If its as easy as a bent linkage I would disconnect the linkage and shift the t'case into 4-low by hand using the lever on the case. If it still pops out at least you know your pulling the case for a reason. Id hate to pull it and find out after that it was just linkage binding.
Big X2... I had this problem before, and had to clean up, regrease and readjust the linkage. Problem solved once it was working smoothly again and re-adjusted.
Putting the Novak shifter in will certainly fix it, but sometimes the pivot rod slips in its mount, especially when angled (up or down) slightly. You may need to push it across away from where it binds, and put s small hose clamp on it to hold it in the right place. I shoved my whole crossmember up, bent up my t-case shifter linkage and everything YEARS ago at PAP. Once I replaced the crossmember and got the t-case linkage back where it was supposed to be, I had to use a hose clamp on it to keep it located so it wouldn't bind. Its still that way, and still works. I do have a cable shifter to swap onto the XJ though, so it will be swapped out sometime this spring...
I have one for a 96 XJ that I never used. Its brand new. Not sure if its the same as what you need, but if you check out Novaks website and confirm the part numbers are the same I'll make you a great deal on it.
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Actually, mine isn't the cable shifter. It is the SK2X, non-cable version. Sorry, disregard my previous statement.
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Where was this 5-8 years ago? I think I might have to do this also.
Where did you purchase?
I have one for a 96 XJ that I never used. Its brand new. Not sure if its the same as what you need, but if you check out Novaks website and confirm the part numbers are the same I'll make you a great deal on it.
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Don't know if it is still under construction, but the bridge along that route was out when I was at RC in Oct. They wouldn't let me ford the creek! Having said that it's the route I normally take to avoid that hard uphill left at the stop sign.
Bridge is fixed and its open now. I just came through there yesterday. Yeah, that turn is a pain too when your towing.
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This is how I go to RC from West Chester
Take Rt 100 to the Downingtown on ramp for the turnpike
Go towards Harrisburg
Take the Morgantown Exit I-176
Merge onto 422W
Take the left exit for 222N
Take the reading Airport exit Pa RT 183 N
Turn left onto I-78W
Take Exit 13
Turn right onto 501N
When 501 ends turn left to head into town. unsure of street name maybe Rock?
you will pass a tank
When that street ends, turn right. Maybe Tulpehocken.
Follow until you see signs for RT 81 that tell you to turn left
Should be Molleystown Rd
Right after you turn left you will see a convenience store gas station and Burger king on the right.
At this point you can stop to get food and take a bathroom break.
Most people with 4x4s there will be heading up to RC
So if you didn't stop, continue straight up the winding road
RC will be on the left with a big sign.
Hope that helps
FYI... there is a road (can't remember the name of it) that shoots off to the left as you come down the hill on RT501 that goes out to 443. Go left onto the road, left again at the stop, and go straight onto 645. It cuts that corner off in Pine Grove where you have to turn left or right. Its also WAAYY easier (and roomier if your towing) to see at that intersection too.
If you turn left in town, go to 81 and head north for 2 exits. Turn right onto 209, and turn left onto Molleystown Rd in approx. 1 mile. Then up the hill and RC is on top.
Awesome! Definitely interested. I'm busy the rest of the week, but starting Monday I can come get it anytime after 2:30 pm.
OK, sending PM.
By straps do you mean the u-bolts? And either way, I'm totally interested!
No, this is a factory yoke from an XJ with straps instead of u-bolts. I have one of this style on my WJ now, and it looks exactly the same as this one.
Thanks!My next question is...how do I know which axle I have, to buy that adapter for the diff?
Got it, it's a dana 30. Which means 20 extra bucks...
I think I have a few of the D30 yokes around that have the straps (XJ factory style). $15 and its yours. Let me know if your interested.
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I suppose I should show you what I've got. This is the driveshaft here. I don't have the yoke or the adapter(?) for the diff end, which judging by that write up is the single-joint end.
EDIT: And this is the entire kit that I bought.
I run a JKS adjustable track bar on mine too. Works mint with the hard durometer bushings Kevins Offroad offers to prevent any DW issues.
Yes, the diff end should be the single joint end. The driveshaft you have looks identical to a front shaft for an XJ. In your case, you may be able to source all of the parts you need in a junkyard from an XJ with an NP242 T-case. But to answer your one earlier question , no it is not the same yoke on the diff that is on the TC. The yokes are definitely different.
You may be able to use this part at the diff though:
www.quadratec.com/products/52237_05X0_PG.htm
Just looked at mine, and it already has the front yoke. I just need the one at the t-case. Also, an XJ front driveshaft looks like it may work. Hard to judge without putting the yoke on at the t-case though. That rezappa joint yoke is really huge.
