Posts by WILLYN

    ok then I agree with 92Renegade. My reading comprehension is not what it used to be. You either have a bad connection at the battery post or corrosion where the wire meets the clamp or the same at the other end of the cables. There is also a slight chance that there is a broken/intermittent connection within the battery itself. I think when you moved the cables by unhooking and rehooking them you made contact where there had been none. I would replace both cables and hope it wasn't the battery.

    So from what I'm reading after you disconnected the battery you were able to turn on the lights and start the jeep. I would say leave the battery disconnected or remove it to save weight.

    I would agree with Slimer. I didnt adjust anything on the carburetor, it probably needs some tweaking. The vacuum hoses that are there are minimal, but they were intact.

    I could tig weld that tube, but the hole would be bigger when I'm done! If it has a hole in it, it might develop another one. They aren't expensive, I look on eBay for all of this kind of thing. Just look for brand name stuff shipping from the USA.
    Another option is to take it to a hydraulic hose place and have one made, but that's going to be spendy.

    The HEI distributor will send a nice clean tach signal for the TBI injection. I installed the Howell setup last year and it is a huge improvement also. I'm working on getting a datalogging setup for it so that I can get a custom chip burned for it. Howell has good customer service, and will re burn the chip once for free if you supply them with some data.
    Your Jeep looks like it's really nice, it's always cool to see another CJ around!

    One of the easiest ways to eliminate points is with a Pertronix conversion. Remove points, replace with Pertronix, reset timing and you're good to go!
    The DUI has a good reputation also, and is pretty much self contained. The hardest part of installing it is dropping it in on the right tooth. The stock wiring powers the stock coil when the key is turned on. There is a resistor or resistor wire built into the stock harness believe it or not to reduce the volatage going to the coil to make it last longer. The resistance must be eliminated in order to get full power out of the HEI. It's pretty simple. The only catch is that the distributor might "backfeed" from the wiring harness. If that occurs a simple diode is used to stop that from happening.
    I could help you out with it if you would like, I enjoy this kind of thing!

    I have called all of my vehicles many names... which I won't repeat here. I did have a van at one time that was called "old Bessy", but I didn't come up with that name and no one put stickers on the hood.

    That one sounds pretty nice. I think you weren't in a jeep at York last year also, that's why I said that. I have seen you selling jeeps and stuff, I definitely believe you've had a lot of them. You could probably fling some mud with the 401 spinning all four 35's!

    No problem Wayne, just joking around. It was hot on that course! The place really cleared out by 2:00, when they finally got the mud pit dug. The food lines were long and hot too. I think the best plan for this would be to roll in early afternoon and check out all the rides while the crowd is big, then hit the obstacle course and mud and food aroun 3:00 when there's half as many people. There wasn't even a line for the obstacles later.

    I had a great time out there. My wife and I went for my birthday. We saw one anonymous member there and I think his cousin. We headed to the obstacle course and navigated it successfully although the traffic was terrible. I bashed something pretty hard on a big rock pile but then made the hillclimb ok. The trail guy tried to get me to stop for a picture and I slid back down like my brakes wouldn't grab. When I got back to my spot I found out one of my rear brake lines was broken. I couldn't find Wayne again to give me a ride, so I bummed a ride to pep boys from Tom and Theresa from New Jersey. We got the line, I put it back, bled the brakes,(wife's favorite thing) and went to watch the mud pit. The pit was good but no one got stuck, so it was mainly a bunch of people driving through mud. It was hot out there but there was a real good turnout. A good time was had by all!

    I already bought a ticket for this, just not sure what jeep I'm bringing. There was a spot to say what club you're affiliated with, they talked about having groups park together. We will see, hope to meet some of you there!

    If it has had holes in the condenser it has been open to the atmosphere. Internal corrosion can get started and that is not good. It needs to be flushed also. Basically all the fittings are opened and the individual lines and evaporator are flushed both directions until clean. The orifice tube is usually replaced, and a new receiver/drier is used. New o-rings go on all the fittings.
    I just got into this on my quigley van. There is a kit from most parts houses with a new compressor, receiver/drier, o-rings, and compressor oil. Mine was a little over $200.
    I have a vacuum pump and a set of gauges and a flush gun, and I should be getting done with mine sometime next week, I'll let you know how it goes. I won't be using the flush on mine since I went all new, so I even have some of that.
    Obviously there is no local shop I know and trust to do this, so as typical, I bought the tools and do it myself.