Posts by Jon

I've got a clicking (somtimes combination rubbing rubber) noise happening on acceleration/deceleration when the jeep is in gear, but stops when out of gear coasting. Clicking/rubbing increases with acceleration.

So after doing random searches on wranglers clicking, maybe this sounds like a u-joint? Question is, if so, which u-joint should I be looking at? sounds like its coming from the front. I'm guessing the drive shaft u-joint is the one I disconnected to fix the pinion seal last year? Axle u-joints I've not played with yet, so hoping this might be a driveshaft u-joint since it seems to go away when I coast out of gear?

Possibly unrelated issue, when taking the foot off the gas or back on, especially in 5th gear at highway speeds, the entire jeep sways from the torque. Put on a motor mount lift kit about a year and a half ago to go with a body lift, so they should be in pretty good shape. Feels excessive though, any place I should look for extra play that might be causing this?

Thanks,
Jon

2003 tj, I've been having 4wd lo popping out which I'm hoping can be solved by adjusting the linkage, but I've got a question about the general setup.

Theres a 2.5-3 inch skyjacker basic suspension lift with a transfer case drop kit - about 1 inch - basic install kit, spings, lcas
Added a 1 inch mml / bl kit a while back and left on the transfer case drop. The 4wd shifter became a bit dodgie after that, but is popping out more often these days = annoying on the trail

Both kits came with the bracket to lower the transfer case shifter, but the skyjacker kit had holes to adjust the shifter 2 ways. When the 2.5 with the transfer case lowering kit was put on, I used the first set of holes, then when the mml / bl was added, I used the lower set, so its been lowered twice, and everything seemed to line up.

Question: Do I still need the transfer case lowering brackets on there with the mml/bl combo, or can I get rid of the lowering kit and go back to using the first set of holes in the shifter mount bracket?

Second question: From what I've read, to adjust the linkage, just put in 4wd lo and then loosen the locking screw and push the linkage all the way forward? Is that correct?

Thanks,
Jon

Anyone else having trouble getting here using comcast as an internet connection? I'm in Newark, and when I try to connect to this page from home, I'm getting a comcast page not found intermediate page with suggestions about what I might be looking for. At work, I have no problems connecting.

Finally got around to doing this yesterday and it wasn't too bad. the second person on the brakes was a great tip. Yeah I grabbed a new nut when I got the seal and torqued it back to 180, so hopefully it'll be ok. no more leak anyway

thanks for the tips,
Jon

I was just going to use a breaker bar except that won't give me a measure of torque to loosen, so might just pick up a larger torque wrench

Looks like my front pinion seal is leaking so I found a writeup on replacing that looked somewhat straight forward. And then i found another writeup that said I would need to replace the crush sleeve to do it right. So I called the dealer to see if it was worth my time and it turns out, they don't replace the crush sleeve when they do the pinion seal, just torque the nut back to the same pounds as to remove it.

So, I figured I'd just try myself without replacing the crush sleeve. Is this bad?

and should I replace anything else down there while I'm at it?

2003 wrangler 30 in the front, 44 in the back

anyone see this press release? extended range electric wrangler for 2010?

http://www.cnbc.com/id/26850309

Just a follow up question on this, I was talking with a guy at keen while switching out a beer-oriented c02 tank, and he said that filling and running the c02 eventually can damage aluminum rims? reacts with the aluminum after a while? anyone ever hear of that?

if you put those on, how do you protect the area from rusting? same question if you get the metal rails that attach to the rocker panels?

these are bad pics, they actually just cover the tires, better ones later:

I'll put up a picture later today, what did everyone do with the hole that the secondary front fender used to cover up? I never noticed that on other jeeps

I just ordered these yesterday morning from truckcustomizers.com and they shipped same day for free. Getting here today total of 391 if anyone else is in the market

had the same mount for a long time, held up well. also have that radio rail to mount the cb on, and that works great

just replaced that, 17 at dealer - brandywine

delaware tire across from ud stadium is the cheapest I've seen bf goodrich around delaware

Thanks to everyone for the feedback, I think I'll just stick with the 8's then, much cheaper that way

So, rims off the market, tires are decent shape, 4 ATs - about 5/16 tread, even wear, offroaded, but nothing extreme. probably good for another year or so daily. I'll take pictures and post to the swap section tonight. Probably looking for 120 for the set.

Anyone on here run 33 bfg at's or mt's on 8 inch rims? recommended size says 10 inch rims, just wondering how important that is.

Also anyone have interest in 4 bfg at 32x11.50s on mickey thompson classic IIs? (15x8)

thanks,
Jon

just slightly along these lines, is there a big quality difference between the hijack brand and a farm jack you would pick up from harbor freight?

quadratec has this:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13029_200.htm

or you could just wire it yourself, works well. That fuse also diables the "you left your lights on" ding, which can be important in the case you forget to turn off your lights.

my 03 sport has d44 rear with disc all around, should be able to find one somewhere, unlike rubicon though, just fake locker in the back and nothing in the front

Just a question, but has anyone used herculiner on plastic? like the inside of doors? does it hold up?