Posts by Keith_C


    For what it's worth, the bearing inner race really has nothing at all to keep it from spinning. The nice, smooth, newly greased bearings are supposed to roll on the races and not really exert much spinning force on the race.
    Harley guys routinely "peen" bores and such to be able to use old and irreplaceable parts., it's a pretty accepted practice.


    I whole heartedly agree.


    I'd feel way better making it a tighter fit mechanically than counting on what is basically a super glue type bond.


    Loctite also makes several types of bearing mount products to help with applications like this.


    I use it all the time at work, tends to be green.


    But I typically use it on sealed ball bearing assemblys.


    And it's usually at least a snug fit before the loctite.


    If the race can be easily set into the bore and spun with a finger I'd think it's wallowed out to the point of replacement.


    I'm upgrading to Yucon TJ type front axles and in addition to replacing the outer axle seal on the passenger side, having removed the disconnect, I was wondering if the addition of the outer billet aluminum axle tube seals would be recommended. I noticed that the axle is not machined smooth at the location of outer seal which was supplied with the upgrade stuff.


    If it's rough it will wipe those o-rings out in a few miles.


    Even smooth they tend to not last long.

    Ian - Thank you for taking a few minutes to actually explain it.


    While I have had my unit bearings unbolted from the knuckles, my spindle nuts have never been off so I really didn't know how it all fit together.




    Aaron - You come off like an arrogant know-it-all *ASSHOLE* that has no tolerance for anyone that doesn't have the knowledge you have or has the audacity to question it.


    Again instaed of added any useful tech u post dumb fuck stuff that doesnt help anyone. U can not over tightnen a unitbearing. U can under tightnen by not seating the back side of the spindle with the nut. This will allow the weight of the truck to loosen the pressed in bearing.



    See keith some tech not a bullshit pic. Contribute and dont be a dick.


    Wow Aaron.


    I asked a simple technical question, and you chose to come back with insults and name calling.

    When u tighten the nut on the stub shaft it sits against a shoulder that sets the preload. U can NOT over tighten the bearings. This is why u shoud not drive with out the stub shaft in the unit bearing.


    Its real simple i know u have had the front apart on yours and u r not stupid, so y do u continue to say stupid things?



    The thing I don't like about tub mounted spare tire carriers is that, if not properly braced, the bouncing of the spare as you drive will slowly tear the tub apart (happened to me but my tub was not the best).


    But if that's the route you want to go, make a bracket that bolts to the bottom of roll bar (underside of the wheel well) and extends to the back side of the tub. It would essentially be a large piece of angle; I'm guessing one side would be 4" and the other 2". That way the upper mount of the spare tire carrier will be mounted to something firmer than sheet metal.


    That how my Bestop carrier is designed.


    One bracket is bolted to where the sport bar is mounted and the other catches a body mount I think.


    Mounting to just sheet metal will never last.

    Most recoveries with people who get stuck in mud or whatever tend to be able to pull straight but it seems like the rock crawling group I tend to ride with always get's themselves in a crazy situation where a lateral pull is the only thing that will get the vehicle in a recoverable position so a lot times there really is no avoiding it. :shrug:


    (I'm looking at you especially 2000sahara Example here. :laughing: )


    Wayne too... :)


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    Just integrate additional d-ring mounts on the bumper ends. Gives you front and lateral recovery points.


    Pulling sideways should be avoided in my opinion.


    I think you run a real risk of tweaking the frame or something else.



    If possible, I'd use a snatch block attached to a tree or another vehicle to try to get the straightest angle at both the stuck load as well as the winch.


    We should all know also that winch pulling power decreases as the line angle is moved away from straight on.


    And they VERY thoroughly inspect the casings to make sure there is no rot or broken belts. Also they will NEVER retread a steering tire for obvious reasons.


    That's not completely accurate.


    Buses are not allowed to have retreads or regrooved tires on the steer axle.


    Trucks can have retreads; but not regrooved, depending on the load capacity of the tire.


    I would never run them.


    there ya go.


    I will always play the devils advocate.


    If that gets me a video of some dweeb (pretty sure it was Sal) clapping so be it.


    Why have 2 options and the option to vote for both?


    They just cancel each other out. Makes no sense.


    I'm with Slimer, pick a place and move on.


    Having 3-4 weeks of polls for a meeting where maybe 3-4 people will actually show up just doesn't make sense.

    I'm going to try a few of these. This guy seems to have the best method.


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    First pic is a dry rotted tire.


    I hope you aren't driving any loved ones around on that.


    Blow out on a Wrangler at highway speeds has no good ending.


    And I could see trying the vulcanizing thing on a 37" IROK.


    But those are old shit tires to start with.


    Tires/brakes... Don't go cheap, they are where the rubber meets the road.