Posts by brihvac

Is that a OTW surf rack?

**Hardtop only. Not Jeep**

Painted Spice but was originally black. I am sure if you hit it with a good pressure washer it could be black again.
Brand new lift shocks, wire harness, wiper, rear defogger and everything works. Could use a good clean up. Located in Long Neck DE
$500 firm

1997 Jeep TJ, 2.5L, 5spd, PERFECT frame with NO rust or rot. 172K miles. When I had the trans out for the clutch you can tell the engine has been apart. It runs too good and is too quiet for the miles so I am sure it was rebuilt at some time but I can not confirm this. With as good as it runs and drives with 60psi oil pressure it has definitely been rebuilt or freshened up.I am the 3rd owner. From the shape of the frame I would say it was never off road. Sony CD player, THE FOLLOWING PARTS ARE BRAND NEW: ** BF Goodrich 31" tires with spare, Steel front bumper with D-rings, winch mount, and off road light mounts (forget what brand it is but was almost $300), Curt class 3 hitch, brake lines, brakes, rotors, calipers, shocks, hood latches, Quadratec floor mats, 2.5" spacer lift, Adjustable track bar good for 6" of lift, Novak 4X4 cable shift, LED headlights, fuel pump, waterpump, all hoses, t-stat, Luk clutch kit, rear main seal, motor mounts, custom fit Marathon seat covers, entire floor bedlinered the right way, Quadratec 8mm wires, plugs, Screamin Demon coil, cap, rotor, air filter, oxygen sensor, serpentine belt, fan clutch, transfer case drop. **
Over the winter I changed all the fluids( both differentials, trans, transfer case, antifreeze, & oil). Just had an alignment. Frame is perfect. When I bought it I used a plumbing camera to inspect the inside of the frame. After I bought it I used boiler brushes to clean the inside of the frame them I coated it with Eastwood inner frame coating then did the outside with the Eastwood frame paint. No rot in the floor pans. There was one spot on the passenger side that I had repaired. Runs perfect and gets 23mpg No BS. Great oil pressure and runs 200 degrees all day long even on the 98 degree days. Does not leak a drop of anything. I run Rt.1 at 65-70 with no issues. I also have the back seat, original spare, front bumper, and all the carpet. I know am forgetting some stuff. I have a lot more in it than what I am asking but I will consider reasonable offers.

I would put it a hair higher and take $200. Its well worth $200

You can get them for $439 new from Pitbull. I have one and they are a nice lift. You should be able to get $200 for it. Especially if you hit it with some paint.

That wasn't installed was it? Surprised they give you a warranty without them installing it.

That Stu Offroad has some great information. I think I will give his alignment method a try

Quote from WILLYN

What makes you think that? If there's any lift you might not find someone to just align it. The toe-in is adjustable, but the caster and camber are pretty much built-in. The only thing that would change them other than a lift is worn out or bent parts. If you have worn out or bent parts the alignment shop will tell you they need to be fixed before it can be aligned. I don't know if you have coil springs, but if you do then you should check the control arm bushings. They wear out and the axle can shift around causing weird sensations. Otherwise loose wheel bearings or worn ball joints would be the next place to look.

Nothing is worn and drives fine but I can see one tire is straight while the other is turned out slightly. I also had a bumping noise when at full lock and found the one cam adjuster on the passenger loose so I am not sure if it is still right (noise went away after I tightened it). It has a 2" puck lift on it and the previous owner did have it aligned before I bought it.

Looks like I am a little off on the alignment. Where is the most reasonable place in the Wilmington area to get one done?

Casting on the new flywheel was the issue. Put the old flywheel back on and it is as quiet as a mouse. Took it for a ride and the new clutch feels great, smooth clutch pedal, and no noises. 3rd times a charm
I can now pull a trans in an hour, and reinstall in an hour and a half; by myself. Hardest part in aligning the input shaft. LOL

I would love to do a small block but I do not know how that would work with going through Delaware emissions. I have read a article on doing the thrust bearing and mains in the engine without removing it. I would rather pay someone to do it though as I do not have the know how. If there are any mechanics here, or anyone knows a decent mechanic, that would do it let me know. I will pay, of course.

