Replacing lower control arms

    The bushings need replacing on my 5-year-old Fabtech lower control arms (part of a 4" suspension lift kit). Hard to believe, but it's actually less expensive to purchase new LCAs from Skyjacker than to buy just the bushings from Fabtech. Shame on Fabtech! (I learned from Q-tec that Fabtech is sort of moving away from Jeeps and more toward trucks.) So, I bought four lower control arms from Q-tec yesterday. Also, I purchased new front OEM bushings for the front upper factory control arms.


    Question: The swap seems straightforward, but is there anything tricky that I need to know? Any tips? I'm particularly concerned about installing the front UCA bushings...I'm told that's harder that it seems. Thanks.

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    When I did the lower control arms on my wife's WJ I made the mistake of lifting the rear axle completely off the ground. So when I removed one of the control arms the axle shifted. Had to take a ratcheting strap to pull it back into position so I could get the control arm bolt back in.



    You may not need to jack yours up as high to slide underneath.



    It is a pretty straight forward swap; just remove a couple bolts is all. Hers had this washer with a point end on it that came around and sliced my finger pretty good. Not sure what the heck that washer was for. Sharp little bugger though.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

    How about the front upper control arm? I will just swap the bushings on them, but I understand there is some pressing involved on the axle end of the arms.


    I can easily slide under my TJ -- no worries there. So, unless there's a different reason for doing it, I will not jack up the TJ at all when swapping the LCAs.

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    yeah the bushings are difficult to press out and in. as for the control arms, just do one at a time, they are bound to shift as they are holding the axle centered, just gotta use leverage to line it up again.

    Quote from shadyluke


    The upper control arm bushings are on the axle. All i can say is good luck. I just had a miserable time doing mine. Check out Stu offroad. He has a good write up.


    I still have to do my wife's for that reason. They're sitting in her glove compartment right now.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

    Quote from shadyluke


    BTW, don't expect to use a ball joint press to get them out.


    I think I'll let the Dover Pep Boys do the swap for me. The mechanic there who looked at my TJ last week had a lot of offroad, lift kit experience. Sounds like the UCA bushings are more of a challenge than I want.


    When I was on the phone with Q-tec I did not even think about the length of the Skyjacker control arms compared to the Fabtech control arms. Neither is adjustable. The Q-tec rep knew I was replacing LCAs from a Fabtech 4" lift, but he didn't mention it. Did I screw up? If they are not the same length, am I in trouble?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    If your order isnt in I would recomend getting adjustables. I just did my lower fronts yesterday and went from a fixed procomp arm to an adjustable core4x4 arm. Instead of trying to match the length of the old arms go by the caster angle wich you can measure by using an angle finder on the flat top of the upper ball joint. You want to get near 5.5 degrees. To shift the axle you can use a floor jack on the pinion yoke or the track bar bracket depending on wich way your trying to roll the axle. You may need to roll the axle past where it will be mounted to line up the bolt holes and then roll it back to center. You may also want to disconect the front drive shaft dependin gon how much roll you need.

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