Ok, opinion time again...
I want to put a cold air intake under the hood of my YJ, and am debating between K&N, Airaid, AEM, and Rock-It. They all look pretty much the same to me. Is there one that truly stands out amongst the rest? What does everyone else run? Or is there a different air intake that is better than what is listed? 
Guess I'm looking for different opinions/trains of thought on the subject. 
From what I read and hear everywhere, it's a bad idea. Makes a cool sound when you stomp on it but thats about it, the way the intake is set up stock is your best bet as far as deep water crossings and all that stuff goes.
depends on what terrain you plan on running... if you get into deep water or mud a lot, definately stick with the stock intake. I've got an ebay cone intake in my XJ, sitting on top of the stock airbox (cheap splash protection) and it's done fairly well in the stuff I run in NJ.
without changing the exhaust, switching the intake to a cone system really won't do much good. I'd suggest a snorkel, as you really get colder air. even with a cone intake, you're still getting air from inside the engine bay. a cone intake just gives you more air, which doesn't do a lot of good without a bigger exhaust.
I only have a cone for my intake because I broke 2 of 3 mounts for the stock airbox and it was cheap. a little better throttle response, but no real extra power.
i suggest avoiding K&N filters. If any body doubts me take your K&N and hold it up to a light and you will see holes in it now the last time i checked holes dont filter dirt and other nasty stuff. I know this because of the fact i used to build dirt track cars when i lived in michigan. kept wondering why engines were only lasting 2 races. Come to find out it was the K&N causing it. i started putting a foam prefilter around the filter and the engines started lasting all season. Just my opinion. I will never use a K&N with out a prefilter.
It's give and take. More filtration= less air & and more air = less filtration. The point of cold air intakes (and really they're just cooler air intakes because heat is relative) is the cooler the air the more dense the intake air charge.
Just last week in class (I go to UTI Exton) I hooked up a Chrysler specific Scan tool up to my Jeep. I got an '06 Rubi, you know.. 4.0 L I-6 in this case. That in conjunction with the dyno it produced 187HP @ 5231 RPM and 207lbft @ 4246 RPM. Ambient temp (room temp) was 75 degrees according to the scan tool. Intake air charge was 97 degrees. I had the hood up awhile so it was able to cool down. What we did next was a little silly. You know that hose for dryers the round tubing? I funneled from inside the cabin to the throttle body and turned on the A/C. Here's the results:
Intake air charge: 72 degrees verified by scan tool
Horsepower: 202 Hp @ 5037 RPM verified by dyno
Torque: 222LbFt @ 4478 RPM verified by dyno
The only problem with the stock filtration system is that bend with the ripples in the tube. A lot of turbulence occurs there with the vortex action created by that ripple bend. If you do get one make sure it's made of TPO (plastic) Metal gets hotter quicker and dissipates heat quicker developing a warmer intake air charge. Remember cooler is more dense which is more incoming air. The engine is nothing more than a sophisticated air pump, more air in and more air out results in more power. And make sure the bends in the tube are smooth as to not create a partial vacuum (scavenging effect) within the intake tube.
That is some awesome info. 
i suggest avoiding K&N filters. If any body doubts me take your K&N and hold it up to a light and you will see holes in it now the last time i checked holes dont filter dirt and other nasty stuff. I know this because of the fact i used to build dirt track cars when i lived in michigan. kept wondering why engines were only lasting 2 races. Come to find out it was the K&N causing it. i started putting a foam prefilter around the filter and the engines started lasting all season. Just my opinion. I will never use a K&N with out a prefilter.
Did you oil your filter. Cause if you do it properly you'll see the oil actually fills in those gaps you see.
Just wondering
I agree, that is some awesome info! 
I'm not looking to make this into a rock crawler or a serious mud bogger. Maybe in the future. I want to keep it a daily driver and for the lighter side of wheeling (if that makes sense). I have thought about the the cone styles of intakes vs. the exterior mounted intakes on side of vehicle. So really overall, I guess unless one does some serious mudding or plays in the water a lot with it, 6 in one, half dozen in the other as far as different manufacturers.
Don't waste your money.... if you really want a "cold air intake" which none of those are as they all still draw air from the engine compartment, get a cone filter from pepboys and cut the end of the stock air tube off.... Those numbers look really impressive until you think of how often you actually are at 5000+ RPM's.....
Here is some interesting reading on K&N and other air filters...
http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?topic=82302.0
there is also a really good link in there...
dry filters still get my vote
Turtle's right, the only time I could think of getting that hig in RPMs is in 4 lo and even then maybe only 3-5 k
Turtle's right, the only time I could think of getting that hig in RPMs is in 4 lo and even then maybe only 3-5 k
If you're running 5K in 4LO, you should probably shift.
gte a sorkle, i have a cai nd id go back to stock if i didnt sell my air box. i guess ill just save up for a snorkel, now . i didnt really see a difference when i ut it on either, except that pretty sweet noise.
I have the AEM intake and throttle body spacer................................sounds cool but not really much else that I could notice
So I guess the choice is clear. From what you are all saying, it is best to stick with the stock air box. And the snorkel is the only real acceptable true air intake? Does anyone make something similar to the snorkel that isn't so invasive? (Defining invasive as the long tube that extends from the side fenderwall up to the top of it).
I think what everyone is saying is that your not really going to get any bang for your buck with a cold air intake and it may actually be adverse if your planning to run in alot of deep mud/water. If that's your plan then the snorkle is definitely your best bet (looks bad a$$ to). If your not going to run in those conditions then maybe leave the stock configuration and spend the cash somewhere else.
Personally, a cold air intake may be beneficial if it was part of a larger overhaul. For example, if you were going to do a complete header back exhaust upgrade, add a performance chip. Then it may make sense. But then again, your going to spend alot for a small gain even with all that.
In the end, to each his (or her) own.
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