Front end alignment issues

  • Quote from "quadna71"

    brian,
    8.7*...still a little high....maybe put them back out a little bit - say a thread and a half or so. then align your toe-in again. that should keep you pretty stable and controlled on the road. but if it centers well, doesn't wander, and feels generally safe then you should be okay.


    I'd be curious what his pinion angle looks like with that much positive caster.


    That should take priority over caster.

  • Quote from "Keith_C"

    I'd be curious what his pinion angle looks like with that much positive caster.


    That should take priority over caster.


    i have to disagree. i would say steering is more important that wearing out some u-joints

  • Quote from "Keith_C"

    I'd be curious what his pinion angle looks like with that much positive caster.


    That should take priority over caster.

    While in the case of Brian's TJ, there is no reason to have caster higher the factory spec. So just back out a turn or two will do the trick.. However, I am with Chris, caster setting takes priority over the pinion angle for "FRONT" drive shaft. The Front DS is longer and is not as susceptible to vibration as to the rear DS when it comes to pinion angle setting. :)


    Later,

  • Quote from "HarryHood"

    Thank you much for your help today Linyee and Derek. Like a new jeep now


    Randy, I was thinking last nite while I was watching TV. We did not check your front UCA length. At the time, I assumed that your control arms were equal in length. Please use a tape measure and measure accurately. THey have to be exactly the same length. Please get out on I95 with no cross wind, the TJ should be able to track straight for 30 to 1 minute or so. Let me know how that goes. :)


    later,

  • Quote from "underDAWG"

    While in the case of Brian's TJ, there is no reason to have caster higher the factory spec. So just back out a turn or two will do the trick.. However, I am with Chris, caster setting takes priority over the pinion angle for "FRONT" drive shaft. The Front DS is longer and is not as susceptible to vibration as to the rear DS when it comes to pinion angle setting. :)


    Later,


    My point was that with that much positive caster, the pinion angle has to be at less than an optimum angle, and there's really no need for it.

  • Quote from "Keith_C"

    My point was that with that much positive caster, the pinion angle has to be at less than an optimum angle, and there's really no need for it.


    Yes, there is no reason for exceeding the factory spec. But I think brian just over doing it on his arms. But anyway, I don't think he is getting any vibration from the front DS.


    When I saw his arm, it was more than an inch longer than I would like. In his early post, I think he took off the jam nut, may be he shortened by 1 1/2 inch shorter.


    Later,

  • Quote from "underDAWG"


    When I saw his arm, it was more than an inch longer than I would like. In his early post, I think he took off the jam nut, may be he shortened by 1 1/2 inch shorter.


    Later,


    How I'm confused.


    Does he have adj. uppers and fixed lowers ?

  • Quote

    Does he have adj. uppers and fixed lowers ?


    Brian bought my old and trusted RE 4.5 lift. Yes, he has adj uppers and fixed lowers.


    Later,

  • Quote from "underDAWG"

    When I saw his arm, it was more than an inch longer than I would like. In his early post, I think he took off the jam nut, may be he shortened by 1 1/2 inch shorter.


    Running w/o the jamnut is not a good idea IMO.


    It will allow the rod to rotate inside the threaded bung and will quickly wear the threads.

  • I don't mind to convert my TJ to leaf springs in the rear for my TJ if it is a trail only vehicle. I will keep my coils if I have to trek 2000 miles one way to find good wheeling spot. :)


    Later,

  • Quote from "Keith_C"

    Running w/o the jamnut is not a good idea IMO.


    It will allow the rod to rotate inside the threaded bung and will quickly wear the threads.


    Many of us have been using without jam nut for many years. I can't find any problem without it. We have more than 2" thread fully engaged. I inspected the arm before unloading it. THere is absolutely no wear that I can tell. I don't recommend taking jam nut off for no reason. But I don't mind to take off the ajm nut to gain better trackability of my TJ which is what I have done. :)


    Later,

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