Posts by zachv

We just bought a nice vinyl cutter to make our own decals for the business, but we could cut some for you if you need. If I can help please let me know.

I just found out my dealer pricing and we are doing the first five orders at $625 with FREE SHIPPING. We have two units of the five claimed so far so if you are ready for one now please call. After the first five we will sell them at $640, plus $35 shipping.

Here is the update I received today:

Quote

The Viking Fast Back tops are finally here!

Currently available top: Viking Fast Back for Jeep Wrangler TJ 1997-2006.
Color: Black
Fabric: Denim (Same as Factory Denim)
Windows: Dark Tint (same as factory dark tint)
Requirements: Windshield Channel (no drill), Tailgate bar + hardware and soft top door surrounds.

Requires Bestop or Smittybilt No-Drill Windshield Channel (header bar). We have both brands and they are both virtually identical in design and quality.
If you need the Windshield Channel please make the selection as one of two options in the purchase page.

We also have a limited number of tailgate bar kits. This is the second available option on the purchase page.

If you are converting from a hard top, you will need to acquire factory soft top Door Surrounds in addition to the Windshield Channel and Tailgate Bar. We do not have these in stock but there are several locations where these can be purchased such as the Jeep dealership, Quadratec, and likely ebay for new or used ones.

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We will be taking orders for the first batch this week and next. Call me direct for special DEJA pricing.

Quote from wanderlust

I do need to get a counter sunk screw for one side, but just haven't looked for one yet.

Paul, we use Fastenal for all of our hardware if you have one close by. The 1" long units are PN1173908 and the 2.5" long units are PN73914. If you can wait a few days for the mail I will send you what you need at no cost. Shoot me an e-mail if I can help.
Thanks.

Quote from surfrider

The plate with the logo are standard issue now , while the 2 tub gussets are custom order now .
I like mine and I'm happy with the fit and quality of rocker guards . Havent had a chance to test them yet .

You are correct. Our logo plates are standard now just because some of our retailers wanted us to brand our products a little and we found that to be a great way to do it instead of cutting some intricate design in the bases that collect rust. With that said we gladly still offer our tube gusset models, but we do have to charge an extra $15 to cover the labor and they have to be custom ordered by phone so we get the order correct.

Also, regarding the other companies mentioned, have any of them ever donated to any DEJA events and do they offer a 10% member discount to help support the club?

We do.

Either way, thanks for even considering us.

If you hate the price increases so much, as we all do, contact your Congress people and local representatives. Tell them to stop sending jobs to China and to let American oil companies drill where they need.

Not trying to pimp, but I have not seen a better unit than the Clayton offroad tracbar drop bracket and adjustable bar kit.

If you have 4" of lift or more they are great as it is super beefy and makes the joint in the correct orientation in double shear.

We are dealers for them and awaiting the call when they are available again. The seam issue is not why they stopped making them, that was a small issue that was fixed before they stopped making them. Everyone I know with one loves them so hopefully they will be good to go when they resume production.

Meeper, I am not busting on you--that is a nice kit and we have used that before also. One question--did you weld the top edge of the frame, behind the mount? The only way to get to that, that I could see was to lower the gas tank. What we wound up doing was cutting a slit in the bracket where the top edge of the frame was and welding it out from the front.

BTW, if the weld on the Clayton shock mount comes off I would be surprised. ;D

Quote from ruquik

Interesting segway developing here . After seeing the A to Z stuff in person I can say that the stuff built by them is very nice and well designed (Nice welds too). But I think I will have to say that at the very least Clayton (who everyone one here thinks very highly of) could make the upper shock post look a lot nicer then a couple pieces of channel welded together and with out having to cut up the inner fender well (salt spray sucks).

Unless you have seen the Clayton rear shock relocater kit in person you cannot see the quality. It is not bent channel and is actually laser cut and CNC formed steel. The channel through the frame is the only way to get long enough shocks to work with the amount of travel afforded by the kit. The beauty of Clayton's stuff is their simplicity and functionality. I had a hard time for a long time with the square links looking "hillbilly", but when you actually wheel their stuff and it lasts it makes sense. Plus, they are stand-up guys willing to support their products that I have not found with many other manufacturers.

Wow, this is a fun thread. I guess the water is a little contaminated in certain areas down there.

