YJ 1/2 door inside panels

  • Two questions:


    1. Has anyone seen or installed the diamond plate interior panels? Q-tec sells them, they are same price as plastic OEM style. Just wondered pros and cons.


    2. Has anyone insulated their 1/2 doors? Thinking about using expanding foam insulation inside of door to make speakers sound better and maybe quiet it down a bit with top on. It is cheap and easy to do.


    Thanks!


    DrJ

  • Quote from "DrJ"


    2. Has anyone insulated their 1/2 doors? Thinking about using expanding foam insulation inside of door to make speakers sound better and maybe quiet it down a bit with top on. It is cheap and easy to do.


    Be sure it's closed cell foam, otherwise it'll absorb and hold water like a sponge.

  • yep. i would go to a stereo shop and ask for some of the sound deadining spray.
    there are a couple of diffrent brands, dynomat is the most common.
    its specififly made for spraying in doors to deaden the sound.

  • Quote from "bmf24"

    yep. i would go to a stereo shop and ask for some of the sound deadining spray.
    there are a couple of diffrent brands, dynomat is the most common.
    its specififly made for spraying in doors to deaden the sound.



    Is this dynomat stuff an expanding foam?


    I'll also check out the expanding stuff I saw at Lowes to see if it is closed-cell.



    DrJ

  • Quote from "Keith_C"

    I used these on my dash speakers, they will do what you want and also protect the speakers from water.




    Great idea, but I'm also after a little noise insulation. I thought the expanding foam might be a good idea. If I get OEM-style plastic panels, I'll probably move the speakers in the doors to one of those center pods that go under the dash on the floor. If I go with the diamond plate panels, I'd rather put the speakers back in the doors to dress that big steel panel up a bit.

  • Dynomat would be easier to install. Peel the backing and put it on. With the spray foam you have a huge expanding mess on your hands. Are you thinking of just spraying it in the door itself? What about the lock hardware? Just some thoughts. :shrug:

    Bryan

  • With the inside panel removed, I have decent access to the mechanism, which is all in the upper 3-4" of the door. I thought I'd put clear tape over the openings and spray the foam from the bottom. I'd only try to fill the bottom two thirds, but if it started to get near the mechanisms, I'd just keep the door mechanicals moving until thr foam stopped rising. There's nothing delicate in the door, just a moving metal rod from the inside door latch to the striker.


    Either that or put a cardboard sleeve over the rod (like a wrapping paper roll).


    DrJ



    ...oh, and the doors don't have locks.

  • Quote from "DrJ"

    Is this dynomat stuff an expanding foam?


    It's Dynamat, and the spray on (Dynashield) is designed to be sprayed to a thickness of 1/16-1/8".


    It does not expand.

  • Quote from "DrJ"

    With the inside panel removed, I have decent access to the mechanism, which is all in the upper 3-4" of the door. I thought I'd put clear tape over the openings and spray the foam from the bottom. I'd only try to fill the bottom two thirds, but if it started to get near the mechanisms, I'd just keep the door mechanicals moving until thr foam stopped rising. There's nothing delicate in the door, just a moving metal rod from the inside door latch to the striker.


    Can water get into those doors like full doors ?


    Most car doors have drains in the bottom, would not want to fill those up.

  • Assuming I find closed-cell foam, I can easily put a few holes in the bottom of the door. A thin coating wouldn't be worth the effort, I'd use your foam enclosure idea first. It isn't a big deal, I just thought if the expanding foam I saw on the shelf would work, for $8 a can or so, why not try it.

  • Quote from "DrJ"

    Assuming I find closed-cell foam, I can easily put a few holes in the bottom of the door. A thin coating wouldn't be worth the effort, I'd use your foam enclosure idea first. It isn't a big deal, I just thought if the expanding foam I saw on the shelf would work, for $8 a can or so, why not try it.


    I just know from working with boats that the cheap stuff will hold water and would just promote rust against steel.


    Just FYI, that expanding foam can extert considerable force when contained, care must be used or it will do bad things.

  • keith is right, you dont want to use regular "Great Stuff" foam on your car, it will trap water and help your doors rust out.
    plus you done want to fill the inside of your door up with foam, not only is it heavier, it will probibly interfier with the locks and handels.
    when i worked at a stereo shop i saw a car that used that foam (and other scary stuff). after i scraped all that junk out i saw the sheet metal was starting to rust.
    this was all in the trunk of a car.
    after cleaning all the rust i sprayed the dynasheild (thanks for the spelling correction keith) it was 10x better than the foam ever was. its worth the couple extra $.

  • steve,
    there is underbody spray at all the parts stores (tall aerosol cans) that is a black coating you can spray all you want into there. it's non-expanding, deadens sound extremely well, should quell the rattles within the door, and won't weight down the door considerably.
    chris


    p.s. best of all - the underbody spray is dirt cheap in comparison to the dynamatt.

  • Thanks everyone.


    Chris, last week I cleaned out the wheelwells and sprayed that rubberized undercoating in them. It came out great and DID seem to make a little noise difference even though that's wasn't my goal. I still have a can ot two around, so I'll use it, thanks.


    DrJ

  • I've decided that rather than spending $180 on steel or plastic panels, I'll try to repaint mine (again). I used auto trim paint from Pep Girls, and it scrapes off every time my shoe hits the door.


    Why didn't I use Krylon Fusion? Beats me... I should have, and will this time.


    I'll break up the old paint with steel wool, but what do you guy clean the surface (plastic) with before painting? Acetone? Can I buy that at Dover Hardware, too?


    Also, does Rhinoliner (or equivalent) stick to plastic? I thought I'd mask off the bottom portion of the door and spray it with something scuff proof and more durable. Any ideas?



    DrJ

  • steve,
    i think that acetone works fine - but xylene may work better. make sure you test a safe place on it though....i don't want people mad at me for having their whole door panel melting away on them :) i picked mine up at sears (i think) for a few bucks. there's some in my garage still if you want to stop on by this evening and grab it. oh, no idea about the herculiner...but maybe ed, sal, or paul could help you - all of them have some experience in herc'ing stuff.
    chris

  • Quote from "quadna71"

    steve,
    i think that acetone works fine - but xylene may work better. make sure you test a safe place on it though....i don't want people mad at me for having their whole door panel melting away on them :) i picked mine up at sears (i think) for a few bucks. there's some in my garage still if you want to stop on by this evening and grab it. oh, no idea about the herculiner...but maybe ed, sal, or paul could help you - all of them have some experience in herc'ing stuff.
    chris


    The herculiner sticks very well to plastic...the plastic trim behind the seat in my MJ as well as my kickpanels were covered. Just make sure to prep them w/ xylene like Chris suggested...


    --Ian

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