Posts by Freebird1992

Quote from mferrari

We've had a CNC plasma table in the shop for almost 2 years now. They are a great asset to have but you should also take into account the learning curve for the software.

Not everyone will be able to draw up the parts they want cut on CAD software and just bring the file over to you. Most of the time you will need to take the time to design the part for your customer. In my opinion don't buy it in hopes you can pay it off without side work. Buy the machine if it will benefit you in your shop.

If you have any questions when you are looking for a table let me know. I've had two different tables and done a ton of research while purchasing both.

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Will send a PM tonight when I have a chance to sit down with my dad. We have a couple questions but think it will benefit us a lot. The point wasn't to pay it off in any forseeable time period, but just to get a little side business going to help fund our projects without taking into account the cost of the machine.

Quote from shadyluke

Sounds cool but the average DEJA member isn't building custom parts. The initial investment will be huge for a CNC mill. A CNC plasma table can make most of what the average suspension and jeep builder would need. They can be had in the $10k price range. Even still it may take years to pay for itself.

Good Luck

Sorry about my lack of terminology. We are looking into a cnc plasma table that you can mount a router or plasma into.

My dad wants to start to move away from the computer business and wants to get into some more fabrication type stuff like he used to do. We are considering purchasing a CNC machine to be able to cut consistent metal pieces, and have precision that we just can't with the plasma and our hands alone. Also, my dad's friend wants to use it with a router for some wood stuff. So the point of this thread is to guage the interest of DEJA members for some of the products we might be able to make. Would people be interested in bringing their whatever to us and having us fab it up? We figure it would be cheeper than ordering from somewhere else and easier than trying to fab up difficult pieces. But before we take the plunge with that amount of money we wanted to guage interest from people who are close who we thought might be interested.
*Note* - I'm not sure if this goes here or in swap meet so mods feel free to move it.

Dana 70 has 35 spline axles - currently pending sale

I think it is a 70u - 4.10 gears and factory limited slip. I will count the splines on the axles when i get a chance.

Located in Newark, DE - close to Newark Country Club.

To be clear the CJ6 tub, vin and title are a not separated and not sold separately.

Decent used engine hoist. Works well. 3 Length positions (I believe) - $100. Thanks!

I have 8 new injectors for the 6.5l, as well as all the tools and gaskets for the install. I also have brand new injector lines. $600 for everything. Thanks!

Like the title says. Not enough time for the project and I want to try to get into med school so every penny counts. Prices are fairly firm, but may consider discounts on package deals. I have:

- YJ power steering setup - $65

- YJ master cylinder and brake booster - $20

- T-18 w/ 6:1 ratio, fully rebuilt w/ novak rebuild kit. Just needs bearings pressed back in by someone with a press and to be buttoned back up. Will include bellhousing to mount to 258. (this is the t-18 from a FSJ) - $300

- Dana 20, not rebuilt - $50

- novak Dana 20 rebuild kit (20MR $238 + Shipping) in original packaging for it - $175

- YJ seat brackets - $15 for the pair

- CJ6 Rear Seat - $50

- Ford F350 shock towers with shocks - $30 for the pair

- CJ Intermediate hood great condition- $75

- 1 CJ5 & 1CJ7 windshield - with good glass - $50 each

- YJ Steering Column - $10

- YJ Grill - $30

- CJ Grill with Good Radiator - $75 - will separate - pending sale

- Solid unused dana 60 diff cover - SOLD

- Dana 60 Rebuild kit with kingpins - still in packaging - SOLD

- Dana 70 not rebuilt - sold- 1974 CJ6 tub w/ Vin- sold

- '74 CJ6 258, ran when I pulled it ~6 months ago - sold

- YJ Tube Fender kit - SOLD

- Dana 60 kingpin 4.10 gears - SOLD

Quote from Diablo

Good choice! I've had mine since release day.

I got one too. I had the Droid 2 and the Droid before, and I rooted and installed new ROMs on both. Haven't felt the need to do so with the Thunderbolt. Runs smooth and quick, like it should.

