Posts by rstiles

"[size=11px]I've been running a Garrett 60/48 turbocharger on my 1999 TJ now for about 5 years" thats in the OP's 2nd sentence. then later he said he was thinking of selling it in 2006 to spend more time with his kids not because it blew. [/size]

[size=11px]if you want reliable then buy a vehicle with a great service record and dont mod it! the op wants to add a turbo and asked for tips, not negative hear say. lots of people have turbos on motors not designed for turbos. [/size][size=11px]all the post i read, the people that did not like the idea said it was cause of the money. which is obviously not the case for this build since he has most of the components he needs [/size][size=11px] some people were not meant to stay inside the box. [/size]

Quote from 95wrangler4life

the damn 4.0 blocks are stronger blocks and able to handle more power, thats why they are made into strokers. We are talking about a weak engine as it is, the 2.5 does NOT do well, so do your own searching, post up sucessful articles on the 2.5 and not the 4.0... you will find a few people who have done it to the 2.5 and you will see that after some time, they admit it was the biggest waste of money because the gain was basically nothing when they could and usually end up swapping to a 4.0 or V8 when they blow up the 2.5 in less than a year...

Its not hating, those of us who have 4cyl have researched ways to get more power and know this is not the way....

sounds like this guy was happy for the 5 years he got out of it when he posted
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/for…chive/index.php/t-76.html
and there are some happy people in this tread to
http://forums.jpmagazine.com/7…-or-supercharg/index.html

if you do it right your not going to blow the motor. you can't expect to push 30psi on a stock motor. but most cars can handle up to 4-8. and reading the forums about the 2.5 turbo sounds like a great option for saving weight and still have some power.

Quote from deadfeat

Did you also notice the spun / brushed steel look in the paint? Nice effect.

love the paint and the grill

you can build a turbo system including fuel management for under a grand. especially if you have some components already go for it! lets hear some spoolin!

let the haters hate. i'm not sure why you guys are stifling his idea. its going to be a build thread worth following. post up your progress i would love to see and hear that thing. and the best part is peoples reactions to a loud BOV in a jeep and nothing like that turbo feel its an addiction

i know this is a 4.0 but the guy spent 1027.. lets see some one find a 4.0 and a trans plus all the brackets and bits need to retro fit it for that price. grocery list is on page 4. your going to have more room them him to do you build
http://naxja.org/forum/showthr…ighlight=low+budget+turbo

i am planing to turbo my 6cyl. one thing i was talking to a friend of mine we started looking at placement of the turbo and decided its probably a good idea to get it high in the engine bay for the reason of minimizing the chance of dipping it in a mud puddle when its glowing. i know the Cherokees are notorious for engine compartment heat build up. so may be some hood vents to clear the extra heat that will build. you might be able to retro fit a sti top mount inter-cooler in a wrangler there might be enough room and i'm sure you can get one for cheap from someone that did a front mount on their car. i would def get a inter cooler of some sort. in the thread below the guy uses a water to air inter-cooler i think would really help a install on a wrangler too. but i think you would have much more room for a turbo system them me. what turbo do you have? is it sized right for the 2.5? seems with the 4.0 the safe psi is around 8 any more and there is concern for detonation. not sure with the 4cyl but i bet its similar.

and i know this is a 4.0 but and this guys system was 3400 and epic

How To: Build your own 4.0L turbo Cummins (Beware...170+ pics)

love it. The only time I hit boost is in 4HI going up a loose grade or plowing through a mud pool, so it's perfect. In 4 [color=rgb(255, 0, 0)]low[/color] it is almost impossible to build boost since there is very little load on the engine. Some would think that would be a bad thing, but A. I've never felt the need for more power in 4 [color=rgb(255, 0, 0)]Low[/color] and B. It would only lead to more breakage.

Dan, I do hit full boost around 2600 on average but that is only in 2HI on the street. Spool up is entirely load and gear dependant. For instance, cruising up a hill in over drive (60-70mph) I can hit 5-6lbs of boost at only 1800!

clicky for thread

i have 30s bfg ats on mine right now with 3" lift. it really does not look atrocious. if you went higher then that it would start to look goofy. but i would say your springs are tired not the shocks. my rear leaf snapped forcing me to get a suspension under it. at the time i had no money but got Rustys 3" i have heard people complain about it but i like it. it is a rough ride but i have the higher spring rate. also don't forget a 1" transfer case drop. you are going to get drive line vibrations. unless you want keep replacing u-joints.

here is a chart of tire sizes to lift but i think its just a recommendation. i def think i can fit something larger i probably can fit 33s with bumps and minor trimming. im getting 33s next round of tires

your going to need springs forget about the blocks, shackles and coil spacer kits. and what ever you do do not get an add a leaf. they are a cheap fix but if your springs are tired then it will just sag again then your back to where you are now.

and whats wrong with ramen? i still eat that because of my jeep addiction

this morning i threw some codes

p0141-fault- O2 sensor #2 heater circuit
p0135-pending- o2 sensor #1 heater circuit
p0138-pending- o2 sensor #2 circuit high voltage

does this shed any light?

99 4.0l 5sp xj

ok strange idle. i need help with the diagnostic. check engine light came on the other night. o2 sensor 1 and 2 high voltage. and it was running rough got under found out sensor 2 the wire came out of the clip and was rubbing against the ujoint. it took the sheathing off the o2 sensor so i just taped them since the wire did not look damaged. and i also replaced the IAC because its been staying at high idle at lights for a while.

sooo it is still acting weird but no codes.

when i start it up cold it is fine and normal idle speed. i let it warm up and then it starts bogging down to maybe 600 rpm or less and just before it stalls it gives itself some gas and brings it up to 1100 rpm and drops all over again. i let it run like that for a while and it never corrected itself so i pulled the batt cables and clamped them together for awhile to reset the ecu. same issue after it sat for a while.

oh and i also changed the prv on the back of the valve cover cause i had an extra around and i though i could smell oil (could have been my garage though)

Quote from clendaniel

Heh...didn't think anyone actually caught that.

