lift is here... wrenching STILL continues.... Problems (GRRRRR!!!)

    I am about 80% done.


    Items remaining:
    Readjust track bars and upper control arms
    Brakes
    Move my exhaust pipe (it was either put in shocks or move the exhaust :doh:)
    Put skid plates back on
    Tighten everything down
    Do an alignment
    Rocker guards
    Bumper and Swing Arm


    I cant work on it everyday after work, so it might not be ready till next weekend.


    My camera broke early morning on the first day for no good reason, so I will be sure to post pics once I get them from Justin!

    As I write this, I have not yet tried to get the pics and video onto the website. This may or may not work out, but I haven't forgotten about you Liz. Anyway, here goes...

    I'm gonna test with a video from YouTube first. I apologize for the darkness in the movie, where we were working there were no windows [youtube=425,350]_xpbjXZyPsQ[/youtube]

    I got the rear all tightened up last nite. I am going to make the front adjustments tonight.


    What should the tow be on the front tires for the alignment?

    :bang: :cuss: :bang:


    So after cutting off my exhaust pipe I took her for a spin Thursday nite. The steering felt a little wierd but everything else was ok so I brought it back and re-adjusted (shortened) the front uppers (for caster alignment to fix the steering thing) to where the instructions said to (about 3/4 inch longer than stock). I had gotten the tow to within 1/8 in. I took it out today and I can now only drive straight :upset: in 4 high or low, 2wd feels almost perfect. Once I turn a little in 4h or 4l I get a horrible mechanical noise. SO...


    What I think happened was that by shortening the uppers for a positive caster the pumpkin turned down and I ended up increasing the angle on the front driveshaft and when i turn the wheel it reaks havock on it. In the back I got the sye which solved this, but nothing changed in the front. Is there a front driveshaft that goes with this, or do I need to find the right length on the uppers (correct caster). This brings up another point.....


    Caster
    Positive is when the top knuckle is back and negative is when it is in front, right?
    And I want a positive caster so that when I let go of the wheel the jeep goes straight, right?


    I also get a clunk when in lower gears if I step on the throttle a little more than easy. I dont know if this is related.


    Guidance PLEASE :bang:

    you want the top ball joint to be back farther than the bottom one if you are standing parrallel looking at the brake disc...i use an angle finder on the bottom of axles knuckle to about 6-7 degrees....i also never seen any instructions that said uppers 3/4" longer than stock and the lowers at stock length...that would deff throw you out of wack. you have to lengthen the upper and lower arms the same amount no matter how much lift you have if you adjust them at all....the RE lowers are same length as stock unless they have recently changed since i installed the same kit on a rubicon about 2 months ago and didnt have these issues... :shrug:

    Quote from Keith_C


    I've heard of adjusting the REAR Uppers 3/4" longer than stock when adding a SYE/CV combo, but that would definitely NOT work for the front.


    correct you are....i knew i shoulda came and helped out...women can't wait though... :innocent:

    Quote from Meeper


    correct you are....i knew i shoulda came and helped out...women can't wait though... :innocent:


    :laughabove:


    It snowed today... I wanted the jeep ready to play in.


    I would take her somewhere to get aligned, but dont know who would actually adjust the caster in addition to straightening the steering wheel and tow. :shrug:

    If your thinking of taking it to a shop try Everest Auto on kirkwood highway right outside newark. Ask for Adam, he's great with jeeps. (He's also on the site sometimes) Hope it works out.

    Quote from lizigirl

    :laughabove:


    It snowed today... I wanted the jeep ready to play in.


    I would take her somewhere to get aligned, but dont know who would actually adjust the caster in addition to straightening the steering wheel and tow. :shrug:


    an alingment shop cant do anything more than u can do at home with a few hand tools


    search the web
    there are several good write ups on how to do it


    edit ...
    here is one
    http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html


    its cake walk to do it

    Quote from 04TJguy


    If your thinking of taking it to a shop try Everest Auto on kirkwood highway right outside newark. Ask for Adam, he's great with jeeps. (He's also on the site sometimes) Hope it works out.


    yeah liz, ask for Christian and say Joyce sent you, she his good friends with him and takes her jeep there all the time for oil changes....or if you want to drive to my house then i can fix it.

    You are playing way too much into the caster issues.... Truthfully what I have found, out of all the jeeps I have done, as long as the uppers are the same length, the jeep drives well..... As far as only being able to drive straight? I dont' understand what you are getting at but if you put it into 4wd, esp 4lo you will have lots of resistance as you are turning espcially at low speeds.... The clunk and maybe some of your driving troubles probably have to do with the t-case linkage as it really sounds like in 2wd you are not fully out of 4wd...

    Quote from turtle


    You are playing way too much into the caster issues.... Truthfully what I have found, out of all the jeeps I have done, as long as the uppers are the same length, the jeep drives well..... As far as only being able to drive straight? I dont' understand what you are getting at but if you put it into 4wd, esp 4lo you will have lots of resistance as you are turning espcially at low speeds.... The clunk and maybe some of your driving troubles probably have to do with the t-case linkage as it really sounds like in 2wd you are not fully out of 4wd...


    yeah, almost sounds like someone didnt pay attention when doing the SYE....i wonder if this thing is stuck in 4wd all the time...


    see liz, this is what happens when you are imaptient. :razz:

    in 2wd you said it drives perfectly, it's only in 4wd that you are having problems?
    it will clunk in 4wd while turning on pavement. that is normal. if it is not coming out of 4wd, that may be something as simple as your tcase linkage.
    find a little dirt or gravel to check 4wd, not pavement

    After we bolted up the transfer case, before we connected the driveshafts, and connected the linkage, we put it 2wd and spun the back yoke and it didnt spin the front, then we put it in 4wd and neutral and in 4wd it spun both, in neutral nothing. So I would assume that it is working properly. I guess then I should jack it up, take off the tires and run it to make sure (after I lengthen the uppers a hair).


    For 65$, should I get the OME Steering Damper?

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