For the engineer, please quantify "catastrophic failure". Obviously, before making such a statement, you have done failure testing and material analysis. I am sure that someone of such high intelligence would not go off and make a statement without being able to fully back it up with statistical facts. I sure would hate to be an engineer that would make a statement and not be able to have verifiable proof to make my case--it sure would make an engineer look stupid if that were the case. Before making that statement maybe you should know the full installation procedure. If there was one failure, just one, since Clayton has been doing this I would then be willing to entertain some concerns. Until then, go back to reading because that is all your knowledge is good for.

Turtle, Clayton only recommended the sway bar for towing applications. I was concerned during installation and called on that also. What have you guys found to be the hot line for wheeling? I would be more apt to do a rear Antirock than to mount the swaybar back on the axle.

BTW, is Meeper just a Clayton hater for some reason? I am not on here enough to know his proclivity, but I have not seen a better real-world kit than what Clayton is putting out. Nothing seems to drive on-road and off-road better and be beefier. For the $$$ they are hard to beat, IMO.

Chris, it is too bad you got here so late as I had the wings for lunch in honor of you.

BTW, Turtle, are you serious about Guers tea? I started drinking that mule urine when we first moved up here and now I cannot stand it. With you so close to all of those Wawas why would you drink anything other than Lemonade Tea?? It is God's gift to thirsty people and I need to get a half-gallon any time I get close to civilized areas that Wawa selects to market to.

BTW, Part 2, Turtle call me when you get a chance? 609-668-3043. Thanks.

Quote from tedsbumper

2 questions on the Staun internals:

1. How sturdy is the material? Like if I'm aired waaaayyy down and hit a sharp rock and it pushes in the tire considerably, could it damage the Staun?

2. How much of a PIA are they to install? Do I have to drill another valve stem hole for them?

1. Very sturdy. I think the outer shell is Kevlar material. I know the guys running them in rock races and Baja have had great results.
2. Not as bad as they used to be. They do provide a CD to show the proper method and after you do one the rest take way less time. Also, yes, you do need to install a secondary valve stem to fill the inner tube and the main stem still fills the tire.

I hope that helps.

Steve, we offer them also, and at great prices for local club members.

Brian, we offer the basic weld-in beadlock kits pretty reasonable and could weld them into a set of basic steel wheels for not too much.

Quote from quadna

not only is zach (AtoZ) locsal to PA like sor4x4, but he also has supported DeJA in the past with donations to some of our annual events....

Thanks, Chris!

For info on the covers, I prefer formed steel to the cast units because I feel they will seal better than the cast units. In my experience, I have seen more leaking cast diff covers, both Crane units and RC units, while the ones we offer are machined perfectly flat after all welding has been done and I have driven into more rocks this year that you would believe and there are no issues with them.

Hope that helps.

Good info, Ian. I was not trying to be argumentative, just curious. Sorry if it came off like that. I know that Gouroc/Winchline.com, who I rep for, wraps the first 10' of every line in a heat resistant sleeve so I wonder how much that affects the char point of Amsteel Blue.
Interesting.

Quote from clendaniel

ORO's X-Line...love mine. I saw a steel cable break and will never own another one, the benefits of synthetic line far outweigh the cost IMHO.

http://www.offroadonly.com/products/recovery/x-line/

--Ian

What is so special about X-line? It seems pretty comparable to Amsteel Blue. X-line is "rated" at 18K and 3/8" Samson's Tec-12 is 18K and X-line's heat resistance is 490 degrees where Samson's Tec-12 is 450 with a "char point" of 900 degrees. Personally, I just use the Trail Line as they put a heat shield on all of the anyway and I have never seen anyone melt cable to a drum.
I was just wondering if there was anything I missed about the X-line that should be noted. Thanks for any info.

Clayton, thanks for looking at our products. We do offer them as a DIY kit, but also installed for $575 and they take about six hours.
Please let me know if we can help.
Thanks again.
Zach.

We are a Viking dealer, for both the winch lines and the tops, and they are absolutely great to work with. I had corresponded with Jon this morning. Apparently the company that they have doing the stitching had issues and they immediately stopped production until they are positive they have it corrected. They are stand-up people and I am sure they will make any repairs needed to fix the situation. I had a customer fray his winch line with an improper mount and they offered to re-do the hook if we sent it back--that is pretty solid service, if you ask me.

If you ever need anything from Viking please call us and support a local company that gives DEJA discounts.