Posts by Slimer

    My guess is your exhaust manifold came loose from the engine. Take a 9/16" socket with a long extension and make sure all the bolts that hold it to the head are tight. They can loosen up from the heating and cooling of the exhaust. Also check where the down pipe hooks up to the header. A stock exhaust has a cone shaped donut that fits in between the two pipes and crushes to seal up the joint. They are pretty cheap.

    The safest bet would be to remove the valve cover. How do you know you don't already have plastic bits falling into the valve train when you try turning the cap?

    If your locker was just "not disengaging" it wouldn't make grinding noises while going straight. I think it might be more serious unfortunately but it's hard to say without experiencing it first hand. I've heard problems of ARBs blowing when hooked to Dana 30's or 44's with 35" tires. But I think Aaron told me that it has something to do with the installation. With those tires your running, I'd go with the better (stronger).


    Maybe it's time to set up a Dana 44 for the front? I've kicked that around myself but I just don't wheel enough and don't see myself wheeling enough anytime in the near future to make it worthwhile.

    I run the Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials and love them. They were great on the road and really dig in off the road. They throw mud off real well. Their only drawback that I see is that they wear out fast. They say they are siped but I bet if the lugs were siped better the tread life would be increased. Look at only getting about 20,000 miles out of a set if you do a lot of highway miles. Because of this I wouldn't get them for a daily driver. I only put about 4000 miles a year on my Jeep so it wasn't as much of a concern with me.


    One thing that I find unacceptable about them is their 33" tires only measure 31½" tall. I don't know how they get away with that but it's not right. But it's something to consider if you are looking for 32" tires.

    You will have to take most of the crap off the exhaust side of the engine to get to the exhaust/intake manifold bolts. On a CJ, the exhaust and intake manifolds share the same bolts. I imagine the TJ is the same. It's a pain. Only install the exhaust finger tight until it is all assembled. Then start tightening everything down starting with the header and working your way back.


    Don't do it on a day when you only have a few hours. It can become a weekend project very fast.


    I think it will be more like "The new improved Orange LATTE.." instead of the same old Orange Crush. :rollsmile:


    I'm sorry to hear you are retiring her. It was one of my favorites in the club. If you need any help give me a call. I have some steal, a CJ floor mount roll bar and am willing to help out where I can.


    Look out NIKKI! Tom will be borrowing your Jeep NOW!

    I think it's time to put a lift on the Libby so they will be the same height! There's a good gift to get her for Mother's Day1!


    It doesn't look like your Jeep will fit in the garage any more.

    You need to shave weight because bigger tires are naturally heavier and it is taking more energy to keep the heavier mass rolling. You can try going to a lighter wheel. That will help a little but I'm not sure how much. Gearing it lower will make it easier to spin the bigger tires but it will also take away from your top speed. They are probably your best options.

    You are fine with 33's and 3.73 gearing. You should only be a few hundred rpm's under stock. I wouldn't bother going to 4.10s from 3.73s. 4.10's would put you nearer the stock rpm range but if you are going to 35's you will need 4.27's or 4.56's to get back to stock rpm range. If you want to change gears go to one of these instead. If you have an overdrive, go with the 4.56.

    I have a picture of soldiers using a Jeep to power a table saw, but I can't upload anything. I've also read where the military experiments with mounting an anti-tank gun to a Jeep (50 caliber I think) but the recoil was too much for the suspension.

    The PAJeep show is a good show. It takes me a good 2 hours to get there. I prefer going the back way through Union, Red Lion, and then to York. It's a more scenic drive. I think it is MD Rt. 1 to Rt. 472, then to Rt. 372, and then to Rt. 74. I've missed the last couple shows but their obstacle course is stocker freindly and they usually have a rock garden for the more serious rigs. They typically have a good selection of vendors, including Quadratech, and Hoak's, and a good number of people selling used stuff. I plan on going this year and would be interested in helping out. I'm a member of their club after all.

    They make a "bridge" type tabbed washer that bridges between two ring bolts and once the bolts are tightened the tab is bent up against the hex head of the bolt. This prevents the bolts from loosening.


    Stop by sometime and I can show you. I have them in a Dana 44 that is opened in my garage.

    What is it? I have some stainless steel pressure bombs I got from work that you could use. I think they are good for 2000 psi. I'm not sure if they would work since I'm not sure how the evaporater works.