There has been a banging noise from both ends of my Jeep for a while and today I finally took the time to investigate. Turns out the lower bushings in the rear sway bar links are worn to an oval shape while the upper mounts in the front are very sloppy.
My Jeep is stock ride height with 31’s and I run mostly Blues and Greens without disconnecting. Does anyone make a more durable links and bushings or are the factory ones the only ones available? TIA
OK guys, you're making my head hurt. I'm going to put three hooks into three different 2 x 6 joists. I'm thinking that anyone of them could easily hold 100 pounds (I can do pull ups on one and I am a little over 100 pounds) so even if the top was 210, that is only 70 each which shouldn't be a problem, right?
I used to know this one, wait a sec...
That's it?!? I'm looking into building a hoist for the garage and I was looking into building extra supports. I guess that will not be necessary, thank you.
I've tried searching but there are a ton of posts and none of them had the weight listed. Thanks
Steve, thanks for the trailblazing. That mound sure looked a lot steeper from inside the Jeep than it does in the photos. My wife was quiet about our attempt but my daughter thought we should've taken a running start. Next time I'm listening to the little one. It was a great trip, even the camping (at the Jameson) part, but especailly meeting new people and being able to put faces to the board names. Count us in for next year!
Is anyone else staying at the Jamison? We will not be getting down there until Friday evening and I just want to make sure I'm not the only one waiting in the parking lot Saturday morning. Feel free to PM or email me. Thanks, Wayne
Kieth, where did you find that one, it looks very interesting.
Quote from "Da Mutt"
Well, I asked him if it was the flat one or the 1 1/4 drop, but either way it seems I'll need a SYE and a CV shaft. I got this from Nth's instruction sheet.
I'm thinking of just filling in that valley on the stock skid, at least I wouldn't get hung up there anymore. And how about reclocking the transfer case, is there any gains to be had there? Will it even fit on hole over?
Quote from "quadna71"once i lower my jeep
Is this going to be the new wRangler type R? Yo?
As I was under the Jeep looking for damage from Saturday I noticed there is a lot of empty space above the transfer case skid. It looked as the transfer case could be clocked over one set of holes and there would almost be enough room for a flat skid.
On Saturday at one point I was not just high-centered, but the recess running side to side in the skid plate was stuck on the corner of the rock. If the plate had been flat it probably would have been much easier to get out of there. There is little doubt in my mind someone has either done this or figured out why it can’t be, but I have not been able to find any info on it.
Quote from "Da Mutt"x2
I know but there is a height limit on my garage and the one at work, yeah that's the reason.
Quote from "1TonTJ"
it took us a while to get everyone though the first section but all in all no breakage, some slight terrain modification but all made it though.
So that's what you call it?
Hey, I got to thank Alan, Tony and Matt for your help getting out of there and letting me run with the more advanced group in the first place. And again to apologize for holding everyone else up. I'm sure I'm not the first one that had to be winched down off a rock but that doesn't make it any less embarrassing.
I've been participating in motorsports for over 25 years but wheeling is new to me. I don't know if I have just been lucky but the Jeep community is the first place I have seen in where the newbies are welcomed and assisted without being made to feel awkward or unwanted. Thanks!
Today I crawled under the Jeep to look for damage from yesterday, this is the worst I found:
So I ordered a steering box side from Skid Row today but I'm not sure about the gas tank. I'd hate to loose anymore clearance and I'm not a big fan of Kilby, Warn or any others that laser cut their logo into the product. Keeping that in mind (especially the clearance part on my non-lifted Jeep), any suggestions?
Matt, my camera takes a few seconds to actually take the picture, you were a little more vertical than that. As you were backing down I heard it start clacking, do did the right thing.
It should be easy to replace, most are mounted on the throttle body with two Torx screws but I've never even looked for the one on my Jeep.
I have an Actron code reader if you would like to borrow it, I am just outside of Newark. While you have the plugs out it would be a good idea to do a compression test, I had a compression gauge but I lent it out and it hasn't come home yet.
Another great time wheeling! Thanks again to everyone for their patience and assistance in getting me unstuck. Of course I never stopped to take a picture of my own junk and I even lost a disc somewhere but these are the ones I have.
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Can't wait till next time!
Remember me Toe Cutter!
That is too bad, I would think it would be worth thier while especially if the Jeep was already stripped and prepped and you were bringing in a few.
FWIW, I didn't mean to imply that Linex was powder coat, only that it is melted, applied and then forms a solid where Herculiner is just paint. Also, aren't the materials, temperatures and processes very different between Linex and Rhino? You can never tell when you are reading BS or not but that is what I had found that tipped the scales in favor or Linex.
