wheeled it! cut a sidewall. took some body damage to the rear quarter-panel, hatch, and taillight.
jeeze altierior! every time I log on its another story of how you broke something! I would start saving for a Tank.
not to get off topic...
wheeled it! cut a sidewall. took some body damage to the rear quarter-panel, hatch, and taillight.
jeeze altierior! every time I log on its another story of how you broke something! I would start saving for a Tank.
not to get off topic...
i sold mine.
TJ or XJ ?
jeeze altierior! every time I log on its another story of how you broke something! I would start saving for a Tank.
not to get off topic...
LOL
bought it a new tire
trated a buddy parts i got for free and couldn't even use on my jeep for his Factory Cruise Control,
Only kidding, I didn't sell the jeep. I need new tires BAD though.
finished putting in the 8.8
oh and put in a hand throttle
finished putting in the 8.8
oh and put in a hand throttle
ahhh it's so nice..after i get a SYE and get ready for a SOA ill get one
Bought something for Slimer today......a set of Wagoneer Dana 44s!
Don't have time to wheel so I figured I'd spend the time I don't have modifying a little. I'm not sure when I'll get to it but I got them in home so that's the first step.
Now I have to figure out which scenario to go with:
1. Retube the rear Dana 44 to off center the diff:
Pros:
I'd only have to buy 1 set of 4.88 gears (for the front)
I can keep my Dana 18 t-case and over drive
Being able to KEEP the over drive enabling me to run lower gears on the street
Cons:
I'd have to get custom axle shafts made and I'd probably convert it to full floating rear like I have now
2. Keep the rear centered:
Pros:
I'd probably only have to get the flanges on the rear axles redrilled for 5 on 5½ bolt pattern
Going to the Dana 20 T-case would make front wheel only drive possible for front dig situations (when twin sticked)
Cons:
Going to the Dana 20 t-case would mean I'd lose the over drive
Losing the over drive means I'd have to buy TWO sets of gears to regear them to somethng more street freindly like 4.10 or 4.27.
rear drive shaft angle would get steap which is always a problem with CJ5s
I'd probably have to get a custom drive shaft made up with a CV joint because of the steeper angle or raise the motor up an inch (to tilt the trans back a little) and shim the rear up (to make the u-joint angles match.
I'd lose the full floating rear or could just spend the coin to put it in anyway
Crap, it will take me 6 months to figure out what I want to do!!!
rear drive shaft angle would get steap which is always a problem with CJ5s
I'd probably have to get a custom drive shaft made up with a CV joint because of the steeper angle or raise the motor up an inch (to tilt the trans back a little) and shim the rear up (to make the u-joint angles match.
I'd lose the full floating rear or could just spend the coin to put it in anyway
Crap, it will take me 6 months to figure out what I want to do!!!
You could always stretch the rear with XJ springs in the midst of an axle swap
Finally put my D30 w/ 4.10's in after putting it off for 6 months ...I figured I MIGHT need 4x4 IF it ever snows more than an inch this year
Bought something for Slimer today......a set of Wagoneer Dana 44s!
Crap, it will take me 6 months to figure out what I want to do!!!
Sounds like a whole lot of work for little gain.... by the time you retube the axle (why get rid of the overdrive), buy custom shafts, full float conversion etc. you could buy a custom axle.. i know it is about doing the work but there is a point of negative return... have you actually broken anything to necessitate "upgrading"
have you actually broken anything to necessitate "upgrading"
No. I'm just playing. Wider axles will make it more stable at angles and keep me from crushing my front shocks in when I turn the wheels to full lock.
I had the good fortune to replace the double cardan U-Joints and centering ball assembly. This is not a beginner's project and probably worth the cost to have it done. All is back together at this time 6 hours later.
WHEELED IT!
[li]punctured another tire sidewall[/li]
[li]snapped the end off of a rear shock[/li]
[li]twisted the rear axle housing so badly that the diff pinion now points at the bottom of my jeep![/li]
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WHEELED IT!
[li]punctured another tire sidewall[/li]
[li]snapped the end off of a rear shock[/li]
[li]twisted the rear axle housing so badly that the diff pinion now points at the bottom of my jeep![/li]
Time to get a new spotter.
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WHEELED IT!
[li]punctured another tire sidewall[/li]
[li]snapped the end off of a rear shock[/li]
[li]twisted the rear axle housing so badly that the diff pinion now points at the bottom of my jeep![/li]
time for an 8.8
im jealous you got to wheel it though, i need to get up to RC bad!
bought it some stuff:
rear axle seals
u-joints
rear shocks
control-arm bushings
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bought it some stuff:
rear axle seals
u-joints
rear shocks
control-arm bushings
installed new rear shocks
installed new driveshaft u-joints front and rear
installed new rear axle seals
installed new bushings on lower control arm
repainted my rear diff cover (since it was off anyway)
installed new rear shocks
although i don't know why. i removed the damaged ones on monday, and have been driving the heep since then with no discernible difference.
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