did you replace the rotor in the distributor?
Yes, but without a spark at the coil (which leads to the rotor) I have no
idea if they work or not.
did you replace the rotor in the distributor?
Yes, but without a spark at the coil (which leads to the rotor) I have no
idea if they work or not.
ohh ..i forgot about the coil.. yeah, nevermind ... lol ,i saw that pic of the distributor and had a brain fart
try to temp. straight wire the coil to the battery??? that would feed juice and tell u if the coil is bad or a problem in the wiring to the coil. i have a coil i took off of mine, but it was mounted on the firewall not the block. (throttle body v.s f/i i guess)
i have a coil u could borrow
I had the exact problem you are having. Try running a ground wire directly from the battery to the point where all the wiring grounds hook up (should be on the passenger side of the block and there should be 3 ground wires total). If that doesn't do it, the CPS is the only thing that stops spark that I can think of. If the computer isn't reading the pulse from the CPS it will not, and can not, send the pulse to the distributor pick up.
At least that is my understanding of how the system works.
You might also try swapping in new relays, or testing the ones you have.
I had the exact problem you are having. Try running a ground wire directly from the battery to the point where all the wiring grounds hook up (should be on the passenger side of the block and there should be 3 ground wires total). If that doesn't do it, the CPS is the only thing that stops spark that I can think of. If the computer isn't reading the pulse from the CPS it will not, and can not, send the pulse to the distributor pick up.
At least that is my understanding of how the system works.
You might also try swapping in new relays, or testing the ones you have.
told you ground.....
... my point was simple... if the block isnt grounded, the starter wouldn't turn over. so u tell me
the coil can still not be grounded... its only bolted to the block like the starter... if their is crap on the block or its not tight the ground is not there for the coil.... like the starter is grounded to block... if your starter is coverd in sh*t like mine once was it wont ground and not turn over... so thats what i think
ps. have u tried hitting it w a large hammer
sometimes that works
X2 on the coil being grounded, had a truck i was helping someone with and they knew the coil was bad but they changed it and the truck still wouldn't start, and turnsout the new coil wasn't grounded good, so I'd check first. Next with the key on, you might need someone to turn key on for because alot ECMs will turn off fuel pumps and ignitions after like 3-5 seconds if the engine isn't cranking or running. Check for voltage at the coil terminal, and if you got that hook the testlight up to positive on the battery and test the other terminal for ground, might need to be cranking for it to work, and if your ECM is working properly and there is nothing wrong with any of your wiring or connections one of the two, most likely ground will pulsate and test light should blink, and if all this checksout, take off your distributor cap and see if the rotors turning. Also you said you could smell gas, if the engine is getting fuel and/or floodingout when you are trying to start it that means that ECM is getting some sort of signal from the crank sensor.
from the look of that rusted pulley and belt it hasent been ran in a long time....
and if your ECM is working properly and there is nothing wrong with any of
your wiring or connections one of the two, most likely ground will pulsate
and test light should blink,
I had a friend bring over his test light this eveing and we messed around
for hours checking connections. There is a steady current reaching the coil
on one (yellow wire) side of the plug and steady ground coming out of the
other (green wire side.) When you turn the ignition neither side blinks or
pulsates significantly. We still do not have any spark out of the coil. We
tried hooking up both the old and new coil with no change.
Other than fixing one of the turn signals we're no closer to getting her running.
You will not get a pulse until the CPS sends a signal. Did you test the CPS?
where do u live... ill bring by my coil...
I really don't think it's a coil but the easiest things are always worth a try.
That is sounding more a like a bad distributor. Have you tried swapping out a entire dis. assembly?
QuoteYou will not get a pulse until the CPS sends a signal. Did you test the CPS?
Not with your step-down test yet, my voltmeter accidently got run over
a few years back. We did put the old CPS back on with no change - I
guess it is possible both CPSs are bad.
Quotewhere do u live... ill bring by my coil...
Between Georgetown and Millsboro - if you are serious about making
the trip drop me a line on me cell 302.841.2177 - I will be working on
her till midnight...ish.
QuoteThat is sounding more a like a bad distributor. Have you tried
swapping out a entire dis. assembly?
Money is limiting my choices of parts and I don't know anyone with a
91-92 Yj locally to swap. I'm not sure of the Distributor though - if the
coil and CPS are working then I should still, at least, get a spark to
the cap but not the wires.
I'm still wondering if this is an ECM issue - if the CPS works but not
sending a signal and the coil works but not sending a spark - and I have
no check engine light - maybe the brain has been fried. Either way I
might be starting a job in Denton here in the next week so she has to be road
legal and reliable by that point. If I don't have her fixed by Monday I may
just have to swallow my pride and take her to a shop.
ill be around sun... ill call coming home tomm from NC
Sounds good - looks like two others may be stopping in Sun afternoon
so it may end up being a party.
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