New Project - D60's and Other Stuff

    So my latest project is putting D60's under the Rubi. Funny thing is that I have always done REALLY well offroad with my current setup. But I am also REALLY easy on the skinny pedal so breakage has never been an issue. And having the Clayton LA with Hi-Clearance Brackets and full skid system never hurt either. ;D But, I want to go to 37's and I just can't see "wasting" $1,500 on Chro-Mo axles front and rear as I have no illusions about my stock axles and lockers holding up to 37" Toyo's on the trails/lines I would like to be running. I do plan on keeping it a DD which shouldn't be an issue with this setup. I am going to shorten the front to use a 1979 long side shaft like Ian did which should bring me down to just over ~66" WMS. Cutting rear down to ~65" WMS. Also going to run 5.5" BS wheels. Full-width is just a bit too wide for my tastes so based on my current setup, I should be less than 3" wider than I am now both front and rear. So the plan so far is:


    1979 Ford D60 Rear (already in my garage and in great shape)
    1989 Ford HP D60 Front (still need to pickup from Extreme Axles but is bought)
    Superior 5.13's (this creates a quirk in that you need the 4.10 and lower ARB carrier as the 5.13 is a thick gear, the break is 4.10/4.56)
    ARB Front & Rear
    ARB Hi-Vol Pump with small receiver on quick disconnect for mounting in bed of Jeep
    Ballistic Hi-Steer Arms
    Strikeback Offroad Custom Steering System
    Clayton Rear Truss
    Ruff Stuff Front Truss
    Assorted Ruff-Stuff Brackets
    K20 Rear Discs and Calipers w/Monte Carlo Lines
    Crane Differential Covers (probably), Riddler's look pretty good also...
    Toyo 37x13.50r17 Tires
    Maybe Walker Evans Beadlocks, maybe not, undecided. Need 5.5" BS to keep width where I want it.
    sPOD with Source mainly for ARB controls as they have the direct harness for it now, also has air gauge
    Xenon 6" Flat Flares (until I go with flat fenders up front and Rokmen Strykers out back)
    Wet Okole Seats with Heaters (to be hardwired into dash where locker switch was)


    So, based on all this, I will be selling the following in a couple months:


    2006 Rubi front and rear D44 axles with lockers (stock shafts, never needed to be replaced)
    4.88 Superior gears
    Currie Steering System
    Axles are set up for a Clayton LA with hi-clearance brackets for front & rear
    Four (4) 1.25" Allow Wheel Spacers
    Five (5) Mickey Thompson MTZ 315x75r16 on Rock Crusher Steelies (~60% - 70% tread left, even wear, rims good)
    Rubi Fender Flares


    As a package deal, someone could really easily make a huge upgrade... :innocent:

    What's the WMS on that rear you're buying? My 78-79 was 66" already. The rears are easy to shorten but they're so cheap (hell, my rear housing was free) it might be worth just finding one that's already a good width. Oh, and remember to get the spindles bored even if you don't do 35 spline shafts now although I'd highly recommend it as chromo rear shafts are only a few bucks more and much beefier.


    --Ian

    Quote from clendaniel


    What's the WMS on that rear you're buying? My 78-79 was 66" already. The rears are easy to shorten but they're so cheap (hell, my rear housing was free) it might be worth just finding one that's already a good width. Oh, and remember to get the spindles bored even if you don't do 35 spline shafts now although I'd highly recommend it as chromo rear shafts are only a few bucks more and much beefier.


    --Ian


    For some reason I was thinking 69" but now that you mention it, I think it is 66". Which means no cutting the rear. :up: Have to measure it tonight to verify. Definitely boring out the spindles, or just putting D70 spindles on. I am going 35 spline from the start, why not right? ;D

    Curious why you chose an 89 HP d60 vs. the 78-79 d60 which can be installed without cutting. I run the 79 front 60 full width with h1 wheels and 1.5" spacers which puts the BS on the wheels at about 5.5. I pass inspection full width with sahara flares and some 3 inch makeshift flare material attatched to them. With the 6" flares you plan to run, you would easily pass inspection full width. Not knocking what your doing just being nosey. :shrug:

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
    2000 Cherokee Police package, Beater....


