x3 for Timken.
For brakes i just usually head for the cheapest brand name
I recognize. Sometimes theres a closeout sale and you can
reshoe the whole truck for less than a set of thr cheap china
knockoffs...
Posts by Bonkers
-
-
Quote
Yeah, but for someone who is not familiar with the MJ, it just looks like an XJ in the picture.physically from the windshield forward there is no difference between the Comanche and the Cherokee so it doesn't matter one way or the other. since most of them ended up on Cherokees anyway I'm good with a Cherokee one.
-
Gonna Bump this for old times sake...
Pretty much have everything now except the Warn
Trans4mer Grill Guard - spec'ed for Xj (#60766) but
itll fit the Mj. If anyone happens across one for sale,
please let me know!Thanks!
-
Sorry, bad week... took an injury on monday...
Dkirkley - Im sorry but I dont part out wheel sets anymore.
I had piles of 1/2/3 set wheels at my old place that I took a
bath on because everyone 'needed' a full set. Sorry.
XJ318 - Ill send you a PM. It was my wifes first car so shes
a bit wishy-washy about selling it. I was hoping if there was
some interest it would help. Its beyond fixing at this point
(id be surprised if it has any frame left at all) but if you want
to swing by some weekend and look you are more than
welcome to. -
are you firm on the price for the mustangIm not firm on any prices. We're trying to find the keys
and the title for the mustang, but it belongs to my wife
so she'll have final say. -
Photobucket Link:
http://s251.photobucket.com/us…rticle/library/Fleamarket
Items:
- 1982 Ford Mustang. 4cyl/Auto. Bad shape - mostly rust and parts. $750
- (2x) Torq Trust Wheels. New. 15x7. For 60's Mustang and Mopars - $200
- (4x) Wrangler Duratrec Tires & Jeep Wheels. Good Tread, balanced.
235/75/15s - $400
- LFW193 LuK flywheel for 1991+ 4.0L/Ax15. New. $50
- Shed Base. Big, heavy, wet. $Free
- Ford Transmission E87A? Unknown - spins freely. I think
this was pulled from an early model Ford Ranger? $50
- Door frames to unknown truck. Straight, light rust. $25
- Rear Driveshaft off 98 Xj 4dr - $10
- Advanced Adapters 716164: 716164 : Pilot Bushing .750"
ID X 1.818" OD. New. $15
- Yj Jeep Wrangler windshield Mirror (for removing doors
legally in DE. $10
- (2x) Black Decker 1/4 Ratchets. Neither work, electrical issue
that can be fixed by someone with skills. $Free
- (2x) Xj Cherokee / Mj Comanche Solid door vents. Decent
condition. $20
- Yj Wrangler Quadratex Floormats. Ugly but in one peice. $10
- Old Compressor. Tank cracked, motor cracked, pump probably
shot. Comes with extra tank. Was a beast when last ran, decided
not to rebuild and went new. $Free
- 1988 Ba10/NP231. Been sitting out in the weather for almost a
year. Spins freely but I would consider both rebuilders or cores.
If someone wants the whole setup $75 with crossmember.
- American Racing Model "J10" wheels with bad tires. I dont know
where these came from. $Free
- (4x) Jeep 9-Slot steel wheels. Rattle-can matt black with center caps.
Light rust but straight. $25
- (4x) 2009 Charger SRT Wheels. Bought these with intention of polishing
out. Finish in bad condition, paint poorly removed. Would make great
wheels for dipping, painting, but will require alot of work to restore. $400
- (3x) BB/Pellet Guns - Generic, will get details if interested. $25ea
Again, if you see something interesting or want to make an offer just hit
me up. I will bump this every time I add stuff. Thanks! -
Can't seem to get the link to work?
Yeah... facebook wont allow the album to link. Im working on
uploading the pics from my phone now... -
Ive decided to clean up the wooded area behind
my garage and have a ton of stuff for sale. Heres the
link to my facebook album - the hoarder in me is
trying to keep it all so I put prices on everything. If you
see something you like, PM me or txt 84l - 2I double 7s
(delaware area code.) Im not keen on giving stuff away,
but I am eager to get it out of here before the real winter
sets in...https://www.facebook.com/#!/ty…3741833.1656595158&type=3
I'll add stuff as I unearth it - if you see it pictured its still
here! -
Saddly "moved" doesnt equal "discontinued."
The problem i have with all the recent concepts is the
same. The Fc100, J12, Gladiator, and Chief are all based
on the JKU which isnt strong or tough enough for real
pickup work. I love my Mj, but still have my Ram for when
i need to move something bigger than a set of tires. Ill
warn you now itll be the same complaint ill have with the
upcoming Grand Wagoneer too because it also looks to
be built from Commander/JKU stock...As for the question of "would i want to drive a ram with a
Jeep badge on it?"... now thats a question i need to thi...
