On my YJ just had to flip the wires LEDs are ground sesitive. You don't want to go to the turn sig wire then they won't work as marker lites just turn sigs.
Posts by Forestry17
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BAD IDEA!!! A35in tire is heavy to pick up and put on a bumper rack. I wouldn't want to put it on the roof! -
Installed my 2013 DeJA Member sticker
!! Now if I can get her to RC and hit the trails 
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NAPA over Pepboys any day!! Never had any luck wiyh Pepboys,parts didn't last (if they gave me the right part)and NAPAs price was better.
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Personally, I go to NAPA.X2
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Don't wast your money on a used cat
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I did have 1 optima go bad and found out it wasn't the same as the 1st one I got.The1st is still my 2nd batt in the YJ (8yrs old and it jumped the bad batt till I replaced it)the one that went bad was a lower CCA.the one I got from Qtec was identical to the jumpstart batt.Stomper just put one in the loader he has.Can't say any bad about Diehard my dad ran them for years.Just stay away from Pep Boys batterys!!!When I did AAA road service 90% of the jumpstarts I did were bad Pep Boys batterys.I wouldn't use them in a lawn mower!
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Call Northfield 4X4 Lehighton Pa 610-377-3992 Jerry is the his name he may have one. That is where I got most of the parts to rebuild my YJ when I rolled it. Not open on Mon and on sat open till Noon
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I have a Optima Red Top and no problems at all. I was sick and it sat for a week and fired up with no problem Qtec Pt#17003.01 with disc I paid $172.00
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I have a HF 8K winch. Was on my full size GMC Jimmy for 5yrs the YJ for 4yrs and beat the crap out of it!! Burned up the moter called and got a new one paid $116 shiped used it for another year(till I got a deal on a Desert Dynamics 9K) now the HF winch is under the bed of the F250 to drag crap on my gooseneck,and for recovery duty. All told not a bad deal IMO.Stomper has the same 12K can't recall the brand same as a HF.For $50 I'd go with the 12K.
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Remove anything on the inner fender,remove the 4(iirc)bolts at the rear of the fender(bolts into the body)and the bolts at the grill.
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what was happening was at a stop my jeep would start to sputter out then jump up in rpms and i was going to get around to fix it but never did then last friday at work i went to leave and my jeep started but sputterd right out it did this about 4 times then would not start at all i had plenty of pressure at the rail and no fuses were blown i went to check my recently changed tps and it broke in half when i went to pull the clip from it so i went and replaced it and jeep still wouldnt start so i lefft it thier then the next day i went out and i got it and it started right up and starts up great every time but after bout 5 minutes of driving mu check engine light appears, i had computer read and since i get code 35 i belive my replaced computer is from a xj. since i get code 21 i bought a new o2 sensor and replaced it last night and my light came on again. my jeep doesnt run wierd but i noticed while i was under it and had it runniong it startred to stall then jumperd up in rpms while at idle. then continued to run fine. i do have some exhaust leaks because i can hear them not sure if thats a huge problem??? if so i will go get everything welded up new if this will fix my problem. any input would be great cause im at a dead end i all within the last 6000 miles i have replaced cap pluges wires sizzy tps crank sensor cam shaft sensor ignition coil. and im still not sure on problem. iff anyone could chime in i would greatly appreciate it its a 1995 jeep wrangler yj 4.0 with aw4 trans and 95000 miles on drive train thank you
i went to a local mechanic and he told me he thinks its my fuel pump but i didnt think of listening to my pump when it wouldnt start since i had pressure at rail. he said the pump could cause my o2 sensor to throw a code iive never changed the pump and the pump had almost 200000 miles on it . im not 100 percent sure if its ever been changed due to the fact that im like the 4th owner of the jeep.Holy run on Batman
!! Not to bust balls try punctuation and use caps when needed!! -
A buddy did a diesel Scrambler with a Nissan 4cyl about 15yrs ago still runs strong
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Since its not a Quadra trac, should be a Tourque Flite TF-999 but since it was a cross over year it could also be a GM TH400 (1976 to 1979), but more than likely its the TF.(1980-86)Yup should be a TF999
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Just stay away from PepBoys when I did AAA Towing/Road service 90% of the jumps I did were PepBoys batterys usualy less than a yr old. Others will differ but I have had luck with Optima Red Tops got my last one at Qtec IIRC $170.00 (with discount) My back-up in the YJ is 8yrs old and still works great. A plus is it's a sealed gel batt (no corroded terminals)
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FWIW Get your money back!!
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Now if we could just get Percy to reduce the size of his signature, we'd really feel like we accomplished something.
DONE!!!! Thanks Stomper! -
I just want to say Thank You to the DEJA BOD and Moderators for doing the right thing. It takes a "set" to police a group like this in as fair a way as possible, I hate using the word police like that but it seems that sometimes it has to be.
Great work!x2
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FWIW Painless is a top notch kit/company. A buddy who builds street rods uses only Painless worth the extra $$
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Sounds to me like it isn't mounted properly,or the rear crossbember is cracked/weak.