Here is a good link for this info with a how-to...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…driveshaft-my-wj-1151094/
I am still running the rezappa (at the t-case) front on mine, but it was practically brand new when I got the WJ, and I am still under 4" of lift. Also, that track bar drop bracket is a little scary/flimsy looking in the Rough Country kit. Budget for an adjustable track bar just in case (you won't need the drop pitman arm if you use an adj. track bar too). WJ's seem to be more prone to DW once lifted, and Kevins Offroad (www.kevinsoffroad.com) seems to have some good parts for WJ's if you have DW issues once your done the lift.
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When mine failed the cage had ripped apart. Very loud when trying to drive, but somehow it didn't jam anything up, I just got a real silvery mush when the fluid drained out
I was taking a look at Bill's before I sent it to be replaced/rebuilt. You could shift his all around and swivel it in ways that you wouldn't think you should be able to...the input bearing also went. Think of the range of motion a dradle moves in when it is losing its speed. I don't know the spec, but I'm pretty sure it was out of spec. However, when I sent it in, the Teraflex guys said it looked pretty damn good, maybe they were being incompetent or that has something to do with mine breaking. For what it's worth, when I took my stock planeteries out, they wouldn't move and shift around in all the directions that Bill's did.
Ok, good to know. Thanks for the info gents. I hope to be swapping something beefier in before I break it, but I seem to have a "run it til it breaks" attitude anymore with my XJ. 
I also run a RADesign shifter in it too. This allows me to lock my auto in any gear to keep wheel speed up, but still make sure the rpms stay under 2500. I can basically start out in 2nd/3rd/4th gear if needed. This is probably a large reason why my tera low is still surviving too.
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Even the stock case shouldn't be run very fast, I remember the owner's manual saying not to run 30-35mph in 4wd high gear!
But yeah, when I called Teraflex they said don't run it too fast, and espeically not beyond 2,000 rpms in 2nd gear or higher. Anything to heat up the fluid will burn the gears/cage up. Word on pirate is that 37s are pushing it and 40s make it go kablooey. Anything smaller should be fine. Nice to know after the fact
When yours failed, how did it fail? Blew the case apart/locked up? Did it hurt anything else in the drivetrain?
Just curious, so I know what to expect when mine goes... (37's w/5.13 gears...) I remember in the directions it said do not exceed 2500 rpms, because the unit will be spinning at 25,000+ rpms. I have kept the rpms down below 2500 most times when crawling, but lately I have been exceeding that limit. 
The only thing I did differently when I ran them is loctite the inner lugs since I couldn't see them.
X2... I have been running them for a while on my WJ, and made sure I used Loctite when I installed them.
Gave Jen's new-to-her WJ a 3" bump in altitude and some JK takeoffs on Sat to allow her to tackle even the largest of curbs at the mall.
Looks great!! Mine is still on jack stands... awaiting new springs/control arms. Should be this week. If you have DW issues, check out Kevins Offroad. They have some great stuff to cure this on WJ's.
Alloy shafts installed in the WJ yesterday. New steering stabilizer (mounted up out of "crushing" range) and track bar bushings done as well.
Interested... pm sent.
That is a bad section of rt100... goes for about 3 miles above rt401. Hopefully nobody was seriously injured.
I was pulling in the driveway today and thought to myself I wonder how high a 2" budget boost would make it and if it would be just as easy to get into to. This jeep thing really is a sickness.
Nice WJ!!
I am just about to remove a set of 3" IRO coil springs from my WJ...
There are pics of my WJ in the Anthracite pics. It worked well until I broke a D35 shaft.
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That was a good time at Anthracite. It was great meeting and wheeling with you folks. Thanks for putting up with the mighty WJ. I had a bad feeling about that spillway where I broke my axle shaft, especially in that downpour. I should have listened to my gut and bailed out to the right. Oh well... its time to upgrade now!! Anthracite looks like its going to be fun to wheel once its opened up as a business too. Now if someone would just put a full service campground 5 miles away, it would be perfect.
Thanks to AAA, the WJ is home in my driveway. I am trying to decide if I want to source a D44A out of a WJ with a V8 (re-gear it/lock it and swap it in), or just see if they have alloy shafts for the WJ D35. I am leaning towards finding the D44A, but I am a little scared of an axle with an aluminum center section. I should really just build a regular D44, but I have to check the WJ width to see what matches. I found a few other issues with the WJ too, so its going in my garage tomorrow for some major overhauls.
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