If only you didn't have to choose between a bed and back seats

Quote from 2000sahara

Fill the front diff and tilt it ....If it starts leaking out the axle tubes you need new seals. If your pulling them appart just replace them and get it over with. Ive done my front d60 seals 3 times and helped out on a few more. Never needed a case spreader. The rear d70 is sealed at the end of the axle shafts It would be obvious if it was leaking. Mine had small gaskets on the ends of the shafts to seal them, but they got all boogerd up so i used some rtv and wished them well. Been holding fine since. If you have disc brakes on the rear the inner wheel seal can leak too.
When removing the carrier just stuff a rag between the ring gear and the pinion gear and rotate the pinion with a prybar..... The rag with help separate the two and the whole carrier will pop right out.
Ed

Thanks, that sounds really helpful. I have a couple grand saved up and am now contemplating whether I should just regear the axles or not, since i'm already here... Always something right? I just dunno that it's worth it. They've got 4.10 gears now so if I regear to anything worth it then i'll need new carriers anyways. Anyways I'll be ordering the master rebuild kits for the t18 and dana 20 tomorrow, and I'll let you guys know how all that plays out.

Quote from turtle

[size=11px]Straight from Novak's site[/size]
[size=11px]"The T98's progeny, the [color=rgb(0, 0, 102)]T18[/color][/size], used the same top cover as the T98 up through 1979. Many individuals assume they have found a T98 upon seeing the "T98" cast into the top cover, when in fact, it is a T18.
[size=11px]The only way to rule T98 out from being a T18 is to open the top cover and count gear teeth. The T98 will have a 43 tooth first-reverse sliding gear (the rearmost mainshaft gear, spur cut) and a 17 tooth cluster gear (also spur cut)."[/size]

actually saw that earlier today haha. That's what I ended up doing. Looks like i definitely have the t18 w/ 6.32 gearing. Would've posted earlier, but I have been out all night. Thanks for looking it up though!

Quote from Keith_C

Seals are cheap. If you have it torn apart anyway ...

very true. I just don't have a case spreader to get the gears out. I guess I should say it is completely torn apart at both ends

Finally got the *&%#ing transmission apart... To find some interesting stuff. While the case for the trans says t-18 1B, all the shift forks say t98 on them... I'm hoping someone didn't just put all the t98 guts in a t18 case and sell it to me. Nothing else is stamped so can anyone tell me how to tell my gear ratio by looking at the gears themselves? As in, which ones do i count and divide? Or if there is any other way to tell if I have a t18 or t98 and which rebuild kit to order

I have no idea. Never had it set up or anything. Tore it apart as soon as I got it.

No one has a way to tell if my inner seal is good or not?

Called Novak Today. They said that I have to pull the t18 and dana 20 apart, and that there are differences that are laid out on their website. As far as the axles, I called Benchmark Transmission and asked for pricing on popping the difs out and replacing the seals. Still waiting for a call back from them.

Hey guys. Now that we have moved and settled in, I am finally ready to start my rebuild. But I have a bunch of questions before I start. Any help would be appreciated, so here it goes:

Is there any way to tell by looking at the casing, or anything else what year my t18 transmission is from? I need to know so I can order the right rebuild kit from Novak. Same with my D20 tcase.

How do I tell (without spreading the case and removing the gears) if my d60 and d70 inner axle seals need to be replaced?

Thanks again in advance for the advice!

Quote from Keith_C

Looks like the assy is $125. P/N: 52059695AA

Thanks Keith! I built a temporary fix out of an aluminum dowel, but I would feel better replacing the part entirely.

*update* i just pulled off the shifter and found the little white plastic piece is broken. I was able to push it in with my thumb and get the truck out then into park and get the key out. Is the dealer going to want to replace the entire shifter? I really can't afford any major repairs right now, so if anyone has the parts/knowledge to help replace this thing I will pay you for your time and effort. Thanks and let me know