Front drive shaft removal

  • I'm hoping to deal with the "angry sparrows" that have recently nested in my front drive shaft. On a 98 TJ, is it necessary to remove the skid plate first in order to remove the front drive shaft? Seems like it is just from my initial look, but I thought maybe there's a trick to disconnecting the transfer case end of the shaft so that messing with the skid plate isn't necessary. Could I be so lucky?! Am not getting my hopes up! Also, do the angry sparrows usually live only in the front U-joint? Or could I need to replace/rebuild the rear (double carden?) U-joints also?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • The Angry sparrows are usually caused by the Double Cardan/ CV joint, so yes you will likely have to rebuild it or at least attempt to grease it.
    The Front DS can be removed without taking down the skid. Cant remember how high your jeep is, but get it up as high as you can and reach your arm over the skid from the front. If you have a small body lift you may be able to get your arm in between the body and the frame( I can on mine). It helps to remove it from the front axle first so you can move it around to get to the bolts. You will also likely have to put the tcase in nuetral to spin the driveshaft, so you can get to the bolts. Finally an 8mm racheting wrench is your friend....

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
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  • The Angry sparrows are usually caused by the Double Cardan/ CV joint, so yes you will likely have to rebuild it or at least attempt to grease it.
    The Front DS can be removed without taking down the skid. Cant remember how high your jeep is, but get it up as high as you can and reach your arm over the skid from the front. If you have a small body lift you may be able to get your arm in between the body and the frame( I can on mine). It helps to remove it from the front axle first so you can move it around to get to the bolts. You will also likely have to put the tcase in nuetral to spin the driveshaft, so you can get to the bolts. Finally an 8mm racheting wrench is your friend....



    X2 Be patient, you can get it without dropping the skid. I have done it several times... :innocent:

  • don't have round headlights, so I can't offer any advice, but man... those angry sparrows really are annoying. lol I got them around 4 years ago. Bought the harbor freight tool and changed a ujoint (well, 3) for the first time. :)

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

  • Thanks for all the good posts. I will assume that the double cardan joint is simple two standard u-joints in tandem. I don't recall tackling one of those before, so please let me know if there is anything tricky about them. Will also visit the Stu Olson website to see if he has a write-up on this. Jim

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • Look for the centering ball kit as well. You will need 3 hands to put it all together, or some luck and a lot of cursing... Lol



    And let me just say that I told you it was just angry sparrows in the front ds. :innocent: I am glad that was all it was (apparently).


  • And absolutely, if you take the time to pull the ds, replace all the u-joints with greasable ones.


    That's another debatable subject.


    I used sealed u-joints when I rebuilt my rear double-cardan.


    Unless you are running through mud or water constantly, not sure they are worth the nuisance of having to grease them.


  • Look for the centering ball kit as well. You will need 3 hands to put it all together, or some luck and a lot of cursing... Lol


    rockauto.com has all the parts for a great price.


    And maybe I am just blessed, but mine went back together with just my 2 hands and no cursing whatsoever.

  • Thanks again. If I can get the front DS off, I was thinking of taking it to NAPA in Dover, where they have a good little machine shop in the back. It's $15 per u-joint for the work, but they'll press out the old ones and press in the new ones. I'll cost some money, but they know what they're doing.

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • The right tools will make that job a hell of a lot less painless. In all honesty, Chief, probably worth your money. It took me forever ... I was using a vice bolted to a small work bench on wheels ... but they are despicable nonetheless :mrgreen:


  • The right tools will make that job a hell of a lot less painless. In all honesty, Chief, probably worth your money. It took me forever ... I was using a vice bolted to a small work bench on wheels ... but they are despicable nonetheless :mrgreen:


    To tell the truth, I actually own the much-praised Harbor Freight u-joint tool, but the one experience I had with it was negative. I'm not rich, but saving my time and aggravation is worth something. Plus, I'm guessing the machine shop guys will have experience dealing with the ball centering piece that is sandwiched in the double cardan. At least that's my hope.

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police


  • To tell the truth, I actually own the much-praised Harbor Freight u-joint tool, but the one experience I had with it was negative. I'm not rich, but saving my time and aggravation is worth something. Plus, I'm guessing the machine shop guys will have experience dealing with the ball centering piece that is sandwiched in the double cardan. At least that's my hope.


    What was the negative experience?


    I've always had good luck with it.

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