Posts by TheMistaken

12 ga would be my guess.

I'd help ya, cannot get a car onto my trailer though. My ramps are too steep. Sorry.

Where do you live? What kind of vehicale are you bringing back?

Gotta make sure that it is for AC or without AC as well.

WD40 is the worst thing that you could spray on a rubber belt or pulley bearing. It will vulcanize rubber and eat the grease in a bearing. WD40 is a DEgreaser.

Well it must not have happened. My soaked coveralls and all say other wise though.

Snow makes people do some fucking retarded shit though. Today, I saw an xj with a 10k equipment trailer with a bobcat loaded on it. Dumb. Some people only learn the hard way. He is lucky that he had a uni-body left when he was dumb.

While you guys up there in Kent and New Castle got sdome good snow, down here in Millsboro we got a whopping 3 or 4". However, friday night on my way home from work, I saw a car go off into a ditch. Being that I was only a few minutes from my house, I ran home, threw on some carhart coveralls and got the jeep out of the garage. Put on some gloves and drove over to the car. A cop, a durango, a stock jeep and a truck were trying to get this thing out. I pulled up and asked if they needed help, they said sure why not. So I spun around, hooked up the winch and a strap and 20 seconds later they were free. Nice and easy. To bad I cannot run a top or doors with the new cage, I got soaked and was pretty cold. Still fun. Just fyi, full width 60s and no flares make some good rooster tails... Too bad it all comes in the jeep.

Well the race schedule will really decide for me what I will be doing as well. I need to get cracking on my front axle and get that Biotch rebuilt.

Just a quick question there mike...
Why so many cross tubes on the B-Pillar? They aren't even really structural or an impact force tubes.

I adjusted my master cylinder to work decently. It could use some more tuning though.

As you know, I have the durango box. I would not worry about that though. Get it all together and see how she feels. I know that you do not have too many issues offroad now, so why worry about it. Besides, without mods, you cannot run a durango box or waggy box. Your 06 is a bit different.

Aaron, I am game. Throw em both on the gooseneck and split gas?

The WFO arms eliminate the spring also and use a set screw. Def the way to go. I got the older arms and used the shim way to do it. No reason, just got them for like 20% of the price due to being an old design that they had on the shelf.

I personally like the cross over steering set-up. I would do yours a bit different then mine, but we have the room to do that. The heims have always been a questionable item to have on steering linkage for a DD, but I do not think that you will really have any issues with them. I tapped my arms so that the bolt will be very difficult to come loose just from vibration. I used a pinch nut on the bottom of the bolt as well. It will come down to what you want to do with it really. I like mine though.

Good luck with him, with as much good as you hear from them, you will hear more so bad. Its the attention to details to a finished product that they lack. Billy's cage is basically his kit with the "C" pillar done a little bit differently. Not a bad design, but good luck with Zack. I highly recommend KAJO Built (www.kjobuilt.com) in Williamsport. He is one of the better fabricators and chasis designers in the area. Has built some badass stuff. He gave me a hand when I built mine.

Took me about 40 hours of labor, 5 hours of design after I threw out 900 ideas, 7 sticks of 1.5" .120 DOM, 5' of 1" .120 DOM, and about a 6' length of 6" wide 1/4" plate. Mine is hard mounted to the frame. Not really street legal. I also designed it to work without a top as I have other ideas for a top.

For a complete custom one off cage, you will spend some money. Probably in the 2k+ area. Get a kit cage and have someone install it for you. Will be cheaper. Poly Performance makes a really nice one. I am not a big fan of Zacks as I would just want more added to it. And if you ask around, you will find that they either cut a lot of corners up at AtoZ or they just all out do not do what you want/ask. I have not been impressed with anything that i have seen come out of their shop yet.

I will take 2 Mediums, will give cash at January meeting.

You will be fine Brian. Don't get overly concerned. Make sure the guy drains the fluid before we go up to look at it. 16 spline can be taken to 35 easily. Its just chaning the spider gears, but since we are going to 35 and a locker, it is not even a question. I as well have all of th BOM and dana expert shit printed at the house. We will take a drill and a wire wheel up there with us. As well as everything to pull the shafts and just get a double look. Gears not concerned with. We will be good. No worries. Will be fine, just as we talked about earlier today.

It is just a real big spline. They are about the same size as a 30 spline IIRC. Don't quote me, this is all coming from a picture and of of the top of my mind. I cannot get to the dana expert site at work. I do know that my rear is about 68" and it is a 79 rear from a F250. BTW, I modified my previous post a bit.

78-79 was 69.5" for the front.

Most of the rears that are approx 65-66" with that diff casting, may very well be a 66.5" WMS with 16 spline axles. In fact that would be my guess. I would pull the shafts and look at it. That could just be a generic casting. But from what I know the rears that are generally that narrow have come from something similar to a 73/74 F-250 2wd. It may be a full float HD60. Those tubes really need to be wire wheeled to find the BOM and know for certain. The WMS is good either way and you can just fill it with 35 spline stuff anyway since you will be replacing all of that shit anyway. No biggie. Still worth $150 as it sits.

I run a $50 wal-mart special. It sits for a few weeks at a time, often a month or more. Have had it 2 years now. Always starts right up. Eff wasting money on some hugely expensive battery. I have a 3 year warranty also.

I cannot do this. Reserve weekend...

Use a tire groover with the blade upside down, works way better then a utility knife and all of the slits are the exact set depth.

But there are a lot of other things that the $850 or $900 could be used for also. I am not knocking the fact of having HIDs. I like them to an extent, but to upgrade from a normal bulb on a vehicle that more then likely is either not a DD or is not like an over the road rig, I don't see the point in $900 of lighting. $200 or so, I would understand, but not nearly a grand.