needed: taper reamer for OTK

    i'm going over-the-knuckle. i already have the shims to eliminate the bottom taper. i need a taper reamer for the top, and i don't want to buy one for a single-double use. does anyone have one that i can borrow (or buy real cheap?)







    edit, note to mods: i gave consideration as to whether this post should go in the 'swap meet' forum, but i hope/expect that this thread might elicit some tech discussion, so i decided it would be better here. feel free to move this topic if you think it belongs elsewhere.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Edited once, last by altierior ().

    i haven't started the project yet, so i still have time to reconsider and instead use the GoFerIt method.


    opinions, input, advice?

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Edited once, last by altierior ().

    I'd push you towards the GoFerit just because you are already shimming the bottom taper so drilling the 3/4" hole and just welding a sleeve in just seems easier and stronger. The two GoFerit I've done worked great.


    BTW, it is a GREAT mod whichever direction you decide. Coupled with the Currie, I don't worry much about my tie-rod anymore.
    I don't have a comparison shot but look how much higher the TR is in this pic.


    Make sure you take your time and weld it good. The one I put in worked loose and now the fucking tierod end wont come out of the sleeve :bang: thank god I dont drive it on the road!


    Hey Bill is your trackbar to long for your set up? It looks outta whack, but yet it resembles the driver :P

    Quote from J-Man


    Make sure you take your time and weld it good. The one I put in worked loose.


    Sounds like a short circuit in the welder....ie. you. ;D Actually it sounds like you drilled the hole to large. Mine had to be tapped down in the knuckle with a rubber mallet. Mine were MIG welded but I think TIG would be better.


    Quote from J-Man


    Hey Bill is your trackbar to long for your set up? It looks outta whack, but yet it resembles the driver :P


    It may look different because of the dropped bracket and upper brace. The bends do make it hang a little lower at the axle but not so much since I raised the suspension a little more.

    I have a reemer, you break it, $80. I will have it at the meeting and can bring it to RC this weekend. I want it sharpened after used. They are not cheap which is why I am asking for this if you want to use it.


    Personally, if I am going to go throught the trouble of reaming shit out and all, I would just go ahead and get one-ton ends and make a new TR and DL. Would be way better then anything else you are going to be able to conjour up. Plus you would still be able to go over knuckle, but without needing shims ot anything like that.

    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.<br />-Frederic Bastiat

    Quote from TheMistaken


    I have a reemer, you break it, $80. I will have it at the meeting and can bring it to RC this weekend. I want it sharpened after used. They are not cheap which is why I am asking for this if you want to use it.


    i understand and i appreciate the offer. you mean next weekend at RC, right? that'll give me a little time to decide which avenue i'm taking...

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    I have four different ones from when I use to race. Yes the weekend of the 17th. If i don't end up going, i could always just USPS it to you. Wouldn't be more then 5 bucks plat rate.


    The go-ferit set-up is nice and easy though. You reem a hole too hard and it could be potentially screwed.

    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.<br />-Frederic Bastiat

    ok, question for you guys who have done the go-fer-its.


    i've been doing some forum research, and there seems to be a lot of concern about having to replace the crown nut with the spiral lock flanged nut. i can't say i'm entirely comfortable with that, either. some guys have figured out workarounds so they could still use the crown nuts.


    what have you guys done?

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Edited once, last by altierior ().

    Quote from altierior


    ok, question for you guys who have done the go-fer-its.


    i've been doing some forum research, and seems that is a lot of concern about having to replace the crown nut with the spiral lock flanged nut. i can't say i'm entirely comfortable with that. some guys have figured out workarounds so they could still use the crown nuts.


    what have you guys done?


    Quote from J-Man


    i ground the bottom of the knuckle enough to get the factory nut and cotter pin back on. it dont take much.

    Quote from clendaniel


    x2...little off the top and bottom and I was good on my old d30.


    alright, good. that's what i wanted to hear. that's one of the workarounds of which i mention.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    alright fellers. did the OTK today. a few weeks ago, a buddy of mine from another club lent me his taper reamer. i also bought the goferits.


    no use asking for advice if you're not gonna listen, right? so i went ahead with the goferits. as was suggested, i did some grinding on the top and bottom, which worked out fine for keeping the castle nut.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Quote from quadna


    how does your swaybar bracket clearance look like? seemed to me like it would be very close when you flip it - do you need to relocate it?


    both the swaybar brackets AND the trackbar bracket interfered with the relocated tie-rod. i had to grind the swaybar brackets and trackbar bracket from the axle. we used this kit to relocate the trackbar: http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/m…M999&Category_Code=BP-B_S.


    we started running out of time, so i didn't weld on new swaybar brackets. i'll probably do that next week. i bought both of these sets:
    http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/m…M-UV&Category_Code=BP-B_S
    and http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merc…e=SWYBR&Category_Code=DPL
    i haven't yet decided which to use.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Quote from quadna


    how does your swaybar bracket clearance look like? seemed to me like it would be very close when you flip it - do you need to relocate it?


    I had to grind a bit off of the drivers side bracket to fit the Currie tie rod because of the extra thickness. It wasn't enough to affect the strength though.
    The track bar bracket wasn't an issue for me.

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