looked on several sites, but can't find it.
Thanks

I'll try the 6 cans of dry gas.
Fun in Mud, Did you leave the timing set at 11 degrees?
I'll adjust the mix screws in until the engine stumbles, then back them out 1/4 turn.

Tried the guaranteed to pass, no workie. I'll try the dry gas. Had low octane in the 1st time. All the "pass emissions testing articles I've read says to use high octane.

87 YJ, 4.2 with rebuilt Carter BBD, Dura spark II, (new rotor, cap, wires and coil). Autolite plugs gapped @ ,035. Nutter by pass.
For inspection, timing was set @ 2 degrees BTDC, mix screws were turned in until engine started to die, then backed out 1/4 turn. Gasoline was regular, no oil change.
Emissions: low HC- Low 293- failed need 220. High 95- passed. CO- Low 0.12 passed, High 3.96 failed, need 1.20 CO%+CO2%-Low 9.29 High 15.84
The tube from the exhaust down pipe to the cat was removed by the PO.
Since the test I have run all the regular gas out and refilled with High test.
Any one have an ideas before I wire the computer back in?

Do a search for an article about dyi posi loc. I found it and did my 87. Around $50 bucks. I used a vegetable can with adhesive silcone to cover my exposed spring.

Thanks guys! New one's it is. Nev-r-seze or blue locktite?
Don't risk reinstalling rusted and stressed hardware. It's highly recommended to replace all U-bolts if they are ever removed. "From Black Diamond"

Ok, here the senerio; I have installed new u bolts. Take to shop and get front end alined. Needs degree shims. Can I reuse the u bolts or should I get 2 sets for the front? YJ will probably have 25 miles on it, travel to and from the repair shop.

I had to remove the u bolts from my YJ with a grinder and Dremel tool. The PO didn't apply nev-r-seze when he installed the lift kit. On each side, one u bolt was lond enough that 4-5 threads were showing on one, but the other, the threaded part was only 1/2 way thru the nut. How do I measure for the correct size u bolt and where do you recommend I purhase them?
Thanks

I had to take the u bolts with a grinder. The nuts were only 1/2 way on the u bolt threads, no lockwashers. Where do ya'll recommend I purchase new u bolts, and how do I measure them to be sure I get the correct length?
Thanks

I'm going to remove those things. Hopefully I can find an article that explaines how to check the caster myself. Runnin' ot a funds. Gotta put a new roof on the house and Mamma ain't happy.
Thanks guys!

No, it's on the steering axle. That part may be correct, I'm gonna order them.. Not much left of the one's on the YJ. There isn't anything like this at the rear axle, should there be?
Thanks guys.
Just empty every pocket is proving to be correct!

Finally got the new engine in, running and serviced. While greasing the chassis, I saw that the driver's side axle stop has rotated backwards, 1/4 of the axle. Upon further investigation, I found that there is 1 aluminum plate between the springs and mounts, on each side, that are about gone. (Photos in "The ole fart's album). I know how to tigthen the u boults, but what are the aluminum plates for and where can I get new one's? I have a 4" suspension lift.
Thanks

Ya just got to remember it's under the seat when ya go muddin"!

Hose #1 should have a flare nut in the back of the housing. You will need a flare nut wrench to remove it. (that's a box end wrench with a slot in it to slip over the tubing and fit the hex head). I would soak it with PC Blaster for a few days. #2 should just have a clamp on the back side. I just put another engine in my YJ and couldn't get Line #1 out, so I kept the old power steering pump on. You might try taking the line off at the steering box.

Got it figured out. She's runnin"! Now for inspection.

Last item before I can fire her up and I think there's a problem. Shop repair manual says there are 2 belts. One goes around the crank, fan hub and alternator. No problem with this one. Second belt goes around the crank, fan hub and power steering pump pulley. I think there is a problem here.The only way a belt will go around all three pulleys and line up is if I use the groove in the crank pulley closest to the block. This is the groove in line with the timing mark index. Can I put a belt in this groove? I'm asking because it doesn't look like a standard groove. I thought about just going from the fan hub to the power steering pump, but the 2 groove pulley on the fan hub doesn't have enough clearance between it and the crank pulley to install a belt. That means I would have to remove the fan just to change the belt. The new engine had a single pulley on it, but I replaced it with the double pulley off the old engine.

Got it on. Finally found photo in shop repair manual.

Aluminum mount broke this morning while trying to adjust the belt tension. I have a steel mount shaped like a C. I need photos of this mounted so I can get both belts back on and get her fired up.
Thanks
cdlongjr@msn.com

Found the diagram I needed for the plumbing in the shop repair manual. Now I have another question: What do I need to install my K&N air filter assembly? All I have is the throat of the carb. No holes or threaded rod.
Thanks

Engine is in. I have 2 ports on the Carter, ( front of the carb, pointing left), that I don't know what hoses hook to them. Anyone help me out?
Thanks