Posts by Karvor

Reading my mind there astape, am planning on doing the double triangulated rear with a 3 link front (upper link coming from the drivers side). Not going that heavy duty on the johnny's though, going small for the uppers, 2", and lowers at 2.5". Gonna cut up the belly skid and fab a new skid plate to bring the t-case up and get a little more clearance, while integrating the transmember to recieve the second triangulation from the lower arms. Going to make all the brackets from plate stock, since i'm cheap, and only putting money into the project as i have it to spare means i have lots of time too LOL. Got a hell of a deal off ebay the other day, 4 of the 2" johnny's for 36 bucks.

Again i agree with Astape on both points. Normal wear on the teeth, it shows the old starters bendix was getting weak and not kicking out hard enough. And oh yeah big problems with only 1 bolt left in the starter. How tight was that 1 bolt?

I would not worry about tearing up the new starter, with a new properly working bendix it shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for all the replies and good info there guys! I have been trying to feel out exactly what the wife is gonna do in the Jeep and seeings as how I have never seen her offroad, I think i have decided on (still arguing with myself in my head) making up my own long arm setup with johnny joints and lift coil springs and shocks on stock axles until i figure out what she needs to enjoy wheeling. Then once she get bit by the wheeling bug I might be able to talk her into a vacation to Moab ;D

When dealing with electronics components i usually go OE, but for a starter in my experience one is as good as another, except i do see a lot brand new PepBoys starters come through the shop that are bad. Disproportionately so to other suppliers.

The starter can get 'bad spots' in them, where if it comes t orest in one position it cranks up fine due to good connection or good windings, whatever the issue. And if it stops at a 'dead spot' or burnned point on the armature it can draw excessive amps and cause a problem. Honestly without an amp probe for your multimeter you can't know exactly how much the starter is drawing. You can find a shop close to you that has a starting / charging system tester that will give you a readout and test the current flow while cranking. Just be prepared to twist in another link if need be. I'm still thinking it's a starter problem, it's the largest draw in the vehicle, the whole reason batteries are rated in 'Cold Cranking Amps'.

Quote from astape

Starters ground through the housing. Are you sure the ground strap from the rear most head bolt to the firewall is still good. At this point i would just replace the starter it sounds like the windings or the seliniod is shorting out.

Aaron

x2 on this. Your starter circuit is drawing too many amps and frying the link. You can test whether it's the ground or the starter by using jumper cables to run a ground from the engine to the body and retest. But it's probaby time for a starter.

Yup it goes by the gauge. Will check this tomarrow, headin to bed now but a few Q's
1) how old is the starter? 2) how old is the fuel pump?
It might be a good diea to kind of upgrade your set-up by installing a ford starter solenoin which is basically a very heavy duty relay and wire your starter a dedicated circuit instead of powering several circuits off one relay.

As long as the wire is tight to the terminal then it is ok. Does your YJ have a white ceramic block with 2 wires going to it bolted on the firewall somewhere? I thought they had done away with them by 89 but i could be wrong....

You didn't have to be actually driving down the road for this to happen either. It happened to the old timer at work when he opened the passenger front door to place the vehicles wheel lock key in the glove box. He leaned in, opened the box and boom, got hit in the face and the back of the head simultaneously.....And to set the record straight, almost all car companies use that formula to decide a recall or at least one close to it.

If it burned out when you went to crank then your starter is drawing too many amps, either by the fault of the starter or a poor ground from the engine to the battery

Turned the key to the on position, or to the cranking position? It can either mean a short, or too much current draw, i.e. part of the wire you did not replace still acting as a load in the system.

up, i'll be there barring any major catastrophe.....The inlaws live in Jersey, are w/o power and have that Nor-easter blowing in...so can't say with 100% certainty.

gratz amigo, glad things finally turned up for you.

Quote from stomper

I'm just going to throw this out there but did you put the clutch disk in the right way and not backwards. If you put it in backwards it wont release all the way or not at all making it hard to shift.

Heh i hadn't even thought of that one...but a completely valid possibility....even did that once myself back in the day.

You're not having an issue of the wire grounding out since you're getting approx. 5 volts where you should have full battery voltage. The problem is excessive resistance in the wire, which corrosion at that piggy back point can definately cause. Also there is no ground strap on the column, it is grounded by default through touching the metal of the body which in turn is graounded at the battery. I would definately replace that section of wire for as far as you can even see the slightest corrosion. The corrosion is like rust it just keeps going, and i have a good feeling about your results once you actually get your full battery voltage on that red wire. If you want to test it before cutting and soldering just run a jumper wire from the bulkhead connector to the ignition switch connector.

Well with what your saying about 3rd gear, it's not gonna be a bleeding of air issue. Technically you can shift that trans without using the clutch at all, and once in gear the clutch would not cause an issue unless you have a misalignment issue. Also make sure the Trans fluid has been topped off, low or no fluid can cause some strange happenings.

I hope that this is not the case but i have to mention it....are you sure the guide pins that keep the bell housing properly lined up to the engine were in place? even a few millimeters of misalignment can cause a sticky clutch and issues with gear selection.

Removing the ECM will have adverse effects on your information system. i.e. your Temp gauge might not read, oil pressure, look at your manual and make sure that you don't need ECM input for your cluster to work properly.

Call my cell 3o2-233-5739

Searching....will edit if i find an answer. Any update on the previous post?

EDIT: thought this might help you a bit, it's a helpful repair database with wiring diagrams and such from Autozone
http://www.autozone.com/autozo…RAMS/_/P-0900c1528008ad56
EDIT: Top pic is the flasher module from whati can tell. For your hazard lights amd turn signals. Bottom pic is your horn relay. Here is a link to the full manufacturer repair manual for years 87 and 88. Your 89 'should' be the same.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/405903…angler%20FSM%20manual.pdf

As with anything else in the inspection lanes it is probably going to boil down to the guy in the lane. I'd print out the DOT certification for them and take that with you. I'll also try to find the federal law that states, state laws cannot supercede federal laws on vehicles useing DOT certified items.