So I'm in an extreme need for a new Muffler and was looking yesterday and it seems it would be easier and probably beneficial to do a Cat-Back exhaust. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Dynomax Cat Back Exhaust. The little bit I have found and have read it seems fine and its one of the cheaper exhausts on the market.
Dynomax Super Turbo Cat Back Exhaust
I'm not ordering from Q-Tech only because I can get it through Autozone. But I was wonder if anyone has any opinion on this exhaust or know of a decent Cat back system.
Muffler/ Exhaust
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Get ahold of Deadfeat... he just installed a dynomax replacement in his Jeep.
http://www.delawareja.com/foru…topic=22019.3950#lastPost -
From amazon, dynomax gives a lifetime replacment, and amazon handles the exchange
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From amazon, dynomax gives a lifetime replacment, and amazon handles the exchangeAwesome! Thank you!
How do you like yours?
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http://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-…-1&keywords=dynomax+17731
Same muffler $45 , so your paying $150 for a tailpipe yikes...
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FYI, The muffler has a good sound without being obnoxious. Idle gives a nice throb, and you can certainly hear it when you get on it.
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FYI, The muffler has a good sound without being obnoxious. Idle gives a nice throb, and you can certainly hear it when you get on it.x2. I also have that set-up, and have been very pleased with the sound and performance. I did go with the cat-back option (from Summit Racing) because my whole exhaust was beyond repair...
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x2. I also have that set-up, and have been very pleased with the sound and performance. I did go with the cat-back option (from Summit Racing) because my whole exhaust was beyond repair...
Yea I saw that Summit sells the cat back and was pretty cheap. I been under the jeep to try and decide and the pipes are fine at the moment but are pretty covered in rust so, I was really just thinking proactive. I think I'm gonna go with the muffler for now and if I have to get the pipes when the time comes.
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http://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-…-1&keywords=dynomax+17731Same muffler $45 , so your paying $150 for a tailpipe yikes...
What are you running yours on? from the looks (well at least from every other website) This only fits up to a 99 TJ. And unfortunately the one for mine isn't as cheap. But that's what I'm gonna end up going with.
Thanks
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One more option to check out. Mighty Muffler will bend up pipe for you. I dont know if its cheaper than the pre-bent but it might be comparable. They do stainless also if you want to be once and done with it. There on philly pike in North wilmington and did my cat back for me. Mine wasent cheap but mine is also re-routed for a tummy tuck and exit through the rear quarter so there was a lot of extra work.
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One more option to check out. Mighty Muffler will bend up pipe for you. I dont know if its cheaper than the pre-bent but it might be comparable. They do stainless also if you want to be once and done with it. There on philly pike in North wilmington and did my cat back for me. Mine wasent cheap but mine is also re-routed for a tummy tuck and exit through the rear quarter so there was a lot of extra work.Awesome thanks! I'm definitely gonna look into that. So you had to modify your Stock exhaust for the tummy tuck? That is going to be my next big mod and so definitely something I need take care of.
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Awesome thanks! I'm definitely gonna look into that. So you had to modify your Stock exhaust for the tummy tuck? That is going to be my next big mod and so definitely something I need take care of.
