New Power Steering Pump, Can I do this?

    I got lucky with my pitman arm, twice... (the second time don't really count 'cause it was only like 2 years after removing the stock one) My stock pitman arm popped right off with a crappy "pep-boys special" pitman arm puller, and no impact gun. (still living on the stone age, no air tools)


    You may or may not be so lucky. If it wont come off with a puller and liberal amounts of PB blaster, brute force, and swearing (yes it helps)... your going to have to cut it off. Use a grinder and a cut off wheel. Only stop the cut BEFORE you cut all the way through. Once you get it cut most of the way it should pop off with the puller, or use a cold chisel to snap it, then use the puller. Even though your getting a new steering box, you may need the old one for a core. You may not get your core charge back if you cut into the splines of the old box. I don't know, but better safe than sorry.


    As far as a steering stabilizer goes... (your going to get a bunch of recommendations, but...) the stock unit is all you should need! If the front axle assembly is in proper working order and the steering is also in proper working order, there is no need for a "beefier" stabilizer.


    Running a larger stabilizer for reducing or eliminating shimmy, bump steer, or anything else that they are commonly "upgraded" for is putting a bandaid on your elbow for a sore on your knee. It might make the problem feel better for a bit, but the problem is still there. Fix the root problem, not the side effects.

    Thanks for the advise about the core. I will check what condition they need the old one. I've been hitting it w/pb & tapping it w/a hammer in prep for the removal. :lie:


    The garage that did the diagnosis of the steering box said the stabilizer was toast, they took it off. When I took it home, I didn't even notice a difference w/o it. For the same price they were going to charge for the replacement I got the OME! :up: .


    Kevin

    Hz, if you haven't already torn it apart, think about replacing the steering shaft 1st. I just replaced mine on my 95YJ this spring because it was "sticking" around the 2 and 10 o'clock positions (it actually was sticking every 90 degree turn of the wheel). It turns out the little U-joint in the shaft by the box was frozen almost solid. I have larger tires and wheels that stuck out a lot more than stock rims. This was obviously too much for that dinky little U-joint to handle. Haven't had a problem since, it turns nice and smooth...


    Jusy my 2 cents...
    :peace:

    Yeah, If you take one clamp off (I think the steering box end was easier) the shaft should compress a little bit (I had a heck of a time compressing it) to slide the unclamped end off. Once you have an end off your should be able to move it around. Both joints should move freely in all directions. You'll be able to tell if there is a problem. The joint at my column was ok, but the one by the box was frozen and I could not move it at all in 2 of the 4 directions with my hand, hence the binding I felt at the steering wheel... Think of it as a really wimpy driveshaft...


    Hope this helps!
    :peace:

    ... if your steering shaft is in the condition that almost all YJ shafts are in that I've seen, I'd suggest replacing it anyway.


    I had to pull the steering box from the frame to get my shaft out... the shaft was seized and would not collapse, so pulling it without removing the column or steering box was not possible.

    I had another mechanic look it over. He said it wasn't too bad. It was just dirty fluid. :shrug:. I did ask him to look over/checked out the steering shaft too.


    I'm sure I'm prolonging the inevitable, but if the cost is going to be the same, I'd rather spend later :jester:


    I'll keep you posted on how it turned out :lie:



    Kevin

    Okay I want in on this discussion and I need advice, I hope everyone is still following this string.


    First off I was wondering at what lift height do you need to add a drop Pitman arm?
    I have a three inch lift on my YJ and a JKS Sliding track bar and so the drag link and track bar are almost parallel. The trackbar made a huge difference in getting rid of the bump steer I was having but it isn't perfect. I have a drop Pitman arm on hand and I wanted to try it out but the Pitman arm is truly a PITA to get off as everyone here seems to concur. Last weekend I broke the Pep Boys puller and a 5 ton Craftsman Gear Puller trying to get it off. FYI - The pep boys models have a 90 day warranty on them, they will replace it free at the store if you break it.


    Second, I have heard I should heat up the arm before pulling it but now I am hearing that will mess up my steering box seals, and I don't want to cut it because I fear the drop might be too much and want to put the stock one back on. What is the proper technique for getting it off without cutting it and breaking a bunch of pullers?


    Third, does anyone, Chris Klee, have a magic puller and impact wrench they would be willing to let me borrow this Saturday to try and pop mine off?


    Advice and help is appreciated.
    Thanks

    If you are putting the dp arm on just cut off the old arm and trash it. Grind a slot about 98% through it and wack it with a cold chisle while the puller is on it under tension and it will crack and slide off.

    My concern is that if the drop is too large for my 3" lift it may have an adverse effect on the quality of my steering, making it worse than it currently is and if I crack the arm and trash it I won't be able to reverse the damage I have already done and go back to the stock arm..

    Quote from "DCC"

    I got my stock arm off in one piece. Still have it too. :peace:


    There you go! Cut yours off, if the drop arm isn't what you want then you can enter into negotiations with Donnie for his stock arm.


    You are trying to get the drag link and the tie rod to be as close to parallel to each other as possible. You said that yours are pretty close. Measure the difference in the drop vs. stock arm and compare that to your current set up. See if the drop difference would put you closer to parallel, or if it will be too much.

    I guess I could buy another stock on if I had too, but Trial with inevitable Error is not my idea of a solution.


    Anyone got any advice on pitman arm removal tactics other than cutting it off?

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