Posts by SG1998

Bump...

No lookers? Summer time is coming! Somebody must want a jeep to drive around in, take the doors and top off. Stick your foot out the door,

Still available

Priorities in life have changed recently and unfortunately I'm looking to sell my wrangler. I don't really know what its worth so I figured I'd ask $5k and see where it goes from there.

Its a 1998 Wrangler Sahara, black, V6 4.0, manual transmission, just hit 151,000 miles. I've had it around 6 years, basically a daily driver. It had some rust issues on the frame when I first bought it, and I had ShadyLuke from the forum fix the areas by welding the auto rust sections in place. The tires still have plenty of tread (Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 31 x 10.50 R15, no spare). If I remember correctly the rims are American Racing.

If you are looking for a luxury vehicle, this jeep ain't for you. If you are looking for a bare-bones jeep, take a look. It has no back seat, no carpet. The previous owner had the interior rhino-lined. The seat covers are from Bartact, and I think they have held up better than any other ones that I've tried. It has full hard doors. No soft top, no hard top. I run it with a bikini top in the summer if any and no doors. In the winter I throw a windjammer on there. There's no A/C. I took off the rear tailgate and the rear section of roll bars. My plan was to custom make a cage back there, but life has been too busy. I still have both in my basement. I have 2 side mirrors for when the doors are off. It has a Kenwood CD player in there. There's no soundbar. It has a push-button start installed. A cold-air intake was put in years ago. I believe it was a 2" Old Man Emu suspension lift that was put on years ago. There's no death wobble. Brakes and rotors were done last year. It has after market front and rear bumpers, and rock rails. Headlights were upgraded to Truck-lite LED's. They are bright.

It's got a coolant leak from one of the hoses up front, but I just throw some extra in there every couple months.

I tried posting pictures to this link so hopefully it worked..... https://imgur.com/a/HLsRet7

I'm sure I forgot a bunch of info so I apologize. The best way to contact me if you're interested, or have any questions is just to text me at 302-584-8620. Im in the Pike Creek / Newark, DE area.

Again, this isn't a luxury vehicle by far. But it was a blast to drive with no doors. With only 151K, it still has plenty of life left in it.

Thanks for reading,

Scott

I think I screwed up with the wording of my post... just so there is no misunderstanding, he wants to sell the jeep as is. I guess my point was that it might be good for parts if someone is willing to buy it. He will not be parting it out. I figured it was worth throwing on the forum in case it was worth anything, before he scraps it.

Posting for a buddy:

A friend is trying to get rid of his 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Laredo, white, about 138,000 miles on it, V6. Sounds like it would be for parts at this point. Cloth interior, says it's in decent shape.

No modifications have been done to it. Was just used as a daily driver. The main reason for trying to get rid of it is the engine seized while driving home last week and had to have it towed. He is simply trying to get rid of it at this point. Would this be worth anything?

Just had a new water pump put in last month. I figured I would check on here before he calls "Cash for Clunkers". Lives in Pike Creek / Newark area. I don't know many details, but I can get answers to any questions or get you a phone number for contact if interested.

My buddy says he has a set that he recently took off his 4 door JK. His email is joses8744@gmail.com

He said to email him and he can give you more info or pictures. His name is Jose.

I wanted to see if anybody has heard of, or done, this mod to their gas tank. Researched it a little, and seems easy enough...

One of the plastic nipples on the top of my 19 gallon gas tank cracked, and was causing an evap leak. Had to fix it for inspection. I had a used one swapped in, which ended up being a 15 gallon tank. Not a huge deal, but its like losing 25% of your fuel capacity. So i'd like to get that back.

Apparently the 15 and 19 gallon tanks are two different part numbers, but are basically identical, same size, shape. The only difference is that the vent tube is longer on the 15 gallon, and is hanging inside the tank. It sounds like, as the fuel level rises in the tank, it reaches the vent tube, causing a pressure difference, and that is what causes the gas nozzle to shut off when filling your tank. So, the MOD is to drop the tank, remove the fuel pump assembly, and cut several inches off the vent tube. This will allow the fuel level to be able to rise further.

So if it's true, and it seems like it is from other forums, anybody with a 15 gallon tank can easily bump up their fuel capacity 4 more gallons. I guess you would just need a 19 gallon fuel pump assembly. I already have that. I know I could just go find another tank that is 19 gallons, but that will cost me a couple hundred i'm sure. Has anybody done this? or tried?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…nk-mod-confirmed-1234621/

---- This is a video of it being done to a YJ. The YJ's can be done without dropping the tank, but I believe the TJ's can access the vent tube the same way, because it is somehow plastic welded to the tank.

Anyway, thanks for any insight.

I appreciate the help fellas! Took it today and it passed. I just put a piece of PVC across the back and mounted a light to it. It was higher than the brake lights so it made the Triangle.

I'm sure this has been talked about before, but I haven't been able to find the answer by searching. Is there any specifics for a 3rd brake light in Delaware inspection, as far as the location of it? I know that it depends on the guy who is running the lane, but I have failed once before for not having it, and don't feel like taking a trip home again to put it on. So, i'm going to rig one. My question is, if the guy is anal and requires one, does it have to be at a certain height? Centered on the rear? etc.

I don't have a tailgate to attach it to anymore, so is it ok to rig a light to the vertical roll bar on the passenger side? Thanks for any info!