Both are good choices IMHO, just depends on personal pref. Sounds to me like Jerry wants something a little more sedate than his XJ and possibly make things a little simpler cheaper w/ only having maintenance/expenses for a single vehicle.

Go ahead w/ the JK, Jerry...just don't be surprised if you go w/ a 4dr and there's a car seat in there after a meeting...just sayin'

--Ian

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dude i almost missed it. i click by mistake and it highlighted your white letters.
now i know how to talk trash on this forums

yeah the only nice thing about having that second car is if you break something you dont have to bus/walk or bike to work oh and some gas efficiency

Quote from clendaniel

Bah...webwheelers.

Comes down to personal preference, you're gonna buy what appeals to you. If you want a 15yr old glorified station wagon...XJ You want a mini-hummer? JK for sure. Either one will clear the parking blocks at the mall just fine.

--Ian

wait mine is only 12 and is on the 10 cars that just won't die list. i love my station wagon when its all jacked up on mountain dew. coming at the terrain like a spider monkey! and i get hummers all the time in my xj i mean get them unstuck

i was not getting dark. def a good debate. its alway good to hear others conception

Quote from KnoxRents

rstiles....I'll save you the trouble of trying to figure it out. I can't get into it right now but your numbers are a little off.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/rev…2007/dimensions/index.asp
http://scott_cj8.tripod.com/scrmbpg.html
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html
http://www.jeephorizons.com/tech/2007_unlimited_spec.html

You should come out and wheel with us at RC sometime. I'd love to give you a tour.

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yeah i know! read my post

lowest point of the body is 3" above wheel center line and 30" tires. i used that for all 3 wheelbases and body length so it would be a fair compare. when you start changing body heights and wheel sizes all those numbers are going to be different. the unlimited has almost exactly the same break over and almost exactly the same wheel base as the xj. both are less then the TJ, KJ and JK 2dr and more then the JK 4dr. the patriot has a better break over then the JK 4dr. out off all the jeeps available the jk 4dr is the worst break over!

sorry if you feel you have to prove me wrong. i hear what your saying but what you posted verifies my half assed numbers.

oh and the scrambler and unlimited had a 103" WB

Quote from KnoxRents

I think you are confusing wheel base with body length.

i am def not confused since i was talking about approach, departure and break over angles. body length and wheel base directly effect whether you get hung up on something. limos stretch the middle so the front and back look like the standard size vehicle. where if you elongate the body but only stretch the wheelbase half that distance you will have a much more capable vehicle. i just drew it out on autocad with the lowest point being 3" higher then the centerline of the tires and a 30" dia tire. the 3 vehicles compare as follows (wish i could post the drawing but i'm limited at work) for break over angles jk 2dr 21deg jk4dr 17 deg and the xj is at 20 deg.

so where the xj and the 2dr drive over obstacle the 4dr turns into a seesaw

for all three to have a comparable angle of 21 for break over angles it would have to have 37" tires while the xj would need 32 and 2dr jk would only need 30".

the jk 2dr and the jk 4dr still have the same approach angles give or take a degree. i can't calculate the approach and departure angles because i don't know if the wheelbase is centered on the body or not. i know the xj is not. but if they were all centered on the bodys... the 2dr is 36deg the 4dr is 35 deg and the xj is 30deg.

my point is i would still rather drive an XJ (if i had to buy a new one id buy a kk or kj and swap and axle in the front ) sorry for the high jack jerry.

Quote from KnoxRents

Ummmm. It's added to the belly area because that is where the second set of seats is. If you are stretching a wheel base, won't it all get added to the belly?

Personally I like the wheel base as it sits.

not necessarily take the scrambler or unlimited for instance.

Quote from quadna

JK is around 95", XJ is around 101", and JKU is around 116".

yeah thats right but the jk 4dr has the same approach departure angles as the 2dr but a longer mid section . and the jk is only 6" longer then the xj. i think its crazy there is 20 inches deference between the 2 and 4dr and its all added to the belly. i want to know why the longer wheelbase solid axle jeep option is just a limo version of the wrangler?

Quote from jeffsjk

For those with a JK, free clutch bypass. Put in 4lo don't push the clutch in and crank it over, can be in or out of gear it will start.

that still does not help if your not in 4low stalled on a steep. i would still bypass the clutch not like its hard or free anyways.

i saw the cosmo blue for the first time last night and love that color.

don't give in and get rid of the xj! your going to miss the wheelbase!

that didn't look real at first sweet picture

hopefully get some time to install my new axles with the new gears. and rebuild the 4.0 in my garage as the 4.6-4.7 turbo i have been planing. im still not set on which route im going to stroke it yet. also finally build my 1.5" lift shackle to complete my suspension.

not sure if this is old or not

ok that did not work
http://vimeo.com/8709629

maybe on other vehicles. i have always gotten lots of axle wrap on my XJs. i never ran blocks and have had a set of leafs completely snap in half at the u-bolts. but if you drive like a grand mom then any configuration will work.

this is the wrong place to discuss this.

on with the mods!

Quote from shadyluke

There isn't anything wrong with a 1 inch block. A lot of vehicles come with that or more from the factory. Its the really tall blocks or stacked blocks that can cause real issues.