Problems bleeding my brakes on the JKU

    A couple weeks ago we had a front caliper seize up on the JKU - fast forward to today and I started swapping parts. I determined it was the caliper and not the hose because I couldn't get the caliper to compress at all whereas the passenger side compressed easily with a C clamp. So I only changed the caliper and not the hose, both rotors on the front, and new pads with new metal sliders. Waited for Erica to get home and then we bled the brakes together. Except I'm having a tough time getting the pedal solid. I've bled a billion brakes before with Erica and we have it down pat but this is the first time on a vehicle with ABS and a module that may have gotten air in it. I gravity bled it for a while and then bled by pumping the pedal and holding while cracking loose, tightening back up, then letting up on the pedal. I've done the passenger side as well even though they appear to have individual brake lines due to the ABS...but I'm not getting air out the bleeders anywhere.


    Anyone had this issue? Do I need to bring it to the dealer for an ABS bleed/flush? There are conflicting stories online about whether it's needed or not.

    Probably have air in the abs pump. If you know someone with a fancy Snap On Scan tool you can function the abs pump and then re-bleed them until the air is out. The dealer should be able to do it also. Ive done several Chebby trucks that have had the same issue. Pedal always feel spongy afterward. Im assuming you have the same issue. Some say that if you run down a dirt road and do some hard braking you can trick that abs pump into functioning and then re-bleed them. Recently did this with my dads truck, it seemed to help.

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
    2000 Cherokee Police package, Beater....


    I may be slowest and the stupidest

    Like 1

    Got the ABS pump bled at a local Jeep dealer. In typical fashion, they tried to tell me I need my front brakes replaced - new pads and rotors. This was miraculous seeing how I had installed brand new pads, rotors, and one caliper not even 16 hours earlier. It's so sad how dealers can continually perpetuate the stigma of lying about stuff being bad on a vehicle. I mean the parts were still shiny silver yet the person stood there and insisted the parts were worn and needed changing.


    Chris (has yet one more place he can't return to after making a scene...)

    Quote from quadna

    Got the ABS pump bled at a local Jeep dealer. In typical fashion, they tried to tell me I need my front brakes replaced - new pads and rotors. This was miraculous seeing how I had installed brand new pads, rotors, and one caliper not even 16 hours earlier. It's so sad how dealers can continually perpetuate the stigma of lying about stuff being bad on a vehicle. I mean the parts were still shiny silver yet the person stood there and insisted the parts were worn and needed changing.


    Chris (has yet one more place he can't return to after making a scene...)

    IMO this requires posting the shop by name and a phone call to the BBB. That is very deceitful. Hopefully you created a scene loud enough for other customers to hear.

    Quote from shadyluke

    IMO this requires posting the shop by name and a phone call to the BBB. That is very deceitful. Hopefully you created a scene loud enough for other customers to hear.

    My bet is Newark Jeep? They tried to screw me over once.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

    That really takes it to a whole other level. Considering that someone there knew why you needed service and what for, it really shows how stupid people can be. Or maybe they thought you were totally stupid. I would have caused a scene also, I don't like when people lie to me.
    As a result, I do all my own mechanical work, at least I know the idiot who did the work when it breaks and what kind of a Jerry-rig it actually is!
    They should have told you they also found a bad hydroscilator or the muffler bearings were going out, definitely not that the brand new brakes were beat. These youngsters need to learn to think out of the box a little bit more if they are going to try to rip off today's educated consumers.

    To be fair, it was some time ago... It was a chronic issue with my XJ brakes, warping rotors and a bad caliper, rears would not self adjust. After multiple visits, they would just cut the rotors adjust the brakes. 2k later the issue was back. So 500 miles past warranty (2000 miles after the last fix) they replaced calipers, rotors and rear drum parts, and promptly charged me $1200. Took me 2 hours arguing and threatening BBB and a lawsuit to get them to cover the repairs they should have done after the 3rd or 4 visit.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

    glad i read this....im getting to replace the front brake lines (longer stainless). im at 90+ so i figure its a good time to finally extend them and ditch the relocation bracket/zip ties. (along with new pads/rotors)


    ive been holding off since my check engine light is back on, and may be on my way to a 3rd replacement head....if not for Chrysler extending my warranty again. my JKU would be in a ditch.

    I had the same type of problem with my 05 Chevy truck. The ABS module has to be actuated to get the air pasted it. You can do this by hitting your brakes hard enough to make the pedal "pump" If you don't have enough pressure ( Because of the air in the system) to do this on a hard surface, try hitting them on gravel or wet grass. Then go ahead and bleed as normal.
    The dealer has a tool they plug in to actuated the system if you want to pay them.

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