And thanks to Ian for helping Ed and I figure out how get the tube out, sawzall + relief cut are your friends. That was after we both independently considered how to get the band saw blade in there, idiots... 
We started with the 20 ton press and that didn't even begin to budge it...
still have the rubi flares and the black steelies for sale?
still have the rubi flares and the black steelies for sale?
Flares are gone, but the wheels will be available soon. Still on the Jeep right now...
what are your plans for ebrakes for inspection?
what are your plans for ebrakes for inspection?
They don't check e-brake in DE.
Personally I plan on eventually plumbing in a wilwood master inline for now...not perfect as it's still hydro but better than what I've got now 
--Ian
lucky
In Pa the options are
stay drums in the rear.....
cadi disks in the rear....
K20 calipers in the rear with a crazy expensive d300 disk conversion.....
Fab up the entire rear brake assemblies out of a newer ford with rear disks and drum in hat ebrakes...
That is in sequence from easy/cheap to hard and expensive 
In DE you only have to get out of the vehicle for 2 minutes while the plug into the OBDII. They never look for anything beyond that.
On another note, since I have had next to no time recently with everything going on. The axles are up at Aaron's for gear install. Then we will weld on the front LCAs and start the install shortly after.
Looks Good! 
yeah real good
Looking good! Only thing I'd work on is the geometry in that front end...coming from experience the difference you have in the trackbar and draglink angle is gonna have noticeable bumpsteer on the street. I lived with it on mine for awhile but it's soooo much nicer when it's corrected. It looks like you've got room to flip the TRE at the pitman to come in from the top and possibly even run a flatter arm...that might get you enough to be parallel.
What'd you and aaron do about the front LCA mounts? Last I heard from Ed there was some issue about them being too tight for the joint and/or the bolt? Replace them or mod?
--Ian
Looking good! Only thing I'd work on is the geometry in that front end...coming from experience the difference you have in the trackbar and draglink angle is gonna have noticeable bump steer on the street. I lived with it on mine for awhile but it's soooo much nicer when it's corrected. It looks like you've got room to flip the TRE at the pitman to come in from the top and possibly even run a flatter arm...that might get you enough to be parallel.
What'd you and Aaron do about the front LCA mounts? Last I heard from Ed there was some issue about them being too tight for the joint and/or the bolt? Replace them or mod?
--Ian
Right now I start to make a left turn each time I accelerate. Not bad though, predictable & liveable until we get it 100%.
I think on the drag link I will run a Waggy arm then since they are the 30 degree heims from WFO, I could flip it on top. I think there is room. Or I could replace the tie rod end, go with the K setup like you have, and ditch the hi-steer arm altogether. Gotta weigh my options and decide. Either route is fairly easy to do, just have to check clearances to run Waggy arm & flipped link.
As for the LCA mounts, it worked out perfect! Aaron had some brackets (that were exactly what I needed and thought the original Ballistics were) which gave us about 1/2" clearance over even the Clayton brackets (about 1" over the Ballistic) and we squeezed them it to the Clayton recommended width range. The suspension geometry is nearly identical to what I had with the D44's. Only had to adjust the front upper CA's to get the caster and pinion angle set. Everything else was good or at least works for now.
Also need to figure out how to better secure the rear springs. They can't drop out, but there is some play on the retainer so they are noisy. Looking into that and will probably just adjust the retainer height or angle to lock them in versus trying to modify or add to the seat.
Biggest issue is that the Warn hubs do not fit right. First part is that the stub shafts are generic and about 0.5" longer than Ford specs so they rub on the outside. Can either use carrier bearing race to space it out or grind off the end and leave just enough for inner retainer clip to still work. Then the Warns have some extra material on the outside which doesn't allow the outer retainer to be seated and if you did, you would never get it out. I may just say f' it and go with the Poly Performance drive slug.
Right now I start to make a left turn each time I accelerate. Not bad though, predictable & liveable until we get it 100%.
