As I understand it, those lockers don't engage unless you're driving power through them. Hence, if you're not in 4WD, a front locker won't ever engage. Kind of like even if you have one in the rear, you would want to let off the gas before making turns.
Having a locker in the front shouldn't decrease your beach and on road driving.
I would rather put a full locker up front so when I didn't need it I was running open. I would not want a limited slip up front to "surprise" me on the highway...
There won't be any surprises unless he's in 4WD.
In 2WD the front is just spinning free.
HUH? if i put a full locker in the front then it will always be locked even in 2WD. the limited slip will remain open till i put it in 4wd. also the limited slip is FREE that is why i am keeping it for now.
Well, in that sense I guess that's true.
I was really thinking more along the lines of an ARB or such when you said full locker.
The lockright type also do nothing except when in 4WD and when power is applied.
I was thinking the same thing. To me a full locker would be a true locker that you could shut off, such as an ARB or ECHTED or OX. I really like my ECHTED up front. I very rarely have HAD to lock my front locker since when it's off it's a limited slip. I never know it's there either when I'm in 4 wheel drive. Feels like an open carrier but when it needs it it's a limited slip, then if I want I can fully lock it. I got mine for $539 each and love them.
HUH? if i put a full locker in the front then it will always be locked even in 2WD. the limited slip will remain open till i put it in 4wd. also the limited slip is FREE that is why i am keeping it for now.
As Keith said a 'full' locker like a detroit, lock-rite, aussie, etc will function like a normal, open diff if no power is applied. In 2wd they are transparent, just like a LSD. You can't argue with free, though.
--Ian
just more money and another gear set up later. really it sounds like you will end up being built ok in the end. its hard to keep 1 tons legal unless you narrow them and you dont want to pay for that enjoy your build and wheel the hell out of it. would probably just run those 35 bfg mts thought they are light and my buddy in his toyota goes everywhere with his.
You can't argue with free, though.
He's paying $400 for the axle to go to HP, so whether the LSD is "free" is debatable.
To most of us... Full locker = Detroit locks only when torque is applied (or selectable, OX, ARB, ECTED). Cheap locker = EZ-Locker, Lock-rite, Aussie same as Detroit, but only replaces spider gears so much weaker. Limited slip = Trutrac mostly locked under torque, but will slip under extreme torque. and then there is a Spool (or welded spider gears) which is a completely different animal and isn't a "locker" since it cannot unlock. Anything except a spool would be fine in a front axle for 2WD use.
cause i am trying to bring this all together on a very very minimal budget.
If this build doesn't cost $4500.00 in the end I would be surprised... so you are not doing anything for "minimal" when you talk about that kind of work
Who are you going to pay to do all your fab work. It's alot more work then just cutting the fenders. Ask Ed (2000Sahara) or Alan (Dustpuppy) how long it takes to do this. Plus your always worried about money now. What happens when your all cut up and run out of money to finish. Or the Grand cherokee takes a shit and you have to fix that first.
Just food for thought 
I have one thing to say and please dont take this the wrong way.
"the more you learn the less you know"
dont be afraid to call/email/post questions but please take the time to research so you know what your talking about before asking. you are getting ready to get very very in depth and I am afraid you dont even know. if you do I am sorry but welcome to the madness
dont cut and section the control arms they will be weaker than 1 peice tubes and will cost just as much. I would use square tube with bushings at the axle end end and jj at the frame end. the bushings wont wear due to dirt and will save you lots of money on jj's. you can use 1.5 hrew with .125 wall with stock yj spring bushings (the ones that go thru the frame I wold use poly bushings) they will allow you more than enough flex to get the axle to work for half the price of doing the jjs on both ends.
buy the best welder that you can and dont skimp on the prep work it is the most important thing that you can do use flux core it burns a litttle hotter and will bring some of the impurites from the weld to the top for those areas that you dont prep the way you should.
take your budget and double it. take the time its going to take you and double it or wait till mopartech has the space and pay him I prefer the do it yourself option in the end. Dont skimp on what you want or what you know is right it will bite you in the ass and you will end up redoing it the right way and it will cost you twice as much in the end.
Tony just summed up exactly what i was going to say basically. I planned on a total of 1500 to get my 8.8, 4.5 springs and 36s on. In the end i was about 3k into it. It all seems perfect on paper and in your head, but too many little things come up.
I would look at Turtle's figures and go with that. You are getting into a very expensive part of everything. Look into the Clayton kits for long arm. You can get them alot cheaper then you think. I would say around the 750-800 price range brand new. I did from one of their dealers.
The max you can stretch is 3" for Modified Stcok according to the rule book. Comp cutting adds more illegal issues with some of the DMV guys aalready asking for mud flaps and such. Where you are taking this is taking it off the road pretty quick.
I am by all means behind ya, I went the same route. I in return am not satisfied with not being able to drive my jeep all of the time and so on. Also even a used trailer to tow your jeep will run you a grand or so. Just something to think about.
Other then that good luck, feel free to ask, I should be able to help. If not others can.
This is not me being a dick but is real world advice from someone who has done what you are going to do..... buy a kit.... I will never ever ever build control arms or suspensions again.... It will only cost you an incredible amount of time and I dont' care how much you read on Pirate your first and unless you open a shop your last one takes an incredible amount of time... clayton's upgrade is $1400.00 and is worth every penny nickel and dime you spend on it... splicing control arms is also not a good idea.... again I know pirate has all those treads with these ideas but in the real world....... As far as comp cutting goes remember you also need to tie the cage into the frame which is more work and $$$
if you plan on building all this stuff from scratch plan on about $5500.00 for the build as you are going to be in $2k in tools just to get started....
I think it's cool.
are you still planning on competing? I would think not as 36" tires would put you in the unlimited class with the buggies.
If not knock your self out, but always remember, you will be running on the edge of what that setup can hold, even if you do alloy or superior shafts up front. when you need to use the skinny pedal, make damn sure your wheels are pointed dead straight ahead. Also, do not be afraid of the strap or the winch line. A small hit to your ego is better than a huge hit to the wallet.
37" mt/rs on the hp 30 going on 2 years now. never broke a shaft, never snapped a ujoint
I can second that. Running 36s on a regular D30 and snapped a shaft about 2 hours into the first ride. Wheels at like 20 degrees and about 25% gas while climding a rock and bam shaft blew apart. Have alloys now and have done all of the same trails just a little more careful and have not had any issues...
Chris if you are interested, I have a lead on some rockwells for a decent price.
Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!
