A CV style shaft that uses a slip yoke elimator works in that fashion with a splined section that allows it to telescope. You typically only need to provide the drive shaft manufacturer the distance yoke to yoke. A drive shaft that uses a slip yoke (stock jeep t-case, unless its a rubi case) is a fixed length but moves in and out of the splined shaft on the back of the t-case. You would usually provide the drive shaft manufacturer the distance from the end of the tail shaft to the center of the yoke on the diff. They will build accordingly.
When specing out a new drive shaft you want the vehicle sitting on level ground at ride height. Adjust the pinion correctly and then take your measurement.
JKU X 4wd conversion
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When you say adjust the pinion correctly do you mean the angle of attack againts the tcase or when the pinion shiming is done?Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Unless you have one of the ultra-rare JKU's with leaf springs, you will need adjustable control arms to adjust the pinion angle, not shims.
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Ah ok yeah makes sense... so why is it so necessary to have it perfect there if you have CV joints?Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
CV allows greater angles, still have to all be in phase.
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You want pretty much all of the DV angle to be used up on the side with the CV or Double-Cardan joint. The pinion (on your D30hp) will be inline of the DS.
-Brad
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You want pretty much all of the DV angle to be used up on the side with the CV or Double-Cardan joint. The pinion (on your D30hp) will be inline of the DS.Pretty sure we are talking about his rear axle diff.
Can't say I've seen a D30 with slip yoke or SYE.
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Pretty sure we are talking about his rear axle diff.
Can't say I've seen a D30 with slip yoke or SYE.
He showed the front yoke and this page was about a front axle swap....
I just gave an example, but thanks for playing Keith...
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are you lifting it? could probably ask any of those manufacturers for a stock length for a jku and they would know what it is.
EDIT: So I read through your thread and saw you did lift it, but not by how much. I bet you could still get away with stock length shafts if it's 2 inches or under. They probably have drive shaft lengths on the shelf for each popular lift height.
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He showed the front yoke and this page was about a front axle swap....
I just gave an example, but thanks for playing Keith...
The page is actually about a 2x4 jeep conversion into a 4x4, swapping it requires a front axle, driveshafts and tcase component chages... so all in all its like doing a front axle swap and regear, a case and driveshaft upgrade and a rear axle regear. So after the lift, and the shaft length change from the 2x4 to the 4x4(because what it has right now is a driveshaft attached to the tranny with an adapter to mount it to it) I have a completely unknow dimension and angle that I have to know or adjust before ordering this shaft.
This is a picture of the 2x4 setup
[img width=1200 height=675]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/13/qabu5e6a.jpg[/img]If you look at the JKU setup it should have the tcase just after the crossmemeber with a skid plate. Which in mine it ends at the cross member. So my driveshaft is longer than the 4x4 hence my issue with knowing the right length. Im also completely oblivious as to what length the front should be... lol
Now I'm sure I'm just over complicating it and I can order any of those driveshafts that are rated for my lift. But I kinda want to absorb as much knowledge as I can before I go spending moolah!
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I know that shops in the business have them laying around meant for certain lift heights, I've ordered like that before. Give tatton a call or coast (where I ordered from who had em pre-made for my lifted tj) and ask them for a price check. I bet it'd be hard to find someone selling their driveshafts from a lifted jk (hope someone goes to 1 tons soon).
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And JKU's never had slip yoke either..
Just curious how well the stock rear DS on JK's holds up? The "yoke" portion near the CV is so tiny
-Brad
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Still have the. $300 gift cert for a new drive shaft. Pm if interested.
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The cv's on jk's are actually Guebo (sp?) joints. They dont tolerate high angles. Although u can get away with a stock shaft it will fail. U may just have to bite the bullet and get aftermarket shafts that are designed for the size lift u have. Also if your lift came with new lower control arms u may not need adjustables. Some manufactures design in the increased pinion angle with there fixed arms. Best bet is to go by the recommendation of the lift company.
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I talked to coast and ordered some 1310s from them so they should be here by next Friday. So... Astape... ill just be waiting on you after that
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