[img width=900 height=1200]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.co…f4cd2847bce3feaea9613.jpg[/img]
Although not tonight...I know what tomorrow has in store for me. Should I blue lock tight the step/rubi rail bolts
If they bolt thru they should have lock washers or locknuts.
Locktite would be redundant and a waste.
And if they go into nutserts you will never get them back out.
I may go for 148 as that was my IQ the last time I was tested.
My dilemma is it seems to increase at each yearly test.
Now, because of my smartness, I see this may benefit me as the higher numbers cost less than the lower ones.
So, it stands to reason after doing an asphicixcial plate-biased recalculation of the equation that just because you have a lower number really doesn't mean you are any smarter than those that have a higher number. 
Last night, I was going to wire up the DRLs in my new LED headlights. I was looking for an ignition hot but wasn't able to find one that I'd trust not to cause some sort of unwanted gremlins. I was probing around in the engine bay and the only one I found was off of the starter solenoid/relay. It was the canted connection which I believe is for the coil. I don't want to tap into anything inside the cab (if possible), wire to an independent switch, or off of the headlight switch or relays.
Does anyone know of an ignition hot readily available on a '89 4.2 YJ?
I had some small fogs in the bumper of my '97 F250 that I wired to act as DRL's.
I used the parking brake circuit and a relay to control them.
Basically if the parking brake was engaged they would be off.
Unengaged they would come on.
There will be times when the ignition is on that you may not really want DRL's on. 
Every PDC on just about every vehicle is located under the hood.
If you are going to penetrate the firewall, I would fuse that lead.
Keep it as close to the battery as possible. You will have less voltage drop.
The factory PDC's are not fused from the battery. Just keep it short and clean so there's no way for the wire to get pinched or rubbed bare. Use good quality lugs on the ends.
I would use either #8 or #6 to feed it.
That being said, be sure everything that is fed from the box is fused.
Completely false. On anything newer then a cj its a unitbearing. Its preload is built in. The nut just locks it to the stub shaft
If the preload is preset, how is it they fall apart without the shaft and nut in place?
Might as well just mount a cutting board to it.
Might look a little strange, but not nearly as disgusting. ;D
For those saying they don't flake off, here is my 2008 JK that is definitely a real Rubicon.
Just get them at Quadratec and install them with soapy water to avoid bubbles.
Nice bait board! 
Doesn't really make sense.
A Jasper rebuilt wouldn't usually include the PCM.
Display More
Quick question: I'm looking at a Cherokee that's for sale and the motor was swapped a while back. It has the same 4.0L I6 that came in it originally just new. The computer was also swapped at that time. I'm concerned about the DE DMV scanner showing a different VIN. Is that something I need to be concerned with?
The owner is unsure what if any VIN it will show.
Thanks!
Won't matter to DMV.
You may get a light on the dash because of a VIN mismatch between the PCM and the cluster. It's stored in both.
Better check the VIN and make sure it really is a Rubicon. >:(
Start with AMC, Dane 30, 35, 44 and Chrysler.
What model Jeep is it?
I thought the same thing.
Regarding both points. 
[youtube]
All the cool cats have one on a retractable reel...
I'm cool.
It's just not mounted to anything. LOL
I would ask if yours is still working 4.5 years later but you've only driven it a couple thousand miles since then so you've probably only lifted the hood to jump start it.
And actually, I keep a battery tender on it most of the time.
I would ask if yours is still working 4.5 years later but you've only driven it a couple thousand miles since then so you've probably only lifted the hood to jump start it.
Still shining bright.
You silly girl you!
I am now a member of a very small and exclusive club...TJ's with underhood working lights.
[img width=1200 height=675]http://i.imgur.com/sc6U2Ua.jpg[/img]
So far behind the curve.
