Death Wobble.... Split from: What have you done to your Jeep today?

    So I am looking at Control arms... I could just replace the bushings in my stock ones but they are pretty tore up so I'd like to replace them.


    for the uppers I like the Currie (I have them in the rear already)


    Question is... does it come with the axle side bushing?
    all the pics I see doesn't show it included.


    I wanted to go with fixed lowers, and always thought that RE were the best, but it seems that many are having issues with the bushings, are there any other fixed lowers that are good, I don't think I need ADJ lowers if I have ADJ Uppers and cam bolts on the lowers, I can't see needing to adjust it more than that.


    next question, are fixed lowers longer than stock? mainly the RE's but if there are other respectable fixed lowers out there I'd like to know if they are length specific according to lift.

    none that i know of come with the axle housing bushings but the currie kit works great. erica's HP30 has it installed and her jeep rides like glass on the road.


    i think that the RE bushing issues are a little better with the new design, but maybe one of the quadratec folks could answer better? maybe they hear more about the returns than we would. have you looked at the clayton arms? they make short arms now. also, rokmen arms are looking better and better - check them out too.


    http://claytonoffroad.com/index.php?cPath=27_31
    http://www.rokmen.com/products…t_upper_control_arms.html

    i would say to go with a tie rod/drag link or check if its bent

    99&#39; tj SE with 4 chipmunks workin&#39; hard under the hood<br />32 x 11.50 poopcomp m/t<br />4 inch super lift<br />teraflex quick dickie&#39;s

    You could try running the front upper in some to throw some more caster into it to see if it helps, right??


    -Brad

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

    Edited once, last by ruquik ().

    Quote from Quantum73

    EDIT: Keith beat me to the post...


    You can do a hard-reset of all the data without waiting 8 hrs but why would you want to? There is zero reason to do that. A code is a code, it will clear itself, or it won't... Perhaps address the issue instead of forcing the computer to relearn everything over the next 500 or so miles?


    Here FWIW, http://www.rubiconownersforum.…iewtopic.php?f=38&t=59653, since "Internet Research" is so popular these days... :innocent:


    Done it on 2 different Cummins powered dodges for stupid over boost, fuel pressure, cruise control codes. Several people with a lot more 24v experience suggested 8 hour hard resets. IT WORKED both times with no re-occurrence and worked for others as well. Codes can randomly be thrown for no apparent reason, even if nothing is wrong.


    Besides, disconnecting the battery over night doesn't cost or hurt ANYTHING to try so why the hell not try ????


    -Brad


    Maybe thats only a Cumminis/Dodge thing??

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

    Edited once, last by ruquik ().

    EDIT: ;D


    Try checking the resistance across your TPS. You should be able to find the factory specs and compare them to your readings. That will be a good indication of the state of the sensor. Make sure your temperature during testing is close to the temp listed for the specs.


    You may also wish to read this thread about similar issues - http://www.jeepz.com/forum/cj-…tps-error-p0123-help.html


    Another potentially useful thread - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…-clock-spring-huh-168215/


    I don't have time to verify the wiring in this diagram as it relates to your year, but this may prove useful for troubleshooting.


    The TPS and code isn't really a concern right now... new sensor is 34 bucks... gonna put it in and see if the code clears, the end!


    I appreciate the advice/opinions... seems like some think hard resets are fine wile others think they are bad...


    I don't know, If I can fix the problem and the code clears, then No reason to reset... if not then I'll do some more research on how to clear it.



    Gonna double check my toe-in and caster this morning and take it on a test drive to the auto-parts store to get the TPS...

    i wouldn't ignore the TPS sensor. it left my stranded on the side of the road. Got pushed home.

    *bLaTaNt DiSrEgarD oFfRoAd*<br /><br />&quot;Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American Soldier. <br />One died for your soul; the other for your freedom.&quot;

    Quote from NitroRubi


    i wouldn't ignore the TPS sensor. it left my stranded on the side of the road. Got pushed home.


    I remember that. Didn't remember that being the issue. Yeah ,I will agree with what others have said. Fix/change it.

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

    Quote from NitroRubi


    i wouldn't ignore the TPS sensor. it left my stranded on the side of the road. Got pushed home.


    I am not ignoring it... I replaced it 5 mins ago.


    swapped in new TPS, started it up and the check engine light went out... great, but the code is still there.
    So if the TSP was the issue, the code should clear its self, Right?


    if not then from what Quantam73 said, I may have other issues... I will keep an eye on it.


    Quote from turtle


    What tire pressure are you running?


    25psi, I did the chalk method and the line wore pretty evenly. might try 22psi and do it again.


    I checked the caster and DS was at 3.5 degrees & PS was at 4.5 degrees.
    I evened them out at 4, that was really the best I could do with the cam washers.
    put the angle finder on the flat spot inboard of the lower shock mounts and the degrees are in negative (top ball joint behind lower ball joint)


    driving around dover I tried to hit every pothole and bump on the road, at different speeds from 40-50mph


    there is still a slight shimmy, but it is really only noticeable at 45ish and when I hit a bump... shimmy for a second then gone.
    no where near D/W and not constant like before with the 33" MTZ's

    Quote from james78

    I checked the caster and DS was at 3.5 degrees & PS was at 4.5 degrees.
    I evened them out at 4, that was really the best I could do with the cam washers.
    put the angle finder on the flat spot inboard of the lower shock mounts and the degrees are in negative (top ball joint behind lower ball joint)


    driving around dover I tried to hit every pothole and bump on the road, at different speeds from 40-50mph


    there is still a slight shimmy, but it is really only noticeable at 45ish and when I hit a bump... shimmy for a second then gone.
    no where near D/W and not constant like before with the 33" MTZ's


    More caster seems like the right idea, but I guess there are many factors to consider.


    6-7 was the number being thrown around this thread below.


    Check post #82 on how they "adjusted" the front upper control arms


    Good Read
    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…-thread-long-read-663777/

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

    it eventually shut the engine off if i went past like 15-20% throttle.

    *bLaTaNt DiSrEgarD oFfRoAd*<br /><br />&quot;Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American Soldier. <br />One died for your soul; the other for your freedom.&quot;

    Quote from james78


    so when flexing the jeep today, I noticed how much the stock bushings flexed...


    is this a sign of a bad bushing???


    Something has to flex. The bushing is there so the metal don't flex.
    You will not really know if the bushings are bad until you remove the control arm.
    The more you lift and the more you flex the harder it is on the bushings.

    Quote from CAPTAIN

    Something has to flex. The bushing is there so the metal don't flex.
    You will not really know if the bushings are bad until you remove the control arm.
    The more you lift and the more you flex the harder it is on the bushings.


    Actually, the stock control arms are designed to flex also.


    Like Bob said something has to give or the bracket would be torn off.

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