Seems like something so small shouldn't be able to make a big difference... guess we'll see....
Kuntryboy's surprise YJ rebuild!!
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Just stuff rags in the holes.
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Finally got it all apart. I had to cut off one of the upper exhaust nuts...Impact was no Bueno and the torch and breaker bar successfully rounded it off. I believe I still have enough of the stud to use if I use a couple flat washers instead of the cone shaped jobby that was on there. I'll clean up the end of it and the threads to see how it worx out. Anyone want to give me a hand??
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Use a die to fix the threads, use the double nut method. Also heat the crap out of it.
External Content www.youtube.comContent embedded from external sources will not be displayed without your consent.Through the activation of external content, you agree that personal data may be transferred to third party platforms. We have provided more information on this in our privacy policy.You can also try a stud extractor.... They work pretty good , especially if the treads are already boogered up.
Then there is welding a big nut on and impact wrench
Dont use a breaker bar, if you snap that sucker off too low, it will need to be drilled and tapped.
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Maybe a stupid question but why did you pull the intake and exhaust manifolds? I'm almost 100% percent sure no coolant flows though the intake manifold!
Are you sure the t/stat is seated in the head or you didn't crack the t/stat housing? -
Maybe a stupid question but why did you pull the intake and exhaust manifolds? I'm almost 100% percent sure no coolant flows though the intake manifold! Are you sure the t/stat is seated in the head or you didn't crack the t/stat housing?Pretty sure it does, a hose runs from the t-stat housing to the intake. then out the other end. Think its to heat the manifold to the fuel evaps faster. Coolant temp sensor is there too.
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my yj's did that
think it was vaibration issue
I had the cash so I replaced the rad. -
Anyone know what this jobby is attached to the bottom of the intake? ...has a wire coming out of the side of it for some sensor I presume. The one on mine was rotted out.
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Thats the egr valve. Dont remember what the wire is from but if u have done a nutter bypass it does nothing now.
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I thought this was the EGR valve... and yeah its Nuttered so no use to me.
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Yeh sorry u mean the plate with the 3 bolts. i think thats just a block off plate. The wire is probably just the po's version of a good way to ground the sensor. Pull the wire and put it to a good ground. Clean the plate and use some gasket paper to reseal it if u have to.
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Pretty sure it does, a hose runs from the t-stat housing to the intake. then out the other end. Think its to heat the manifold to the fuel evaps faster. Coolant temp sensor is there too.
Well I guess the jokes on me!
It's been too many years since i've messed with a 258, 4.0L's don't have coolant flowing through The intake manifold. 
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[size=1em]Here is why they heat the intake... found on the web...
"As liquid fuel enters the manifold from the carburetor, the vacuum vaporizes the fuel and causes a chilling effect on the walls of the manifold much like the chilling effect of spraying an aerosol on your skin. Now you have a cold manifold. If you do not supply a continuous supply of heat the manifold will remain cold and even build frost in some conditions. At this point, if acceleration is attempted, the vacuum will drop, fuel will no longer vaporize, and will condense on the cold manifold walls until they are fully saturated with wet fuel – this takes time , during which time less fuel is going into the engine ( and thus no power or a "sag") After the walls are fully saturated with fuel the air flow finally picks up and floods some of the cylinders but not all of them because liquid fuel is notoriously bad for equal distribution.
The solution: Moderate, and continuous heat supply to keep the walls of the inlet manifold warm and fuel in vapor form. Exhaust heat is fast but requires a butterfly valve in one manifold to force the exhaust flow. Water heat is slower but very clean and not corrosive to aluminum manifolds. This method utilizes the water pump to continuously supply warm water to a passage underneath the manifold ."[/size]
Mulit point injected don't need this because there is no fuel in the intake runners. And generally injected at the ports are where it is already hot closer to the block and are not firing continuously, but in timmed bursts. A TBI may have a heat source.
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Yeh sorry u mean the plate with the 3 bolts. i think thats just a block off plate. The wire is probably just the po's version of a good way to ground the sensor. Pull the wire and put it to a good ground. Clean the plate and use some gasket paper to reseal it if u have to.
Both the intakes have it and the wire connection is the same. I'll rewrap the wire and use the same connection. the plate on mine was rotted out but Steve's was in good shape.Also the intake Steve gave me does not have a spot for the Temp Sensor #3 (above the CTO)... will that have any adverse affect on the YJ? Remember my YJ is Nuttered so the computer doesn't control/monitor anything in the Jeep anymore.
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Anyone ever have to use their tap-n-die set to back out and then install a stud before? Rofl
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Dont think u need that sensor. Your gauge should work off the sensor in the back of the head. Thats the only thing left that needs to see the coolant temp.
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Okay, so last night after a lot of torching,
and muscle strain I managed to get the CTO out of the newer intake. Today I'm looking at hitting the stud that is still in the block with a grinder and die and see if I still have enough of the shank left to use w/o having to remove that stud.
Last night I opened up the box with the new manifold gasket. It has 4 different gaskets inside... an intake/exhasut combo gasket (1pc), an intake felt like gasket (blue), a gasket for the block off plate and the exhasut mani to downpipe(?) silicone gasket. When I removed the manifolds from the block, the only gasket that was on there was the smaller one for the intake (blue). The 5 line instructions
only tell me to put the metal mesh side of the combo gasket against the manifold. Does the blue one go against the block or between the metal side of the combo gasket and intake manifold? Anyone free tomorrow around 3:30? It'll be above freezing!! 
[img alt=Fel-Pro MS90949 - Fel-Pro Exhaust Manifold Gaskets]http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/375/375-MS90949.jpg[/img]
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