Good update, Jim. How about capping the top of it at that seam? Have Drew use his brake to bend up a "C" channel cap that you slide over the top.
Posts by quadna
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If you go wheeling it people will not like following you on the trails.
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...but I will guilt trip you for months
True story.
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If you mean flat, look at Grand Wagoneer arms. This is what I came up with via google.
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- He may have been referring to the caster adjustment washers at the axle mounts of the front lower control arms on some TJs. Welded tabs on the outside of the mounts, combined with captive washers with holes drilled off-center, come together to create a sort eccentric cam adjusting point that can usually be good for +-1° of caster. I'm sorry I can't recommend any place up north to take it but there are a few websites that can help talk you through a driveway alignment. Google "Stu Off-road" and navigate in his site a little. Wealth of TJ knowledge in there.
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Sent you a message about the wheels & tires.
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Here's a pretty knowledgeable website to help you pick out a cable.
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What mount did you buy?
For standard CB coax, RG-58 cable has been the gold standard for years. If you want to spend a little more money on the coax, maybe spring for RG-8X instead? It is a little bigger diameter and might be tougher to route in certain locations, but it can take more abuse over the years. Basically, -59 is thinner so can be routed easier but it more susceptible to damage if/when you kink it. Conversely, -8X isn't as convenient to route due to not bending quite as well, but if you do have to bend it the braided core takes it better than the solid core found inside the -59.
18' is the standard length that seems to do well in most Jeeps. Make sure you choose the correct end where it connects to your mount - either the barrel plug (PL-259) or the newer ring connector. Ring connector has the advantage of routing the cable directly sideways from the mount. I've never used the ring connector but it seems like more kits are starting to come with them.
Amazon is fine for ordering the coax - it'll be a basic generic cable that will work fine for your everyday Jeeper. If you want to get something a little more robust/reputable, then maybe catch up with Jerry ( @whatevah ) as he is much smarter than the average bear in regards to mobile communications.
Lastly, I think there is an SWR meter that may be floating around the club. You'd use the meter to help tune your antenna to fit your installation. If it isn't available, then I'm sure one of the shops listed above could help you tune it for a small fee. I had one for years, but the last club member to "borrow" it hasn't had the time to return it.
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Sign up list:
1. Stafford
2. Sandtostand
3. Kuntryboy816 (possibly +3)
4. quadna (possibly bringing along Icky) -
Stafford is correct. I had one in my hitch before, but was failed because it was below the side lights. they said it "has to make a triangle that points up" right now, I have one in the center of my tire and it is only a few inches above my side lights, but it passes no questions asked
You should have told them that it was a Jeep and you were just being prepared in the event you roll over
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Why remove the light bar?
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He came to his senses
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That isn't accurate any further back than April '04...those dates were reset when the forum was moved back then and we had to re-register.
I lurked for a while on the original board running out of Steve's house before finally joining sometime in '02 and have been a paid member ever since. I remember fondly those early trailrides in my MJ at Paragon and camping at RC when you could still camp out at camp C and not in the parking lot.
--Ian
Those concrete steps were DeJA's first unofficial RTI ramp.
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I joined in May/June of '02, but I think my paid membership lapsed for one year and was only a guest that year. So I've been around for a while but not a constant paid member.
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Can't forget @wanderlust and @joelove too. Maybe even a few others we're missing.
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And, here's the bumper that I did 2 weeks ago. Still need to drill a hole to mount the air quick connect and then mount lights inside the center openings.
Does the spare clear the trailer wiring well? Looks like it might be close.
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If you get it out squirt some lubricant into the key slot.
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I think the lock cylinder probably doesn't need to be lubed - he just replaced it so it's new. But the cable that runs from the lock cylinder down to the console shifter needs to be either adjusted, lubricated (maybe both of these), or replaced completely and then adjusted. I wonder if lubing it with a good dry lubricant or a teflon spray would be better than your standard WD-40 or PB Blaster? The key would be to somehow get enough in the cable housing that it will work it's way all the way past where the liner is probably worn and causing the bind. Or, just replace the darn thing so she doesn't have a repeat of the problem. Looks like you can find them all over the internet starting around $20 and up.
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Why don't you tell us a little about your Jeep? How is it put together right now and do you have any plans to do work on it in the future?
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What sort of aftermarket electronic devices are you running on the XJ? These days most electronics are more efficient than 20 years ago and the OEM alternator couple with a decent battery may be just fine.
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We smell coolant from time to time with our JKU too but I've not been able to pinpoint it. Might be time to dig a little deeper.