.... Yes! Absolutely! Take my money!... Build me a Power
Wagon with a Honcho brand and not make it resemble
the currebt abortion they call a cherokee and im in... -
My winter goals are A) learning to weld, 2) learning to wire, and
D) learning to rebuild a differential... during that time ill be taking
apart Gracie with the hopes of having her ready for paint come
March. With those three things accomplished i should have at
least one jeep back on the road by fall... -
Tried to do business with hesco once... $5000 chevy
motor... plus shipping... plus handling... plus boxing...
plus taxes... plus employee lunches... plus cable fees...
plus 1.99 a minute per call...okay, maybe not all of that is true, but you get the idea...
-
I write this as a cautionary guide to anyone looking to do this swap – nothing
goes as planned.
First I want to thank everyone who assisted me on this little ride on the
drama train. Despite the end result and my current frustration I don’t want to
come off unappreciative. I am really grateful for the help of so many people
on four different forums – I couldn’t have gotten to this point without you. I
want to especially thank my good friend Nick who spent several of his valuable
nights getting covered in oil and rust on my behalf.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
For years I’ve heard on here (and the yahoo group, and the jeepforum, and my
local group DelawareJA) that the Ba10 to Ax15 is an easy, almost “bolt-in”
swap that is considered an improvement on almost all levels. I was sold… truth
be known, maybe I still am, but this swap was anything but simple and quick.
Quick rundown of events:
- Bought 1998 XJ Ax15/NP231 and front D30 $500.00
- LuK Flywheel LFW193 - $74.96
- LuK Clutch Kit 05-901 - $198.93
- Luk Slave Cylinder LSC309 - $40.51
- Advanced Adapter Clutch Pilot Bushing 716164 - $27.42
Started the teardown. Realized the previous owner did a lot of custom wiring
and backyard fixes. Took Longer than I expected. Eventually the old Ba10 was
out of the truck and sitting in the driveway. After numerous attempts the old
clutch pilot bearing would not come out. I tried the “paper towel trick” the
“grease trick” and the “bolt trick.” Ended up having to purchase a dedicated
bearing puller that ended up being too big for the bearing and too small for
the puller. Needed to “rent” a puller from Autozone and grind down my new
tool. After three hours of beating the hell out of it, the bearing eventually
sheared apart and was able to be removed.
- OTC Bearing Puller 4421 - $18.96
Once the bearing was out I began the long process of cleaning EVERYTHING and
beginning the install process. First thing I discovered was the supposed ’74
304 bushing I was sent wasn’t even close to fitting… by inches… Build stopped
awaiting new bushing.
- Omix-Ada Clutch Pilot Bushing 16910.04 - $2.98
While researching bushing I come across knowledge that I cannot use the Ax15
flywheel on the new setup.
- Luk Flywheel LFW194 - $58.54
Installed Bushing, Flywheel, and clutch with no issue. Installed the
transmission. The included Xj crossmember had a TC skid attached that required
grinding off. I matched up the “Ax15” crossmember mounting holes and it
appeared they have never been threaded. No problem.
- Irwin M10x1.5 Thread Tap - $8.95.
Tapped all but one mounting hole before tap broke. Went back to the store for
another tap – sold out.
- Irwin M10x1.25 Thread Tap - $8.95
Once threaded I discovered the old studs from the Ba10 needed to be cut off
for the new crossmember to fit. First unplanned modification. Cut the studs.
The crossmember does not fit. Another entire night spent forcing it into place
until finally it clicks. All bolts, CPS, and starter installed. Take the jack
stand out and the transmission is officially in.
Now for the slave cylinder. The old slave has a stud and bolt combo, but the
98 Xj master does not. Take the Dremel to the stud. Second unplanned
modification. Once I clean up the firewall I run the slave cylinder down
through the motor and start lining everything up. The 98 Xj master cylinder
does not fit between the brake booster and fuse box. More research shows I now
need a 1995 Xj master cylinder.
- Sachs SPH011 Clutch Master/Slave Assembly - $122.95
New Master is setup for old firewall. Forced to now drill out old stud and
replace with bolt.
- Grade 8 Bolt and Nut - $2.25
Finally install new Clutch Master cylinder and move inside. The new master
cylinder push rod does not fit pedal assembly. Ended up having to drill out
the plunger loop which is now uncomfortably thin in my opinion.
- Dewalt ½ Drill Bit - $4.95
Move underneath the truck. Install the slave cylinder without incident. Go to
install the 1998 clutch shift linkage. Does not fit, not even close.
Inspection reveals I do not need a transfer case shift linkage, but the
bracket that mounts to the inner transmission tunnel. The part that fits to
the floorpan. The old 98 has long been scrapped at this point so I ended up
doing some more shopping. Needed to buy another complete shift linkage from
another junkyard.
