Anyone got a 3/4" drill bit and drill that I could use to drill out my knuckle for my tie rod flip? An added bonus would be the fact that you can weld so you could weld the solid steel bushing in the knuckle afterwards.....
3/4" drill bit and welder?
-
-
I could do it tonight betwen 530 and 630.
-
Josh, since you are welding cast to steel you will need it to be stick welded with a high nickle content rod..you will alos need to preheat the knuckle a little..
-
Quote from "Meeper"
Josh, since you are welding cast to steel you will need it to be stick welded with a high nickle content rod..you will alos need to preheat the knuckle a little..
Actually since the knuckle is cast _steel_ and not cast _iron_ MIG will work just fine with no preheating necessary and, in fact, is a common mfg process....
--Ian
-
-
Hmm, thats funny, because when mig was done on mine the first time i went to nock out the TRE the insert came with it.. when it was sticked on i havent had an issue, thats just my cenario...
-
SOunds like who ever welded it either didnt have enough heat or didn't prep the surface properly(ie clean it with degreaser as you have greasy tie-rod ends) I have done 6 with 0 problems and they woudl be discovered rather quickly. When welding cast steel, the only thing you need to worry about is heat control as it is very easy to deform the cast piece. THat is why welding the spacers on the WJ conversion is such a pain.
-
turtle I pmd you
-
I have a ¾" drill bit you can borrow. Just keep it oiled while cutting.
-
I am still alive
that is all the proof you need of Turtle's welding knowledge and skill -
Quote from "Meeper"
Hmm, thats funny, because when mig was done on mine the first time i went to nock out the TRE the insert came with it.. when it was sticked on i havent had an issue, thats just my cenario...
Well "that's funny" because as Turtle said it sounds like the person that welded yours the first time needs some practice. If you choose not to believe me then how about an excerpt from the American Welding Society's certification manual??
<BEGIN SNIP>
Cast SteelMany castings are made from steel, rather than cast iron, in order to arrive at finished parts which have high shock resistance and good ductility, properties in which cast iron is generally deficient. Cast steel can often be distinguished from cast iron by its surface color. The ”gray” color of steel is so distinctive that the term ”steely” is often used to describe the color of other materials. When surface identification isn’t possible, the color of a freshly fractured surface will distinguish cast steel from cast iron. If necessary, use a cold chisel on the surface of the casting, and attempt to cut off a thin chip. From steel, you can cut a curling chip of some length; from cast iron, even a short continuous chip is unusual. Finally, the behavior of the two materials when raised to melting temperature by the torch flame is quite different. The steel appears to be nearly white-hot before it melts; cast iron starts melting at a red heat. A puddle of molten steel is straw-white in color; a puddle of cast iron is reddish-white. Most cast steels are similar to low-carbon or medium-carbon rolled steels in composition, and can be welded with ease. In fact, the welding of rolled (wrought) steel to steel castings is often a production application. When welding cast iron, the major problem is to avoid cracking the cast iron, or leaving it with locked-in stresses that might cause cracking in service. When welding cast steel, you normally need not worry about cracking, but you must be concerned about distortion, since steel will stretch – become permanently elongated – before it will break. Distortion can often destroy the utility of a casting just as completely as cracking.
<END SNIP> -
Hey!!!
no need to get snippy
-
yea.. this is a pretty HEATED debate..
-
Quote from "Elff"
Hey!!!
no need to get snippy
dude no doubt, im not tryin to put anyones skils down, just what the welding shop said, anything cast needs high knickle rod no matter what kind of metal because cast is brittle...
-
I think you missed my pun
-
My brother in law used to be a welder before an accident. He once told me that cast was a real pain to weld.
I missed that pun too. Now that you pointed it out it's pretty good.
-
Quote from "Elff"
I think you missed my pun
Most likely, im pretty slow and stupid....
-
I have been in steel fabrication for 35 years. Cast steel and cast iron are 2 different animals. Yes- cast iron would require pre and post heating, as well as high nickel content electrode or bronze alloy welds. I have welded a lot of cast iron.
Cast steel can be worked pretty much the same as carbon steels. You can cut it with a torch. Cast iron you cannot. I have used good old LH70 (low hydrogen) on cast steel with no cracking problems. We used to cut and bend, then reweld the head casting on HD motorcycles to alter the rake. I personally did mine and rode it for 10 years with no cracking or failure.
If you had an issue with something coming apart, then either the piece that was welded in was a dissimilar metal, such as stainless, without using the proper electrode, or as brought up previously- poor prep, or someone didn't know what they were doing.
As far as spindles/steering knuckles go, they are either forged or cast steel- depending on manfacturer. Cast iron would not hold up to the stresses this part is subject to. -
Quote from "Elff"
I think you missed my pun
at least SOME of us caught it...
-
Quote from "Meeper"
Most likely, im pretty slow and stupid....not really.
not now.
not ever.
not going to happen.
Participate now!
Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!