building up my 03 wrangler

  • new to the form :wavey: some background info i have a silver 03 wrangler x auto I6 it happens to be my first car unfortunantly still waiting to get my permit. its basically stock except 265/75/15 cooper discovery ATs, a light bar, chrome push bar and rear nerf bumper.

    i plan buy and to install the Rough country series II 4 inch
    35's if i can but dont want any body lift
    got a deal lined up to get side steps for $50
    would like to find a factory bumper to replace the push bar (i don't like the chrome)
    and eventually get a d44 with 4.88 gearing if i get 35's


    wat do you guys think this will be my daily driver and only occasionally will it go offroad (just trail riding ) im trying to learn all i can so i dont spend a whole lot building my jeep and not ending up liking it. i want any suggestions

  • If it's only going to be a DD and occasionally offroad, I'd go budget boost with 33's and call it done. Maybe some skid plates but much more then that you'd be wasting your money. To do 35's right, you need much more then just a lift and bigger tires. If I had it to do all over again, I'd stick to a budget boost, 1" body lift, 33's and some good shocks (OME). Leave it right there. Much more then that and you'll find out quick that you won't like driving it every day.


    Ask anyone here who has put all the money into 35's or 37's just to return to 33's in the long run.


    Just my $.02

    Former V.P. (2006-2007)
    V.P. of Jeeps for Joy (2004-2010)
    President of Jeeps for Joy (2010-2012)
    Beater Build Winning Driver (2009)

  • i understand that it be a waste but its something i would like to waste it on. i've seen the set up done before and with the series II lift i can get it for under $500, plus its 2 inches more than the BB and a suspension lift for a couple hundred buck more. easy descion there. i also want my jeep to be unique, not many people have this setup

  • Honestly it's because Rough Country lifts are junk. What I'm getting at, is that once you go to 35's and 4" lift you NEED an SYE, gears, adjustable upper and lower control arms, track bars, tires, rims, if you offroad much at all you'll want that 44 and gears and then you've just sunk $3500 or more into it if you can install all that yourself. If not, your easily into $5000 or more. After all that, if you decide to sell it you'll sell it for less then a stock jeep.


    I'm not telling you what to do, but you asked for opinions, so I'm just telling you what most of us have found out the hard way.


    You also said you wanted to know if you would spend all that and end up not liking it. I can guarantee, as many others can attest to also, you won't like it as a daily driver.


    Later :doh:

    Former V.P. (2006-2007)
    V.P. of Jeeps for Joy (2004-2010)
    President of Jeeps for Joy (2010-2012)
    Beater Build Winning Driver (2009)

    Edited once, last by Wolverine ().

  • a cheap 4" lift is going to ride horribly. Be prepared for a pretty firm (harsh) ride, especially on rough roads (pot holes, speedbumps, whatever). I also suggest sticking with 33s, they are bigger than most people expect.


    I'm not sure what you mean with "unique", there are a ton of Jeeps out there with 4" lifts and 35" tires. I'm not trying to bust on you, just not sure what you meant.


    Rough Country is probably the most replaced lift kit in the Jeep world. They are known for the extremely harsh ride quality, one customer of mine said it rode like a tank. :)

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

  • dont get me wrong i appreciate all the opinions, just making it clear i want the jeep to look big since unfortunantly even stock it wont be fast without an engine swap. since i joined the forum to hear from local guys what do you recomend over the rough country lift remember i want to stay away from the body lift :up:

  • I can't comment about the RC lift , I have no experience with them . Only know what I have read .
    Sounds like you will at the very least need to invest in decent shocks after you install the lift .
    Why no body lift ? If you ever decide to install a Tummy tuck you would most likely need it anyway .


    IMO run a BB and a body lift with 33's and save for a real lift . Do some more research the decide


    Here is what a RE 3.5 and a JKS B/L looks like with 33's FWIW .

  • I have some axles already geared and locked ready to be thrown into a TJ... Would be perfect for 35s. Will save you the hassle of buying gears, install kits, lockers, and paying someone to put them all in.

    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.<br />-Frederic Bastiat

  • I would also say do a 1" BL and a budget boost with 33's... The BL doesn't look bad... you can't even tell, particularly if you do an after market bumper. I am running a 3.5" RE lift and 1.25" BL... about what you were looking to do.
    You can check my pics in the gallery...


    A buddy of mine went 35's and it was one step too far... He ended up selling his ride as a result... He sank a ton into new gears, lift, flares... on and on and was unhappy at the end. As a DD I think that would be the wrong move..

  • heres a picture of a jeep with a 4" lift and 35"s.



    how does that look to you, is that the look your going for?


