how do i fix body cancer?

  • Cut it out and weld in new panels is the best way. Or, if it's a CJ7, replace the tub with a rust free Wrangler tub (which is probably the easiest way to go).

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Don't use bondo as a filler it absorbs water. There used to a product called aluma lead. It's a 2 part mix check Eastwood.com they would probably have it or something similar. If you don't want to weld or have money for it 3m makes a body panel adhesive. Main thing is get a wire wheel on your drill and get the heavy loose stuff off. Wipe with acetone or rubbing alcohol than spray with a epoxy paint, or a rust product like por 15, or over the counter stuff at the parts store. It really depends on how heavy the rust is and how smooth of a finish and money you want to invest.

  • You can also pop rivet panels on, recess the rivet and fill over them. It will work fine. The trick to using body fillers is that you don't want too thick of a coating. I think less than 1/8". Tigerhair can go thicker bkut you should still keep the thickness down to a minimum.


    If you want to do it once and be done with it you want to invest more into rust prevention going forward. POR is great stuff but can be difficult to work with. READ AND ADHERE TO ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS. I've had good luck with Extends too. I haven't seen it in the store lately but I think Permatex makes it now (called something else).


    Of course you can always cover it up with body armor and paint the armor plates to match your Jeep body.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • I will probibly go with keeping the tub and clearing the rust out like you where saying. Its cheaper and well i prefer the cj tub over the yj. but i got a jeep wreckin yard here localy i might be abble to find a new tub at if i i have to.
    what would thickness of metal would i want to use to cover it after i clean it up and prep it?

    the jeep is a 77 cj7 stock 304 v8 with th400 transmission. the dude i picked it up from had it siting in his driveway with no top on for 9 years. i just couldent let it sit there like that.
    this is what i found after i un screwed his carpeting and took it all out.
    http://photobucket.com/CrewsCJ7 easyer to just share the album link then doing them individualy lol.


    on top of that i gota get signals working along with horn and brakes.
    rebuilt carb. new fuel and brake lines but the brake booster is bad. witch aperintly power brakes and power steering along with ac is not normal in a 70's jeep

  • nice that will make things alot easyer after i clear the cancer out.

    Best thing is quadratec has all thows pieces already :D

    now i just gota find a 77 power brake booster or something that can work in its place lol .

  • It will always return, its insidious. Just cut, patch and repeat.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • Take the roll bar out because you'll find it rusted out under that too. Buy repair panels and weld them in as was said.


    Once you start digging you'll probably find rust under the paint along the wheel wells and rocker panels. All CJs rust out there.


    Check you frame too. Specifically over and behind the rear axle, on the inside of the frame. The frames are a clam shell design to make the box tubing. The outter wall is 3/16" steel. The inner wall is 1/8". the inner wall always rusts first. You can get nice repair panels for those too. I put them on mine.

    Blinker issue is probably a ground problem or you need to clean up your housings.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Ok I said it before now I will explain. If the frame is good and you want to proceed with the body ok. By the time you buy and weld in the patch panels you will be close to or over $1200.00 in cost. The rust will only come back and you can do it all over again in about 3 yrs. Or you can spend about $2400.00 and by a decent fiberglass body and do it once and be done. Like Wayne said there isn't much to save on that tub. I would also look to get a newer style rollbar the one that you have is not going to help you much in a rollover. Also check your body mounts as well as the other areas that were mentioned for rust on the frame. I know it seems cheaper to fix what you have I thought the same thing and did what you are planing on doing, I did mine and with in 2 yrs the rust was back in the bed and rear fender area as well as the frame. Good luck and if I can be of any help let me know.

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    Take your time, prep it properly, use a good rust penetrative primer, be careful not to get into it with your prep work, it should last a long time.



    That was less than $200 in metal, maybe $200 in paint and prep, which I was going to do anyways.



    Fiberglass is an OK option, but brings up a whole host of other problems, namely electrical grounds and it does not play well with repeated off road abuse, and it is a lot of holes to drill :)



    Besides, I hate fiberglass repair, but metal repair is usually handled by a hammer on my trucks :rollsmile:

  • Gavan you bring up some good points. I did the floor pans in my CJ as well, in fact they were the only things that didn't rerust. Yes changing to a glass body is not for those without skill. Just ask Slimer he is just about done his glass body. But if he plans on keeping the Jeep (forever) then its the way to go. Yes they can have problems on the trail, I have hit mine pretty hard (hard doors poped open) with no issues but I also have a custom built body so it really dosen't count.
    In the end it really comes down to what he can afford and is comfortable doing. I wish him good luck either way and will give him advise either way.

  • You can get years out of a body with cut and patch. Its the way of the Jeep

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • I will go with http://www.classicent.com/jeep.php#7695 , love the pictures. It gives me more to think about. I have the jk thats enough non metal for me lol. Its guna be slow going beeing stuck in cali and no steady work makes it prety bad. But will be done by summer, on the other side im probibly guna see about finding yj seats/cage so i got more then lap belts and mid back seats ...
    A forum mentioned i can use a 95 yj 4.0 brake booster and cylinder, something about dual diaphram vrs single altho im only guna have 33's on this. It has stock dana 30 rear 20 front. the quadradrive (no hubs) is wierd tho has the 4x4 switch in glove box.
    got alot goin threw my head about this project lol so i atend to ramble ^^

    Once i get started tho will have pictures and build like last 2 i did.

  • i got the roll cage off and the seat belts out. started cutting the rusted spots out. got lucky the fenders arent that bad off but i want to add a brace to the frame for the roll cage. i got the steel for the cage but what thickness do i get for the plate that i make the fender top out of?
    im still learning this all as i go. this is my first real project in 20 years lol. building the jk and the yj had little to nothing on body fab other then the fenders we made on the yj.

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