Not so much had to but the tummy tuck pushed the muffler up so high that I was getting contact on the heat sheild and skid and getting awfull vibes and noises from it. The other issue was after doing my sye I just cut the pipe after the muffler and put a turn down on it because I couldent get the pipe to fit where it was supposed to go anymore after changing the pinion angle and everything else. I cant remember specifically what the issue was but I know everything was all out of whack, it may have been the the shock placement after it was relocated. When I fixed it I wanted to get a custom job vs trying to snake another stock pipe through. Plus the stainless will last alot longer. If your doing a tummy tuck and or sye though I would recomend holding off on your exhaust work untill that time or after because you may need to adjust things and doing things twice sucks. It all depends on how you set it up though and how much the t-case is raised. You might not have any issues at all but I know mine was a can of worms to get it all right. -
Not so much had to but the tummy tuck pushed the muffler up so high that I was getting contact on the heat sheild and skid and getting awfull vibes and noises from it. The other issue was after doing my sye I just cut the pipe after the muffler and put a turn down on it because I couldent get the pipe to fit where it was supposed to go anymore after changing the pinion angle and everything else. I cant remember specifically what the issue was but I know everything was all out of whack, it may have been the the shock placement after it was relocated. When I fixed it I wanted to get a custom job vs trying to snake another stock pipe through. Plus the stainless will last alot longer. If your doing a tummy tuck and or sye though I would recomend holding off on your exhaust work untill that time or after because you may need to adjust things and doing things twice sucks. It all depends on how you set it up though and how much the t-case is raised. You might not have any issues at all but I know mine was a can of worms to get it all right.So your saying I'm gonna have tons of fun on my hands when I do take up that project! lol But I will definitely wait on any exhaust work. Thanks
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Not a mess but theres more thats involved than just an sye. When you do your sye you will be getting a custom driveshaft at that point. To get the correct measurments you will want the t-case and pinion at the point they will remain before measuring/ordering the shaft. Thats why a tummy tuck and sye are good to do at one time. To get the pinion angle correct you will need adjustable upper control arms. To allow the axle to pivot for the desired pinion angle you will need a track bar relocation bracket as well as either shock relocation brackets or spring bucket relocation, The other option is to move the shocks entirely but I dont have any experience with that. Once thats all done then you will know if your stock exhaust pipe will still snake through the stock locations. O and depending on the tummy tuck you may need a mild body lift, mine was a custom tt but I needed an inch body lift to get the space I needed. You may also want to do an engine lift when you do the tummy tuck to keep the driveline at the same angles and keep your shifter from hammering the dash wich will happen if you lift the t-case and not the engine. My stick ended up being so high and close to the dash even after that, I ended up putting in a short shifter kit and put a 45 degree bend half way up just to put the shifter back to a comfortable location. Then when you do the engine lift you'll need to raise the fan shroud or go to an efan setup so you dont have to worry about it otherwise your fan will have contact with the shroud and either kill the fan clutch or just seize and let the engine overheat (thats what mine did). So, thats pretty much the laundry list of a tummy tuck/sye install if you want everything to line up. Its possible that some have had less to mod when doing this but my tummy tuck is extremely high so it changed the angles drastically. But that was my can of worms. It probably took me close to a year to get everything ironed out as I hadent taken all of this in to consideration originally. The engine lift, e-fan, shift kit and exhaust were all after the fact.
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No problem. I would still recomend talking with some guys that did bolt on t-case tummy tuck skids though. They might not have had to do as much to make it all work as I did. My skid is flush rail to rail though and also has dom tubing cradling the t-case so the t-case skid is way up there over stock. O and I also forgot about the 4wd linkage. Mine is cut and rewelded to fit but a novak cable shifter is probably nessisary with most tummy tucks to clear the tub.
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No problem. I would still recomend talking with some guys that did bolt on t-case tummy tuck skids though. They might not have had to do as much to make it all work as I did. My skid is flush rail to rail though and also has dom tubing cradling the t-case so the t-case skid is way up there over stock. O and I also forgot about the 4wd linkage. Mine is cut and rewelded to fit but a novak cable shifter is probably nessisary with most tummy tucks to clear the tub.I did read some on the bolt on, that's probably what I will do. I was gonna get Mike at Delmarva offroad when he still had the shop to do it but thats kind of not an option anymore. But like I said it will be a while so I still have time to ask around and read up. And definitely will be saving some extra money in case I do have to replace anything else to accommodate.
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No problem. I would still recomend talking with some guys that did bolt on t-case tummy tuck skids though. They might not have had to do as much to make it all work as I did. My skid is flush rail to rail though and also has dom tubing cradling the t-case so the t-case skid is way up there over stock. O and I also forgot about the 4wd linkage. Mine is cut and rewelded to fit but a novak cable shifter is probably nessisary with most tummy tucks to clear the tub.Mine it tucked up pretty nice, I have a flat belly skid pan that has a 2" drop. plus with a 1" body lift there is clearance., The exhaust stays level with the frame and the muffler is pretty much protected by the rear springs.
[img width=1200 height=675]http://www.delawareja.com/gall…nloadItem&g2_itemId=44652[/img]
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