Posts by Slimer

    Selling my truck. Many of you are familiar with it. Single owner.

    • 5.2L V8 with 195000 miles. Oil and filter changed every 3000 miles. Needs a water pump. Motor runs strong and have always loved it's torque!
    • Radiator was replaced about 2 or 3 years ago.
    • Front brakes recently done but does need a passenger side rotor
    • New dash top (old one was cracked as they all do)
    • New fuel pump within the last year
    • Transmission has started to slip but I believe it's linkage related.
    • 3.54 gear with limited slip. She hooks up pretty good
    • New rear shocks on the back

    Not coating anything, it's dented, has the typical rust, and looks rough. I'm one of few people in the world that actually use a truck as a truck.

    $1000 or best offer

    john the mj in the pic would have the renix fi system.

    Initially it said a YJ 4.0L motor which is why I questioned whether or not it was EFI.

    I figured it would have been a Renix motor regardless though. Never knew what it was about those motors that made people shy away from them.

    Trying to think of everything that happens when the engine warms up. If the intake had a crack in it or there was a bad gasket, would the motor heating up make that crack expand (opening it up) or expand (pushing either side of the crack together tighter)?

    '89 YJ is not fuel injected (I think) and I don't believe that was a good motor (Renix motor). Find out more about the motor and what transmission is behind it.

    Idle issue is probably just be a leaking vacuum hose. Since it happens when as it warms up I would look at the vacuum actuated temp control sensor which is probably screwed into the side of the block on the driver side.

    You might be able to determine if the gears have been done by driving it; if it seems sluggish from a stop or shifts at odd speeds then it probably hasn't been re-geared.

    There are a few guys on here that can do it. Aastape, Shadyluke, and I believe another one who I can't think of at the moment.

    If you want to go to a regular body shop, I recommend Accurate Collision. Friend of mine is part owner. Small shop that does great work. Most of their work is insurance related but they are both hot rodders and their way around custom work.

    Inspect the soundness of the entire floor pan. If the rest looks good, I'd probably cut the area out back to good metal and patch it with a piece of sheet metal. Then coat everything with a good rust proofer.

    Welcome to our little corner of the internet world! There are regular trips to Rausch Creek and the Anthrocite place I believe. I'm sure you will find something you're looking for.

    You can try tightening up the 3 bolts on the mirror body but if it's loose then you the inside probably rusted. I'd probably just get new ones. I don't think they are too expensive.

    I'm going to say NO, you don't need a new PCM. Idle issues, and issues of stalling while coming down from higher RPMs (coming to a stop light or sign) can be caused by other things.

    • the IAC (idle air control) sensor could be gunked up or need replaced. This bolts onto the side of your throttle body. Easy to removed, clean up, and install.
    • While you're at it, pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning too
    • How about your vacuum lines and their connections? The Fuel pressure relief valve vacuum line runs off manifold vacuum.
    • Another possibility "might" be the temperature sensor that tells the computer how to set the fuel mixture (works like a choke sort of)

    So don't give up hope yet. I bet it's something simple.

    I personally like the 2nd video better because the girl explains things really well and you have to give her props for doing it in sub-freezing weather.

    Saw this on a FB group. I like it. Painted this would be pretty sweet. With so many people have spare parts / parts vehicles around, I'm surprised no one has done this yet.

    Custom Jeep Pickup