Best paint for hard top

  • So, the top on the yj is looking dull n faded, and what better time to give it a paint job is while its off for the summer!
    So the question is: what's the best brand/type of paint to use for a rattle can spray job? I'm just concerned that I have seen some spray paints get dull and faded rather quickly in the sun... any suggestions or experiences?
    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

  • So, the top on the yj is looking dull n faded, and what better time to give it a paint job is while its off for the summer!
    So the question is: what's the best brand/type of paint to use for a rattle can spray job? I'm just concerned that I have seen some spray paints get dull and faded rather quickly in the sun... any suggestions or experiences?
    Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2



    I have had very good results from a regular can of satin rustolium using a paint pad to apply. Rustolim self levels nicely. Might thin a little for beter spreadability. Mine held up nice for 3 years until I sold it.

    Steve

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • The most expensive additives in paint are the UV inhibitors. These provide the protection from "chalking" of the paint and delamination from the substrate (in this case the hard top) when exposed to the sun. The fact that rattle cans are so cheap makes it clear that there are minimal or lower quality UV inhibitors in them. They are great products for many applications. However, if you have the money and want to do something that will last as long as possible you would want to use:
    1st coat- Adhesion promoter- Many plastics are impregnated with release agents for the molding process. Paint inherently will not adhere to these and the adhesion promoter will help provide a "bite" into the substrate for the basecoat and also act as a barrier from the release agents
    2nd coat- Black (or whatever color you want) basecoat
    3rd coat- Clearcoat or flattened (low gloss) clearcoat- The clearcoat is what provides the UV protection and long term durability. There are additives you can place in the clearcoat to reduce the gloss and create a flat black appearance.
    The above products would be sprayed using a gravity fed gun (cup on top) and a 1.2-1.4 tip and needle. You would also need a clean and dry air supply (oil/water seperator on the air line).
    It is more work than a spray can job but, when done properly, will last the lifetime of the vehicle.
    Just putting my 2 cents in as a "paint guy".

  • Certainly Grningbear is right on for a pro coat. No question, but it s certainly more expensive. Seriously , Rustolum worked great, its cheap and will last. It also flexes well and resists chipping. To you prep the top , skuff it and wipe it down with Xylene or Acetone. Now you might want to go to PPG Paints off of Harmony Road and get a 2-3 cans of Automotive clear coat for extra protection. That will come out glossy.


    Paint pad really does well.. Paint will go one nice and thick and consistent. If you do this , don't paint it in direct sun.



    One other benefit of the cheap paint jop.. Super easy to fix if it gets scratched. sand , repaint.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • As an ex-paint guy, I highly recommend re-reading Bryant's post. Further, I would tell you that from my experiences, anything that says one-stage just doesn't look that good or hold up that well. That would include your rustoleums. And if you decide to put a multi-stage paint on, just make sure you follow the directions to the letter. They are there for a reason ;)

    &quot;Always do sober what you said you&#039;d do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.&quot;--Ernest Hemingway<br /><br />&quot;Only dull people are brilliant at breakfast.&quot; ---Oscar Wilde

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