36x12.50 R16 will they fit on 4>5 re sf with 1 inch body and 1 inch mml

i have 4.5 springs, 1" body, and 37" tires - plenty of clearance for me. you will probably be needing 1.25" spacers behind the moab wheels to have them clearing everything though. the axle question - longevity will probably have you upgrading the shafts at a minimum...but for daily driving with an occasion romp through a mud puddle you should be okay with the stock shafts for the meantime.
chris

p.s. utilizing the lockers regularly when offroad will quickly shorten the lifespan of the stock axle shafts. just my two cents...

You have d44 front and rear. shouldnt need to upgrade either unless you go insane with wheeling.

like chris said ...
go easy on the skinny pedal and the lockers usage
u should be fine for awhile
keep in mind tho that the additional mass u add to the rolling assembly
will ensure that the axles wont last forever

everything i read say the fronts will go first
esp if u use the lockers often
so consider upgraded axles there first then the rear

btw
with the lift and b/l
as long as the bumpstops are properly set
u shouldnt have any issues with clearance

if you decide to do new axles let me know as i will buy yours.

for 36's, if you wheel, you will need at least upgraded front axle shafts.... The rubi stock shafts have a nasty habit of stretching the yoke ears...even with the stock 31's...

Quote from Diablo

You have d44 front and rear. shouldnt need to upgrade either unless you go insane with wheeling.

The "Rubi 44" in the front uses Dana 30 outers. That'll be the weak link.

Wow, haha. I learned something new. So then upgrade those and you should be fine...

Can you truss a 44 and upgrade parts, or would that not even be needed?

Quote from Keith_C

The "Rubi 44" in the front uses Dana 30 outers. That'll be the weak link.

I had heard over on ROF, because this was a concern of mine, that the D30 actually uses D44 outers and has for several years now, hence the comparison. But, I have not done the research myself so I don't know for sure who is correct other than based on what I have seen posted. Does anyone have info from Dana on the reality of this?

Northridge is running a great deal on Alloy USA front axles for the Rubi D44's right now. Also has a package including gears...

The rubi 44 uses dana 30 ball joints, dana 30 inner c's, dana 30 knuckles, dana 30 outer shafts and dana 30 unit bearings... Hence why it is not all the rage to swap a front rubi 44 into a TJ for the dana 30 as you essentially do not gain anything other than a small amount of ring gear strength by doing so.

The only thing a dana 30 should have in common with a REAL dana 44 is the u-joint. REAL dana 44's use bigger ball joints, and have knuckles capable of being drilled for hi-steering arms....

Quote from turtle

The rubi 44 uses dana 30 ball joints, dana 30 inner c's, dana 30 knuckles, dana 30 outer shafts and dana 30 unit bearings... Hence why it is not all the rage to swap a front rubi 44 into a TJ for the dana 30 as you essentially do not gain anything other than a small amount of ring gear strength by doing so.

The only thing a dana 30 should have in common with a REAL dana 44 is the u-joint. REAL dana 44's use bigger ball joints, and have knuckles capable of being drilled for hi-steering arms....

Good info, thanks for the clarification as this comes up over and over on various forums and nobody seems to have any real specifics.