Posts by YJpotter91

    I’ve taken it to Holden dodge for the remote start issue. They said my key fob was no good and car battery no good. Had them program me a new key fob and I put a battery in it (they wanted about $330). That helped for a day or two and problems came back. New battery reading low.
    I was able to use my friends scan tool and it had quite a few codes related to various modules like radio, doors, liftgate, headlights. I cleared them and only the radio code came back which is that it lost communication with heated seat module.
    I also tested for a draw on the battery and I have one that’s about 3.4 amps which is pretty high. I tested the fuse block under the hood and found nothing there, gonna look further into that today.
    sorry these posts are so long, just trying to give all the information I can in case it may rattle something in someone’s brain.

    I know I know, we’re all Jeep mechanics to some degree. I just thought that title would be funny.
    What I mean by it is is anyone here employed as a mechanic at a new Jeep dealership with access to dealer diag info etc.
    I recently bought a 2017 grand Cherokee overland 5.7. It was great at first but not so much anymore. It’s still got the basic powertrain warranty but full warranty expired.
    All the problems are electrical. Remote start works maybe 5% of the time. Wouldn’t remember heated seats were on between starts. Those things are tolerable. But then I drove to Wilmington Sunday, on the way home speakers cutting out over and over, instrument cluster went black a few times, passenger window went down by itself probably 7 times.
    Anyone have any knowledge about these things?

    I think t case drop did the trick. Had to cut a little bit of floor out to be able to get in second and the middle skid plate bolt on each side pulled right through the skid plate so I’ll have to figure something out with that but I’m good for now

    I put new springs on my yj and it feels as if my tires lift off the ground when I drive over a crack in the road. I’ve lifted Jeeps before and am well aware the springs are going to ride different than 32 year old factory springs. But this difference just doesn’t seem right. I think it might have something to do with my shackles. When putting everything back together I put the shackles on with a 1/2” impact which I’m guessing isn’t allowing my suspension to move


    I’ve searched the internet high and low and I’ve found the factory torque specs for shackle bolts, specs for boomerang shackles, etc. But I don’t know that my application would be considered stock anymore because of using urethane bushings. Also I’m using lock nuts and I imagine they’d throw things off a bit too


    Does anyone have a method? My dad said tighten them until the nut is touching the shackle then give it another half turn. Or will the lock nut not throw things off too much if I use a torque wrench?

    Never thought about a motor mount lift. I’m gonna get the front springs on and see where I’m at. If it’s still there which I suspect it will be, I’ll probably do shims or t case drop considering they’re the easiest. I’m putting together a 4.0 to go in it so I’ll also be need a trans and t case and when I do that I’ll put everything together properly and get all my angles right

    Prior to new springs I had stock springs and 3” shackles, so 1.5” of lift. I also have a 1” BL but I don’t think that should be a factor in this
    Today I installed 2.5” springs and stock length shackles in the rear of my yj. Didn’t have time to do the front, I will soon. Anyway I now have 2.5” of suspension lift in the rear, 1” more than I did before
    Drove the Jeep and I now have a noise and slight vibration, but ONLY IN FIFTH GEAR. Sounds like it’s coming from the rear but I’m not positive.
    I’m saying all the to ask if the Jeep being 1” higher in the rear could cause that. Because as far as I know 2.5” of lift shouldn’t change the drive angle enough to cause a problem, right?


    My pos Peugeot transmission could finally be crapping the bed but this issue wasn’t there before installing the springs

    It’s never had a shroud since I’ve owned it and the problem has always been there. No idea how old water pump is but I’m in the middle of rebuilding a 4.0 for it so I’m not gonna spend any money on it if I don’t absolutely have to. But a fan shroud is something I need either way. I’m gonna go ahead and order one

    88 yj 4.2. Starts to run warm at idle. If I bump the rpm’s it cools right back down. Temp is perfect when driving. I don’t have a fan shroud which I suspect could be the problem. Basically my question is, does a fan shroud really make that big of a difference?

    Thanks. I never noticed a number or the gear, or if I did never knew what it was for. I’m 99% sure the gear is in right but I’ll check that in case. If anything isn’t connected properly I bet it’s where the cable connects to the speedometer. I’ll have to do some more investigating

    When putting led bulbs in my dash I broke my speedo cable. After replacing it my speedometer constantly fluctuates in a 10mph range. I tried clocking the the gear but I can’t go any further clockwise and if I go counter clockwise speedometer doesnt work at all so I’ve pretty much eliminated the gear. As far as I can tell the cable is connected properly on both ends.


    What I’m getting at is, is this a common problem with the speedometer itself? A used speedo isn’t terribly expensive but I don’t wanna buy one for no reason

    Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and pulled the crank back out today. A guy at work has what I need to hone the cylinders and then I’ll be back on track