A bit off-topic, but has anyone seen the magnetic wraps for oil filters? I saw them in 4WD's catalog, had never seen them before. Supposedly they stick to the outside of the filter, and magnetically trap more metal particles against the sides of the filter inside.
I guess the theory is sound, but wondered if anyone heard of them, or heard they're junk. Just not something I'd ever think of.
taking it offroad wont void your warranty...... but telling your insurance company you do could cause some headaches 
.........try explaining why your hood is damaged and your fenders are crushed to your insurance adjuster....."well i was on crawler ridge and it flopped over on its side....that rock came out of nowhere" oooops i mean that deer just jumped out infront of me 
fram filters are so tight that it restricks oil flow. In other words they filter so well it harms the engine. make sense. I saw the magnet wrap to. thought about it but not sure if it is worth it. Im using a K&N on the new jeep. I used to run Fram filters to but on my 97 TJ That had the 4 banger would not hold oil pressure and knocked like hell when i used them, as soon as id switch to purolator it went back to normal. I tried it several times and had the same results. I talk to a couple mechanic friends of mine down south and they have had the same complaints. There was an article somewhere about it as well.
i believe it, k&n or mopar would be my choice...
So far I have yet had a dealership win against me in an oil dispute. If you keep your reciepts you have a legitimate case in court.
Also I've had 26 cars in my life - all ran on synthetic - 17 of them broke 200,000 with zero engine breakdowns (other breakdowns yes.) The one engine breakdown occured when I switched to Amsoil.
Get Mobil 1 synthetic at walmart for $19.95 and a Mobil 1 Filter at autozone for $10. Change every 3,000 miles and your jeep, or at least the motor, will last forever.
I trust Mobil, and only Mobil, on the two most expensive motors every put into production vehicles. I do the oil changes myself because I don't trust some 5/hr idiot at Jiffy Lube to do it - and I am justified in that opinion - ask any local dealership or insurance carrier how many engines they replace from those places.
I use the Supertech ST8A.
It holds twice as much oil as the stock filter and the Supertech filters have tested near the top.
As far as magnets go, any particles large enough to cause wear should be trapped by the filter media, and a lot of the wear metals in an engine aren't magnetic anyway.
My $.02
Stupid Trivia:
The name Purolator comes from combining the words "Pure Oil Later". 
I changed my own oil 4 months ago. That's when I realized it would be CHEAPER to get it done, and you get your Saturday back.
Kevin
Quote from "hzryr61"I changed my own oil 4 months ago. That's when I realized it would be CHEAPER to get it done, and you get your Saturday back.
I don't trust Jiffy Lube type places with my own vehicles.
So, the peace of mind is worth my time. It only takes 30 minutes.
Plus it makes you get underneath and look around for wet spots or loose hardware.
Interesting notes on the Fram filters, I'll keep my out out for problems, thanks.
Keith, where do you buy the supertech filters? I don't think I've seen them.
Quote from "wanderlust"Keith, where do you buy the supertech filters? I don't think I've seen them.
Walmart.
Fram filters do bring the suck, they have as very cheap anti-drain back valve that causes oil to leak from the filter back into the pan. If you have a noisy drive train a start up and use a fram filter this is why. Happened to me way too many times on my 97 so I never ever used them again.
If you are bored read this, it is an independent average joe study on oil filters
Quote from "joo"OH, and another questions... My friend always told me to change the oil when the engine is cool....is this true? I know slimer said to warm theengine firsrt....?
Nope luke warm. Cold oil doesn't drain fully and can actually leave more acid behind then remove. On the same note you don't want to drain oil out of a hot motor because the oil is part of the cooling process - exposing heat sensive metal to cold air is never a good thing (maybe that is what you're friend is refering to.)
If you're really anal (like me) warm the motor for a couple of minutes, and let drain for a couple of hours - I managed to drain an extra 1/2 qt from my Ram in the four hours after removing the plug. Then pour a clean quart into the motor, allow flow through, replace plug, replace oil, your off...
Oh, and for those green to this process make sure you saturate the oil filter ring - I can't tell you how many cars I've seen where the person put a dry filter back on and had oil shooting everywhere.
yes lube the filter gasket it will save you a headache down the road......
The last time I changed the oil in my jeep I almost crapped my pants by making a silly mistake.
I drained my oil, replaced my filter and put the drain plug back in and realized I never took the oil cap off. I went to remove it and couldn't get it off. I don't know if I created a vacuum or just had it put on too tight but I freaked - no oil in the engine and no way to get more in. I wrestled with it to get it off, but I'm afraid of the next oil change to see if it comes off this time.
A tip I learned is to wrap a ziploc freezer bag around the filter before you remove it so that all that oil doesnt drain all over your driveway/yard/skid row engine skid.
Quote from "matty427"A tip I learned is to wrap a ziploc freezer bag around the filter before you remove it so that all that oil doesnt drain all over your driveway/yard/skid row engine skid.
You can also tap a hole with a screwdriver into the bottom of the filter to drain it before taking it off.
Quote from "Bonkers"You can also tap a hole with a screwdriver into the bottom of the filter to drain it before taking it off.
The problem is with a skidplate, it's still gonna drain onto it.
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