Posts by Karvor

Just throwing this out there.....a LOT of PCM's get replaced without true need to do so on the 4.0 set-up. Not sure what your particular problem is but wanted to throw the 'heads up' out there that in the even a sensor that is on the PCM's 5 volt reference signal shorts out, it takes down the entire BUS. This can be checked by unplugging each of the sensors using the 5 volt reference one at a time until the BUS comes back up.

Again, I don't know what your specific issue is.....Just trying to throw some advice out that could be useful.

Here is the actual Chrysler press release:
http://www.chryslergroupllc.co…df?ism=RGJun1813Facebook7

Hey Chief, I'm, a little late to the thread but I might be able to help pinpoint the noise when you're driving to give you peace of mind. I have a set of "Chassis Ears", basically microphones you hook up to suspected sites and listen for where the noise is the loudest.

If the noise is just the locker not engaging it would be safe to drive. If it's a you joint or a bearing going, it would be unsafe depending on how bad the wear is. I'm in Dover and will be working in my garage most of the weekend if you want to hop on over for a 'look see'

I purchased their 2 inch body lift kit and it came with everything needed and was of good quality. I personally would not have a problem buying more products from them.

Pretty much all manufacturers do the same thing. I'm waiting for a corporate engineer / loss control guy to come to my work to 'evaluate' a problem i found in a new model line that I can't legally ( at this point) fix. Depending on how likely the issue would be to cause harm, as opposed to the cost feilding a repair for all effected models, asnd figureing in the likelihood of lawsauits then gives the answer as to what happens.

Can also be the dreaded carbon sponging on the valves.....how many miles do you have on it? I assume since your sign on is DoverTJ that it's a 4.0L engine.

It sounds like you are trying to make more work for yourself than you have to. Just run a wire with an eyelet on the end of it to the pinch bolt for the ground connection. They also make battery cable ends with an additional post to run wires from.

But if you like the idea of splicing an existing wire, yes that will work as long as the existing wire isn't all corroded inside.

Yup, like Keith said, that will be fine. It is also easy to run that ground to the firewall from the battery which i highly recomend and will most likely fix all your problems. Due to rust and corrosion you have a lot of resistance between the battery and the firewall since the ground has to flow through the rusty connections at 2 points on the engine.

Yeah, and if you can't find him on here, he allways runs a craigslist add

I have a parts Cherokee with a 35 in the rear, not sure what the gearing is, would have to look. But it's a 95 and would require a bit of work to go into a TJ

Reading through everything you've done it sounds like the body ground is shot. This could end up playing havoc with more than just your horn. That being said, every manufacturer has zero problems with technicians adding extra grounds, the more the merrier. My suggestion to get rid of the current problem and future ones that will show up is to run an additional ground from the battery to the firewall. If you only have small gauge wire run a couple of grounds to the firewall, say 1 from the battery and another from the engine, usually a bolt going into the cylinder head. I'm heading to Ohio this weekend, but if you still need a hand you can swing by my place the following weekend and we'll get you hooked up.

Sorry that I'm kinda late to the party here....but if you want to see what it has taken to repair the Michigan rust on my 98 TJ frame you can stop by my place here in Dover. Just keep in mind that anything you do is only a repair and not a fix. Eventually the frame will have to be replaced with a new unit, cutting and welding is only postponing the enevitable. But I did get all my frame repairs done this past weekend, now I need to fix the body mounts on the tub. But like I said you can come by for a look if you like. The tub is off the frame so you can get a good close up look at the problem areas and my repairs.

More often than not I find that a worn track bar / panhard bar, whichever you want to call it is the culprit. It fails at the point where it attaches to the frame bracket. The only way you can check it is by having the wheels on the ground while someone else moves the steering wheel back and forth about 3 inches either way.
Death wobble occurs when the front axle actually moves to the right and then left rapidly due to worn suspension components, and sometimes a bad steering stabilizer a.k.a. shimmy shock can contribute to this. So while you are inspecting things under there also have a look to see if any of the control arm bushings are torn or worn out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE1vTMl69fw
This is a short video of what is happening under the Jeep during death wobble. Once the axle starts to move sideways, it pulls on the steering tie rod ends which steers the wheels without steering wheel input. Then the axle gets shoved the opposite direction pulls the wheels the other way agravating the situation until the fillings in your teeth fall out!

The wife was telling me about this because she has been driving past the signs for it on her way to Milford. Anyone been there or know what it's all about?

May 25-26 Delaware Four Wheelers, Region B
Flat-O-Rama near Frederica, Delaware

HAHA now the children are making plans to do this, come summer.

Stayed busy in the garage today finishing up the rear 4 link and welding new metal into the frame.
[img width=1200 height=900]http://i.imgur.com/GQu0i6R.jpg[/img]
The frame mount for UCA (Can anyone pick out the bonehead mistake I made?)
[img width=1200 height=900]http://i.imgur.com/IgSjrbZ.jpg[/img]
New metal welded into the frame after the rott was cut out.
[img width=1200 height=900]http://i.imgur.com/2BvMMgy.jpg[/img]
4-Link setup all done. My floor jack with a jackstand on it could not lift the frame high enough for me to put in the 6 inch lift springs, so I had to get the wife to install them while I lifted up the back end of the frame. The arms are a wee bit longer than most out of the box kits. I don't plan on re-installing the 'shovel' it had on it before.

It's one not worth the work (d35). But i wanted the 4 link in place for when i do upgrade the axles. However knowing the wife she'll probably drive on it for years before breaking.

So I got a little extra cash and started working on the project jeep again. Made the rear axle truss and 4 link mount. My coat hanger pattern kinda slipped in the front when i was chalking out my cuts but it's not a big deal. Just get some round steel rod and fill in as I weld. Also got my 6 inch shocks and springs in. Hopefully more pics to follow this weekend with the axle installed and long arms in it.

Well Keith_C the child was flipping out because your dog looks like her dog....
Here he is with his donut because he wouldn't stop licking his paw:

One without the donut:

Also check the hose connection to the purge control solenoid, they deteriorate over time and once handled can produce holes that suck unmetered air. This will be at the center of the intake on the side right by the throttle chamber.