    I may be slowest and the stupidest

    Quote from 2000sahara


    Curious why you chose an 89 HP d60 vs. the 78-79 d60 which can be installed without cutting. I run the 79 front 60 full width with h1 wheels and 1.5" spacers which puts the BS on the wheels at about 5.5. I pass inspection full width with sahara flares and some 3 inch makeshift flare material attatched to them. With the 6" flares you plan to run, you would easily pass inspection full width. Not knocking what your doing just being nosey. :shrug:


    After wheeling with TheMistaken and considering the options, I just felt that having the front full-width was a bit much. And then, after doing some research in the Dana manual and talking about it, the 78-78 long side swap in looked pretty reasonable. 2.41" shorter to bring the overall width down and the short side is 3.5" shorter than the 78-79 to keep the pumpkin over to avoid clearance issues. Just need a bit more work fitting the spring perch on the driver side. So all in all, got me the dimensions I wanted and can still run stock length shafts, just from different year axles. ;D


    But, there really is no compelling reason to shorten the '89 front as it is the same WMS as the '78 - '79. Who knows, when we (TheMistaken and I) get right down to it I may keep it full width. I have a line on 5 H2 wheels right now so I plan to see how the axle looks full-width with the 13.50 Toyo, H2 wheels, and 6" Xenon prior to making the final decision. I am not interested in a large amount of work for a very small gain. And although I hate to say it this way, if it looks good then I will keep it full width. :doh:


    Your rig looks great, saw it Sat. when we picked up the shock mounts. :beer:

    Yeah I guess its a toss up. Its a bit more work for the 89 axle but if you already have it or got a good deal on it, why not....Right? If you do decide to keep it full width the 79 makes life a bit easier and spare axles are a dime a dozen. Either way, D60s bring you to a whole new level of street cred...... :driving: Good luck with your project, sounds like you have good start.
    BTW. Thanks for the complements

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
    2000 Cherokee Police package, Beater....


    I may be slowest and the stupidest

    Keeping coils and without having the springs splayed outward he's not gonna be able to run a 88-91.5 fullwidth...the spring perches barely fit on the short side and in order to center the axle the coils have to curve outward. I know Alan (1tonTJ) ran his that way for awhile with no issues but IMHO it looks a little odd and isn't quite 'right' I cut mine down both for this reason and also that to me 3.5" of diff in trackwidth looks odd on something as short as a TJ. :shrug:


    FWIW the later axles are also not 'neck-down' shafts so if staying w/ stockers they're a tad stronger. Also, he'll still have easy spares as done correctly you run a 88-91.5 driverside inner and a 78-79 passenger.


    --Ian

    quit talking about it and just start doing. hahaha Made some changes to your parts. Taking the rear to either get bored or use 70 spindles as said. Will get it all together as soon as Brian starts ordering the parts.


    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.<br />-Frederic Bastiat

    I would be interested in the D44's front and rear, as well as Rubi flares. Depending of course on $$$ and time frame.

    If you want 35 spline outers, you can't use the stock hubs... Drive slugs are just a better choice for reliability and aren't an issue w/ drivability considering you are going selectable.... If you are truly concerned you can use poly performance slugs as they have inserts that you can remove to make them act like hubs...

    Quote from turtle


    If you want 35 spline outers, you can't use the stock hubs... Drive slugs are just a better choice for reliability and aren't an issue w/ drivability considering you are going selectable.... If you are truly concerned you can use poly performance slugs as they have inserts that you can remove to make them act like hubs...


    Sorry, I didn't provide a very clear response before. If the hubs are trashed, I will probably just go ahead and do a 35 spline upgrade. I have been entertaining drive slugs as well since they essentially provide the same functionality I have now. Good info on the Poly ones, I was not aware of their capabilities. However, if the hubs are good, I will probably just stick with them until I have a problem, then upgrade to 35 spline. Better? ;D

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