Posts by cdlongjr

Thanks, I was able to get the hoist from our shop.

New crank bushing ordered, $35. overnight. Hopefully I'll have her running Saturday.

Thanks guys !!!!!!!

Can't post the pics. E mail me and I'll sent them. It seems to be a spacer to mate the torque converter shaft to the crank. Jegs and Summit doesn't have them. I may have to grind it out, which will ruin the crank.

There's an adapter in the crank that the torque converter slides into. How do I get it out? E mail me if ya need pics.
cdlongjr@msn.com

Where can I rent an engine puller? I would need it 2 weekends as my time is limited to work on the Jeep. (Del City refinery is coming back on line).
Bruce and I are in agreement that the engine doesn't have many miles on it since the rebuild. Freeze plugs look new and the rebuilt Carter carb still has the rebuild tags and isn't discolored or tarnished. As I have done the Nutter by pass, should I leave the Carter on and try to get thru inspection, replace the Carter with the MC2100 and try to get thru inspection or wire the computer in with the Carter and try to get thru inspection, (don't know if the computer is working correctly).
Thanks

Low compression, rod knock and the amount of blow by coming out the valve cover when the PCV valve is removed.

Tech worked on her, running 100% better, but engine is shot. May or may not pass in spection. Needs rebuild or replaced. Thinking of replacement with SBC.

I have replaced the carb gaskets and using a vacuum gauge, adjusted the carb and timing.I still have a miss at idle. Gauge is still swinging from 15-17". About 10 minutes ago, I lucked out. One of the state approved techs lives in my subdivision and I just happen to know him.
More to come, he'll look at her Sunday.

Thanks for the info folks. Where is a good spot to get manifold vacuum? PVC valve , line that goes to the power brake booster? I'm going to adjust the carb and timing like some have suggested, by using a vacuum gauge.
Thanks

Hole in bottom of carb is for choke hot air. PCV Valve plugged off-12”-14” of vacuum constantly swinging back and forth. Per the manual that came with the Mityvac, this could be weak or broken valve spring(s), any thing else that would cause this? I played hell getting the valve cover to seal the last time I had it off.

Thank you for the offer of the timing light. Sounds like I need to invest in one. Also for the info on the adjustment screws. I'm waiting on gaskets for the carb and adapter, then, hopefully the rough idle will be fixed and I can set timing and adjust carb.

Power timed= engine warm, hold brakes w/ tranny in drive, mash accelerator, turn distributor until highest rpms are reached, lock down distributor.
Neighbor told me to back out the mix screws. He has a street rod sooooo I figured he knew what he was talking about.

She was power timed.

87w/ 4.2L & MC2100 carb. Low HC was 621, allowed 220. Everything else passed.

Emission repairs done to Jeep

Ignition module, distributor pick up, rotor and cap and ignition coil, have been replaced

Nutter by pass-(computer by passed for ignition system).

New plugs, (Autolite), and wires,( NAPA), PCV valve, oil filter and oil,(Valvoline 60 wt racing oil)

1 can guaranteed to pass in tank, ran ½ tank out,

After 1^{[size=1em]st[/size]} try thru inspections:

Low HC was 621

topped off with premium unleaded.

Sprayed 1 can of 2+2 thru carb @ 2,000 rpms

Backed both mix screws out 1 turn

After 2nd try thru inspections:

Low HC was over 2,000

Replaced carb top gasket and bottom gasket, sprayed all vacuum lines with Gum Out carb cleaner, found no leaks.


Vacuum checks on 87 Jeep Wrangler w/ 4.2L MC 2100 carb

Fuel pump pressure is 5 lbs

Very rough idle @ 1,000 rpms

Vacuum on PVC valve line-PCV valve open-3”

Valve plugged off-12”-14” constantly swinging back and forth

Vacuum @ distributor, PCV valve open-0”

Valve plugged off-0”

Vacuum @ EGR valve, PCV valve open-0”

Valve plugged off-0”

Vacuum from carb, front right to ported vacuum switch-0”

From switch to carb-4.5” steady

Vacuum from carb, right side bottom,(metal tee), to power brake booster- small line that goes to auto trans modulator valve-10”-18”, swings constantly. If port is left open, engine dies.

Vacuum from canister to ported vacuum switch-5” steady

From switch to canister-0”

Vacuum from top of carb fuel bowl to to canister-0”

From canister to top of fuel bowl-0”

I have removed the carb to replace both gaskets on the Mr Gasket adapter. When I removed the carb, the gasket between the carb abd the adapter has a black greasy substance on it. There is a passage way on the bottom of the carb, left side that has a step in it. In the middle of the step is a hole. When I tilted the carb on it's back to remove the adapter plate, gas was coming from the passage and the hole. Is the hole supposed to be there? Could mthis be my vacuum leak causing the rough idle. I have pics, but can't unload them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I gotta get her on the road fro Mama!
CD 302-690-9046
CDLONGJR@MSN.COM

Sorry about the delayed response, been out of town. It was the fuse. I didn't know the hazards and brake lights were on the same fuse.
Thanks

Was checking her over tonight so I could get her inspected tomorrow. All the lights are working except the brake lights. I removed the 1157 bulbs and checked them. Both filaments light. I looked in the fuse block, but can't see a slot for a fuse for the brake lights. Manual is no help at all. What am I missing?
Thanks

Needs some work sheetmetal wise. Pics in my album The Ole Fart. Got the parking brake and leg working. NOW, what to do with it.

Can anyone tell me how this is supposed to work with my stock float? Mac's antique Auto parts, the seller couldn't.

(What I mean by tubes are the stacks-tubes that are on the top plate near the rear of the fuel bowl).

Took the top off the carb, gasket looks fine, and ran her. I have fuel squirting up around the needle. If I push down on the needle it stops until I let off the needle. The seat looks good. Is there supposed to be a gasket or something in the seat? If so, whatever is supposed to be there is missing. I only have the brass.