Just watch it...I know of a couple times where a bump, corner, and unexpected on-off throttle maneuver made for a little pucker as the Jeep swerved itself. A detroit in the rear of mine doesn't help, though, either. ;D
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I think on the drag link I will run a Waggy arm then since they are the 30 degree heims from WFO, I could flip it on top. I think there is room. Or I could replace the tie rod end, go with the K setup like you have, and ditch the hi-steer arm altogether. Gotta weigh my options and decide. Either route is fairly easy to do, just have to check clearances to run Waggy arm & flipped link.
Looks like any combo of the above would work...I'm just a stubborn SOB and had decided that I wasn't willing to settle for less than full highsteer. Took some doing but it all fit in the end.
Quote
As for the LCA mounts, it worked out perfect! Aaron had some brackets (that were exactly what I needed and thought the original Ballistics were) which gave us about 1/2" clearance over even the Clayton brackets (about 1" over the Ballistic) and we squeezed them it to the Clayton recommended width range. The suspension geometry is nearly identical to what I had with the D44's. Only had to adjust the front upper CA's to get the caster and pinion angle set. Everything else was good or at least works for now.
Good to hear, was a little concerned.
Quote
Also need to figure out how to better secure the rear springs. They can't drop out, but there is some play on the retainer so they are noisy. Looking into that and will probably just adjust the retainer height or angle to lock them in versus trying to modify or add to the seat.
Noisy? Coil catching the retainer? Mine are just round discs sitting a bit off the spring but don't hit unless completely unloaded (in fact the upper will actually let the spring unseat a couple inches)
Quote
Biggest issue is that the Warn hubs do not fit right. First part is that the stub shafts are generic and about 0.5" longer than Ford specs so they rub on the outside. Can either use carrier bearing race to space it out or grind off the end and leave just enough for inner retainer clip to still work. Then the Warns have some extra material on the outside which doesn't allow the outer retainer to be seated and if you did, you would never get it out. I may just say f' it and go with the Poly Performance drive slug.
Eh, KISS IMHO and just run the slugs.
--Ian
I thought those rear springs were going to be noisy in that mounting configuration. and the steering looks pretty good considering the lack of sleep you were running on. That was a lot of work to get done in one weekend, and I was impressed to hear monday morning that it was driveable..
and every build day should end with beers at Iron Hill on Main st.
oh and one more thing.. get some paint on it.. haha
Don
Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. In case anyone doesn't know, Aaron and I installed these. Remember kids, axle swaps are 3 days work, not 2, regardless of the wishful thinking involved. This project was welding brackets and hours of axle cleanup with Ed a few weeks back, setting gears with Aaron 2 Sunday's ago, removing the D44's with Aaron and Don on Saturday, then a 9a Sunday - 8a Monday marathon in Aaron's shop to make it roll out the door. I can't thank everyone enough for their help, ideas, and mental fortitude. 
And no doubt every build day should end at Iron Hill! Somehow it made Sunday a little less painful...
Really, this project was somewhat like an all-weekend fab session before a race to get a rig ready. Pretty high pressure situation all in all which in my book, makes it even more respectable how well it turned out.
Looks good, should have said something, I would have come up after work on Sunday. I have a waggy arm at your house. It may be a reamed CJ but I think it is a waggy. Those ballistic brackets were the ones that I thought I still had before. Oh well. Sorry my time and life situation delayed it so much. Looks good though.
Def. looks good... I can't wait until my Heep transforms up to being full size tons like this!!!
Got the front end sorted out so time for some new "action" shots. Many will find this particular obstacle quite familiar. Needs a little trimming for clearance and some bump stop adjustment but all in all damn near perfect.
[img width=800 height=600]http://i212.photobucket.com/al…MG00174-20100804-1848.jpg[/img]
[img width=800 height=600]http://i212.photobucket.com/al…MG00175-20100804-1848.jpg[/img]
[img width=800 height=600]http://i212.photobucket.com/al…MG00173-20100804-1848.jpg[/img]
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