I emailed them to you. At least I tried to.

North Wilmington off 202.

They are yours if you come get them! Shoot me a text if you can 302-584-8620.

I'm trying to get rid of some parts that are just taking up space. These came off a 98 TJ and are free to a good home. Have to be picked up soon if interested (in North Wilmington), trash goes out this week!
-A/C compressor, lines etc. - GONE
-Stock air cleaner box, filter, tube - GONE
-Center console (tan) - GONE
-Serp belt (with a/c) - GONE
-Spare tire mount (no third brake light on it)
-Two small tow hooks that were mounted on top of the stock front bumper

For sale: Unknown brand black after market front bumper from a friend's 2011 JKU. I can't figure out how to post pictures. It seems pretty heavy duty, it's used so it's not in perfect condition, no hardware. If you are interested I could try to email or text pictures to you. He would like to get $100 but will probably take a reasonable offer.

Pm me if you want any of this stuff.

Good example, it hasn't started in days, so when i tried today around 1130, after it had been sitting in the sun for awhile, she was able to start. It wasn't pretty, but it eventually fired up. Once it ran for a little while, turning off and starting back up wasn't hard at all. It fires right up after it's warm, and runs good. did it 3 or 4 times. I don't understand it.

Yes I installed the distributor (me and a friend). It took a little bit of learning but we got it in there. This was last year, and it runs like a champ when it's not winter. So I don't see how it would be related to the distributor. And I replaced the gas cap as well, so I think I ruled that out.

I will try today and see if I can get a video uploaded somehow of what it is doing. I appreciate all the responses.

I only mentioned the oil because I didn't know if it became thicker when the temperature dropped, maybe making it harder for certain parts to move around. Again, i'm no mechanic, just trying to learn as I go.

I will try and dump some starter fluid in the throttle body to see if it makes a difference. I don't have a scan tool, and I don't see myself trying to figure that out by myself right now.

It only gives me trouble when it's cold out. It sat in my garage for about 2 months last winter because it wouldn't start, and now it started giving me trouble a week or two ago. It will crank and crank and crank and almost start, but usually coughs a little, and quits. It's sometimes almost violent, as if it's "bucking" a little. I'm no mechanic so it's hard for me to describe.

I've changed a lot of parts since I got it almost two years ago, more to just learn how it works. I don't mind throwing some money here and there towards it if I can learn some things.

But basically here is a list of things replaced - water pump, thermostat, serp belt, radiator, hoses, muffler, cat, exhaust, header, distributor and cap, wires, plugs, air filter, 02 sensors, starter, crankshaft position sensor, throttle body position sensor, idle air control valve, ignition coil, fuel pump assembly, new fuel injectors, map sensor, oil pressure switch, bunch of fuses and some relays, and recently changed oil (Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30), cleaned the throttle body, brand new battery with higher CCA's, and upgraded the alternator.

It runs all summer long with no issues. I am getting frustrated. If there is an electrical gremlin hiding under the hood somewhere, would the cold make it worse during the winter? The only code is P0442 (Evaporative Emission System Small Leak). Would it do any good to try a 5w30 oil? I even tried to jump it today with my other car, just to see if it made ANY difference, and nothing. So it sits in the street, laughing at me.

Happy Holidays folks! I am in need of a mechanic and wanted to see if anyone could recommend one in North Wilmington. I am having a starting issue that seems to only happen when it's cold out. I've tried to address it by replacing parts, and throwing money at it, but i'm giving up on it. At this point i'm willing to take it to a shop and pay to have it corrected finally. Does anyone recommend a shop up this way that deals with jeeps and wouldn't be a waste of my time and money?

It's a 1998 TJ, manual, 4.0 with about 140K on it. It's been throwing a Small Evap Leak code, but I didn't think that would cause it to not start.

Thanks for any info!

Scott

There was a video on youtube that I can't find any longer, but it worked great for me. Open the tailgate and pick a spot in the middle of each hinge (so there will be 2 total spots). It has to be on the round portion of the hinge that contains the pin. Pick a drill bit that is the same size (or slightly larger) than the little hose that comes on the PB Blaster bottle. Drill into the hinge slowly until you make it through the outer piece. Just keep checking until you make it through, it will be obvious. Then spray some PB Blaster in both hinges and start moving the tailgate around for awhile. Open and shut it like 15-20 times. Use a rag and wipe all the junk off that comes out. Repeat this a few times. Don't be shy with the PB Blaster, spray a bunch.

You can always put something in the hole to seal it up when you are done if you want. When you pick the spot to drill, you can pick a spot that won't be visible when you close the tailgate. This worked like a charm for me. Took about 20 min, and made the world of difference.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f…gate-hinge-fix-99045.html here's a link to some pictures. Hope it works, and helps

Before I buy a new one, I figured I would look to see if anybody has one lying around. I am looking to buy a wind jammer for a 98 TJ, black. Let me know if anyone wants to sell one. Thanks

The soft top was sold. The A/C stuff is still available, and I also have a black tail gate for sale, off a 98 TJ.

Thanks for all the responses! It was a hard line. It was cracked in a spot that was very close to the steering shaft. Maybe it rubbed against it somehow. But yes, the pedal went to the floor and I had no brake pressure at all. I decided to just get the shop to replace the lines. I would probably just screw it up. It cost me, but I feel a little safer having someone do it that knows what they are doing.