Posts by WILLYN

  • Rhino line/liquid wrap

    I used monstaliner on my van, supposed to be UV resistant.
    It's doing pretty good after two years. I rolled it on but spraying is probably better because the roller deteriorated as I went and left pieces in the finish. An added benefit is it made it quieter.

  • Rebuilding a 4.0

    In my opinion if you replace the rings you need at least a hone. If you marked the pistons and can get them back exactly as they were then you could clean them and lube them and should get about the same compression as before if you're lucky. If there's any doubt about the piston locations then you're screwed, and need to hone.

  • custom steering setup alignment shops

    If there are actual Heim joints I'm not sure if they are even street legal.
    The guy might not want the liability of working on them and sending you down the road.
    Heim joints usually bolt in with regular bolts, not tapered studs.
    If they are regular tie rod ends with the tapered stud they can be a pain to remove without damage.
    There is a puller made for them that's pretty cheap. Usually some heat from a simple propane torch and a puller will remove them undamaged.
    You may be limited in your steering wheel centering by the fact that you can only adjust in half-turn increments.
    Also, you will be experiencing more bump-steer with the setup you described.
    You could probably tweak the track bar adjustment to help center the steering if you need to, but the axle might be slightly off-center as a result.

  • custom steering setup alignment shops

    That's a solid axle front end if my research is correct. If you haven't removed the knuckles and the steering was good before you really only need to set the toe-in and re enter the steering wheel.
    The toe-in is a very simple adjustment, just making the tie rod longer or shorter until it measures correct. Can be done on the ground with a measuring tape. Plenty of how-to on YouTube.
    After adjusting that, the drag link from the steering box pitman arm to the knuckle or tie rod can be adjusted.
    Just drive straight for 50' or so and stop, steering wheel crooked. Adjust the drag link with the jeep on the ground and the steering unlocked. Spin the link until the wheel becomes centered and tighten down. It should be close at that point. Drive it a bit and see what you think. If it's still off center, adjust it a bit more.
    If you put a lift kit on you should be able to do this.
    One note here, if the lift kit is properly designed the caster angle should remain the same as stock.
    If the heim joints are on the links holding the axle in place you will definitely need to adjust the caster. It is pretty simple as well and can be done with an angle finder app on a cell phone.
    There should always be some caster. There is probably plenty of this on YouTube as well.
    There is a wide range of caster that will work with a solid axle, and different manufacturers have different specs for this sometimes even when using the very same axles. In general, less caster makes a less stable ride with less return-to-center feel, while more caster makes more.
    If this is necessary it should be done first, then toe-in, then steering wheel centering.
    You don't need any fancy computerized equipment for any of this, and you can do it all on a level driveway.

  • Back up camera

    I totally agree with Solomi on the dedicated power switch. There is a delay when my head unit is changing to backup camera mode and it's annoying. Also when you are backing under a trailer coupler and there is a hill involved you hit park and the truck rolls slightly forward before it engages you literally can't see how much because you have to go back into reverse in order for the camera to work, but then you put it in park again...

  • Back up camera

    I've used several different Chinese ones from eBay. Usually around ten to fifteen dollars.
    I have four on my 2A, one at every corner. I have one on my van above the hitch,connected to my radio and the reverse lights, and another on top of the third brake light connected to a screen where the rearview mirror used to be. I also had one for the hitch on my old Tahoe.
    They have all worked just fine,but the Tahoe one got smashed by the trailer coupler!
    I got a new camera to replace that one, but the screen was old, I think the brand was Peak, and the newer camera didnt work with it.
    If the head unit is older I would study up on compatibility.

  • Need an engine "ring job"?.

    Not sure how you determined the PCV is fine or how it's been removed, but it plays an important role in keeping oil in the engine and in sealing the rings.
    It basically keeps pressure from building in the crankcase and at times creates vacuum in there.
    I have a ball valve on my PCV hose between the manifold and the valve to adjust the flow, and I can tell you that if it is closed too far the engine leaks all over.
    A compression test and a leakdown test should be done to see if it's actually the rings.

  • What to do when your bolts are melted?

    I have bad news...the front "melted" bolts are welds also. I use a 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and gloves and face, arm, eye, ear protection and carefully remove only the raised bead portion of the weld. Pry a little and see if it comes apart, then grind some more where it looks like it's holding. It's not really a good job for a beginner, angle grinders are dangerous and that particular job will require some skill.
    If you decide to grind them a little tip is that the metal will start to turn blue when it gets thin.
    That's when you pry, twist, or pull the bracket to start a crack between the two pieces. Grind some more...
    It does suck.
    Also, grinding throws a shower of sparks which can start a fire. The sparks are red-hot pieces of metal and grinding wheel and they don't disappear when they cool, they become abrasive dust.
    The dust gets on your face and hands and then you rub it into your eyes, where the metal fragments can lodge in your cornea.
    And if you do this in the driveway and that dust gets rained on you will get an almost instant bright rust stain.
    I think I would just sawzall the brackets off flush and leave the welded parts. Then develop a new mounting plan.

  • Looking for a WWII era Willy's/Jeep

    There's a guy named Tom who has one and is really into the whole military aspect, fake 50 caliber and all!
    I think he has a small facebook jeep club called Rockrats. Maybe look him up on there, or I might be able to dig up his number.

  • No more BlueJ

    Seems weird they would underdrive the power steering. If they don't explain what's better about the 6.5 I would stay stock. Maybe under a severe load the extra leverage of the bigger pulley is helpful?
    The build is looking good.
    Can't wait to see the commando get going also!