- OEM Shift Linkage with correct Bracket - $50
Go to install bracket and the floor under t paint is completely gone. Unable
to install. After some research I discovered a vender who makes a linkage that
does not install to the body work.
- Boostwerks Engineering 1023-2 Shift Linkage - $45.98
Boostwerks shift linkage bolts on with no issues at all. Time for the drive
shafts. 2 of the five U-joints have deteriorated beyond use. Decide to replace
all.
- (5x) Spicer 5153X U-Joint Kit - $65.40
Front driveshaft goes in without issue, but rear driveshaft is now way too
long to install. After review, with no good explanation as to why, finally
decide to just cut shaft.Third unplanned Modfication.
- Driveshaft Shortened 2.25in by Accubilt Salisbury - $92.50
Rear driveshaft installed, but concerns that it may still be too long for
permanent use. Go to start motor and truck does not run. Pull old CPS and
install new Autozone one.
- Duralast Crank Position Sensor SU3228 - $30.99
Truck doesn’t start. With no spark the only other option is the CmPS.
- Standard Motor Products LX234 Ignition Pick Up - $6.95
Truck doesn’t start. Purchase a quality (read: not from AutoZone) CPS from a
reliable source.
- Airtex 5S1799 Crankshaft Position Sensor - $38.99
Truck doesn’t start. Exhaustive diagnostic points to a bad CPS. Go to second
Mj (Scarlet,) verify it starts and runs as it should. Pull Scarlets CPS,
install it on Gracie. Gracie does not start. Install new Airtex on Scarlet,
starts right up. In a Hail-Mary attempt I drill out the 5/16 upper hole on the
original CPS to 3/8 and re-install. Truck starts, runs rough.
Still need reverse lights and a shift knob, but neither are critical.
Change drive train fluids, engine, transmission, and transfer case.
On the 99th day of a 3 day transmission swap the truck is ready to run. I
close up everything, take her for a couple of neighborhood runs and everything
feels tight and ready. Take her out on the highway – transmission develops a
VERY loud tick of metal on metal. It has no reliable 3rd gear and the syncro
is completely gone in reverse requiring it to be ground into gear to back up.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------So 380 total days and $1,401.16 later I am right back where I started. Driving
a jeep whose transmission is going to leave me on the side of the road sooner
than later… -
Havent heard back from the seller, but if it
has a black interior ill gladdly split the cost... -
Apparently in 96 they switched to an external slip yoke on the
NP231s. The yoke itself is the same length, but no longer
recesses into the tailhousing like before. General consenus
on the other sites is that is where i lost the lenght...Driveshaft needs to be cut...
-
A ba10 and the ax15 are the same length so the original ds should be fine.
See above pic... its not even close... The only things I changed were adding the
Spicer 5-153x ujoints and the Xj slip yoke. It mounts fine and bottoms out on the
output shaft from the TCase. Theres at least a 2in diffence between the this and
the old setup...
Someone elsewhere mentioned the tailhousing is a different length past 97, but
I cannot find any documentation to confirm that. Theres only one place down here
to shorten a shaft so I will probably need to take two days off of work to fix this... -
Finishing up my Ba10 to Ax15 swap. On an 88/4.0/4x4/Mj. New
transmission is from a 98 Xj.
According to the parts list the Ax15-D35 combo has a 50" driveshaft,
and the Ba10-D35 combo has a 50" driveshaft. By all accounts this
shaft should have at LEAST 1" of play on the yoke. But... if you bottom
out the yoke on the TCase this happens at the rear:
I think if I jack the rear up high enough I can force it onto the mount, but
then Im worried that if I hit a large enough bump itll push the shaft up
through the TCase..
I'l be an effort to take this to be cut (because of work schedule) so before I
do does anyone see something I might have missed? -
The comanche guys swear by this mod, but theyre
definately wishy-washy about which injector mod is
"best." One of those things though - if you get them
cheap enough its not a major undertaking so... -
On the Mj it doesnt look like theres an adjustment,
but i dont know if it can be bent, cut, ect...
-
When i run a voltmeter over the CPS while cranking
i get a 0.01 reading that holds steady. My understanding
Is that it should go 0.01, 0.04, 0.01, ect... to show its
reading the flywheel.Question - is it possible nethier CPS is reading the
flywheel because theyre not close enough? And if
so, how does one adjust the CPS on the bellhousing? -
Unless I missed something you still haven't answered
the question about flywheel you used. Did you retain
the factory flywheel or swap to a different one?The new flywheel is a LuK LFW194. Its the correct part
number and it looked exactly like the OEM, but with no
engraved numbers on it i have no way of knowing (now)
if it was the right one...