Quote from WILLYN

Well it sounds like you got that under control. Should work this time. And now that you have all that practice it'll be a lot easier on the next one.
I've reused many flywheels without proper resurfacing. It has always been a logistical problem of getting the thing to a machine shop and back while the vehicle is on jacks. If you break the glaze with the 180 grit it should be fine.

Thats exactly what I did.

In case I do need to rebuild my motor....who around does a fair job? I can bring them the engine. 1997 2.5 4cyl

Quote from WILLYN

I would agree with Aaron at this point, put some miles on it before you give up. It really does sound to me like the clutch fingers scraping on the throw out bearing face. The throw out might be new and tight with fresh grease packed in it, and just needs to be used a few times to loosen up. There's not much it could hurt, considering you are contemplating a new one anyway.
As far as endplay on the crankshaft being excessive and allowing the flywheel to contact the starter gear, you should be able to see evidence of that in the form of a continuous shiny scrape around the ring gear on the starter side. I once did a clutch on a Toyota pickup and we couldn't get it to work consistently, then after much trying this and that we found you could grab the flywheel and push it front to rear about a half an inch. The engine was then toast.
I would be happy to come by, but can't make it till Wednesday afternoon.

You were 100% correct on the end play. However, I do not believe my engine is bad. I also do not have 1/2" of play.
The new flywheel looks like it is cast different
(fatter) than the old one where it bolts to the crank. AND I have a fair
amount of play in the crank (172K miles). So when I was pushing in the
clutch, it was pushing the new flywheel forward to where it was just
scraping the block some. I cleaned up the old flywheel, put it on and
pushed in as hard as I could while turning it and it does not "seem" to
be hitting. Will know tomorrow when I bolt the trans back up and try it
out. Hopefully 3rd times a charm.

I do not have a dial indicator. I am going to pull everything including the flywheel when I get home. I am going to get a new clutch and I think I am going to hit the old flywheel with some 180 sandpaper on my DA and reinstall it. I will double check the crankshaft for play. I am down to an hour to completely pull the trans. LOL

I stopped at Napa to look at their clutches (Luk in a Napa box) and was talking to the guys at the counter and thats what he said because it goes into gear smooth and grabs nice when you let it out.
I'm not looking for anyone to wrench and get their hands dirty; I just wanted someone to listen to it and say "That sounds like..... or I think its...." just to give me a direction to look. Do you think I could have got a bad clutch? I think my next move is to put the old flywheel back on (with new pilot), and see if that is the issue. I'm out of ideas.

My wife said to take it somewhere. If I do can anyone suggest where?

Really need some help

If anyone is in the North Wilmington area that can stop by and help me
identify my issue I would really appreciate it. I put my clutch/trans all back
together with the new throw out bearing and it is still making noise. I
do not know what else to do or what else to change. I want someone elses opinion before I tear it apart again. I'm getting desperate. I live right outside Bellefonte

Really need some help

If anyone is in the North Wilmington area that can stop by and help me identify my issue I would really appreciate it. I put it all back together with the new throw out bearing and it is still making noise. I do not know what else to do or what else to change.
I live right outside Bellefonte

The clutch is not the same brand as the old one. Its the one Luk calls for my Jeep.

Pulled the trans and the clutch disc is in the right way, throwout bearing seems smooth. Putting the old clutch next to the new clutch there is a height difference. I do not know if that is an issue seeing the old clutch is not a Luk. If you look at the throwout bearing you can see that the sleeve is not centered. Everything looks good with nothing obviously wrong.

My clutch is hydraulic so there is no pedal adjustment, everything worked fine before the install.
WILLYN There is only one way to install the throwout bearing it is impossible to install it backwards. It did disengage smoothly and went into gear like butter. I only but it in first and rolled it forward and reverse to go back.

Its the metal throw out. I did not use the one in the Luk kit because it had the plastic sleeve. I bought an all metal throw out. I did install a new pilot into the new flywheel. Everything is brand new. My plan is to take the clutch off and check for the 4th time that its facing the right way, removing the all metal throw out, and installing the throw out with the plastic sleeve that came with the kit. Like I said, I never drove it yet. I just started it in the garage and moved it some in 1st gear.

One more thing I noticed...When I push the clutch in; it seems to bog the motor down a hair then the rpm's would come right back up. It never did that before the clutch change