    1997 TJ 4 banger 5 speed, 4.88&#039;s, detroit tru track in the front d30, RE 3.5,OME shocks, JKS 1.25&quot; BL, 33&quot; BFG A/T&#039;s, Llama bumpers tire carrier, Hi lift

  • Take a look at 3 stages of my jeep.


    A) Stock on 31's - Went anywhere other than basically high blues and blacks at RC. Otherwise it did everything I wanted it to do and drove like, well, stock. I decided RC was what I wanted, so I went to the next stage.



    B) 2" BB + 1.25" BL with 33's and stock gears - Went damn near anywhere I pointed it, including "blacks" at RC. The driver was usually the limiting factor. Still drove real well and no issues being my DD.



    C) Clayton 4" LA + 1.25" BL with 35's and 4.88's - The big jump. There is no doubt, the driver is about the only limiting factor now. :innocent: It goes anywhere I want, and it drives better than stock. Yes, believe it because it is still my DD and make the 500+ mile round-trip to NY often. You get what you pay for, just don't ask me about the installation because that is a whole different can of worms. If you are going big, like 35's or 37's, then skip all the short arm steps and save for a long arm. Clayton, Nth Degree, Rubicon Express, all make great lifts but it is a long and expensive parts list.



    So, to recap, I wasn't satisfied with "A" so I quickly went to "B". That was the cost of a BB, BL, MML, Tires, and Rims. Probably about $1,600 total into it at this point neglecting the skid plates and buying used tires. When you go from "B" to "C", I am not going to say how much I have into it, but I will say it is more than $5,000 above and beyond what "B" cost me. Think long and hard before you do it. If you carry out your plan, you are going to be just another, in a very long line of posters asking "Why does my jeep vibrate?", "Why does it ride so harsh?", "I keep busting [insert one of many parts here], how do I stop it from happening?", "My jeep has no power, what can I do?", "I only get 12 mpg, why?", and the list goes on. The answer to every single one of those involves spending more money. If you are going to disregard all the good advice already given by folks that have been through this, then please, don't waste anyone's time asking then not listening, or subsequently asking how to fix it...


    Really, all I am saying, as have others, is to not kid yourself about this project. If you even have to consider money, forget 4" or bigger for now. Do the BB + BL with 33's and call it a day. Your rig will look good, drive well, be reliable, and you will get a chance to learn how to drive it before you decide the next step.

  • to do 35's correctly and not "hate" the jeep here is a parts and approxamate cost break down, not including installation


    4-6 long arm lift kit $2800 (includes springs shocks control arms and track bars)
    sye $300
    rear drive shaft $300
    rims/tires- $1200 if new, $800 used
    gears $175 per axle, so you will need two
    install kits for the gears $90 per axle, so two
    depending on what gears are in the jeep now, you will need carriers, figure $ 225 per for open, $500+ per for lockers
    steering dampner $40
    brake lines $90


    that is all keeping what is on the jeep now. If you want to do axles on top of it, add $1500 absolute minimum.


    Just giving you an idea of what you are getting your self into.


    this is not just my personal opinion, this is over 4 and 1/2 years working in the aftermarket jeep world.


  • thats exactly what im looking for could you tell me the specs on it

  • first off, welcome to the forum. :wavey: there are a lot of great people here. and a lot of knowledgeable and experienced people who can offer great advice.


    which brings me to my second point. please don't take offense - everyone here is trying to help, but you don't seem to be listening. you've seemingly come here for suggestions, yet it appears that you already have your mind made up. you stated that this project was something that you'd be willing to 'waste' money on, but that your budget isn't all that great. as with many things, in the world of jeep mods, 'doing it right' and 'doing it cheap' are mutually exclusive.


    the costs of going bigger are exponential. what i mean by this is that bigger costs money, and a little bigger than that costs a LOT more money.


    if money is no object, then go for it. otherwise, reread Artie's post:


    if you are not ready to spend five grand or more not including installation, then heed this wise advice:


    Really, all I am saying, as have others, is to not kid yourself about this project. If you even have to consider money, forget 4" or bigger for now. Do the BB + BL with 33's and call it a day. Your rig will look good, drive well, be reliable, and you will get a chance to learn how to drive it before you decide the next step.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

  • i dont know how much more we can drive the point home... once you try and fit 35's under your jeep the price shoots up exponentially... if you dont like to say you have a "budget boost" as a lift kit, get new 2" springs, or invest in a 3" kit. here is the one i was looking at, but decided to start small first.
    http://www.quadratec.com/products/16064_41X_PG.htm
    that kit has everything you need minus shocks.


    i have 32/11.5 under mine with only a 2" lift... and the stance in mean/functional.
    trust me. you will have plenty of fun with 33's at a fair price.

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