89 yj... needs rebuild, slight upgrades, and someone to do it. lolol my girl needs some dressing and i was wondering if anyone could recommend someone who could do the build (or possibly a swap) for me. bad oil leak, rear main seal i think... and blow by. probably looking to do a little boring and gain a few horses wherever i can while in the process. anyone interested or know someone who is, let me know. thanks a bunch and happy holidays to all.
2.5l rebuild....anyone wanna do it??!!!
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imo u might as well just swap in a 4.0l
but if u r dead set on keeping the 2.5
get with tedsbumper on the boards here
he had alot of work done by a guy named john in milford iirc -
When my origional 91 2.5 needed replaced @ 244k miles, I got in touch with Parts B!tch AKA "A.J." on the Maryland creepers board and got a 97 2.5 w/45k miles for $650.
Zero blowby, twice the power and no head aches. (can be done in a day)
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In a day!!!!!!!!!!
if my 2.5 ever goes I will just swap in another 2.5 w/ performance stuff -
kinda what i figured... if i was gonna swap, to jump to the 4.0. bbd mentioned to me something about a member here with a shop in camden by the spca...? and i saw an ad for localboysautomotive.com in laurel... said the specialize in jeeps. anyone heard anything about them?? think parts b*tch would take my old motor if i swapped? and do they do the work or just sell parts?Tony AKA Da Mutt is the one with the shop you will need to get up with him about doing a swap.
I have done the 4.0 swap and if you want to DIY Ican help you with hands on and advise but I am not in a position to do it for you. -
imo u might as well just swap in a 4.0l
but if u r dead set on keeping the 2.5
get with tedsbumper on the boards here
he had alot of work done by a guy named john in milford iirc
what is "iirc"??? -
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keep the 2.5 and gear your axles for more power that is all you need.
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think parts b*tch would take my old motor if i swapped? and do they do the work or just sell parts?If he took it, it'd be for scrap. He works for a salvage yard they just sell parts. No installation.(that I know of) Your price may vary if he has one.
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I have a 2.5l out of a 98TJ
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You can install get a fully rebuilt 2.5 longblock for under $1k, direct replacement, no headaches. Add a clutch, new water pump, you might be talinking $1200. I used a Capitol City longblock on my 89 and it was very strong crate motor. Plus you get a 3 year 30k warrentee. No shop will give you that on rebuilding yours. You can do a 4.0 but you will be replacing the trans and transfer case as well. The upside of that is that you will then be running a 4.0 with 4:10 gears.
Good Luck.
Steve
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biggest prob im having is blow by... im pretty sure thats whats causing the leaks... out the dipstick housing, valve cover grommets and distributor housing. if i could just clean up the blow by i wouldnt have a problem keeping the 2.5l
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biggest prob im having is blow by... im pretty sure thats whats causing the leaks... out the dipstick housing, valve cover grommets and distributor housing. if i could just clean up the blow by i wouldnt have a problem keeping the 2.5lAlso on the 2.5 Yj some years did not have a PCV valve. It uses a small tube on the drivers side of the rocker cover near the front of the motor. Make sure this is clear.
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well is your pvc valve good.... what about the vacum line running to it
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pcv is brand new, and the line is clear enough to shove oil into my air filter box...
monty mentioned doing a compression test. what do you think? maybe damutt 4x4 can check her for a small fee?? 
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compression test is real easy if oyu have the tools. you need a good battery, a spark plug socket and one of these
http://www.autozone.com/servle…7C%7EB%7C%7EACM%7C%7Etrueit should be on the loan a tool program at autozone.
unscrew the spark plugs on all 4 cylinders marking the location of the plug wires. then scew the compression tester in and crank the engine over several times while watching the tester ( a buddy helps here) record the highest reading and move to the next cylinder once done report back here with the readings....
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also the motor should be warmed up, and at WOT.
readings should be within 15% (at least thats a general rule of thumb with outboards).
also compare readings with factory spec.a cylinder leakdown test is better, but requires different tools, and is a bit trickier that a compression test.
stick with that one. at least for now.i would do both of those test before ordering a new crate motor.
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